GP-100

JonB

Halcyon member
The 686 is not my only Ruger handgun. IMHO Ruger handguns are and should be regarded as kit guns They work and they are reliable. Inside of 30 yards the bullets see to fly where the barrel is pointed when called upon and it does it without complaint. If it didn't it would have been replaced years ago.

Take Care

Bob
Did you mean to say GP-100, instead of 686 ???
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
here to swerve things once again... LOL

anybody sayin you can't wear down a Ruger is more than welcome to come 'look at' my rattly 41 mag Blackhawk.
it still shoots those lyman wad cutters just fine though [I'm positive it's because they are long enough to align everything and keep it there] and it dotes on the Hornady 210gr. XTP being pushed along by Alliants 2400.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
here to swerve things once again... LOL

anybody sayin you can't wear down a Ruger is more than welcome to come 'look at' my rattly 41 mag Blackhawk.
it still shoots those lyman wad cutters just fine though [I'm positive it's because they are long enough to align everything and keep it there] and it dotes on the Hornady 210gr. XTP being pushed along by Alliants 2400.
Myself, then my brother, then his buddy shot a 1975 edition Ruger Super Black Hawk to a rattling hulk. I never before or since saw zig zag wear marks on the cylinder between the locking notches. It was my first center fire handgun and I got it back a few years ago. Ruger rebuilt it like new and put a 4 5/8" barrel on it at my request in place of the 7 1/2" for $175.00!!!!

I'll never wear it out in the rest of my life. There probably will never be another 22.0 grains of 2400 run through it again. Typically I run 8 1/2 or 9 grains of Unique through it now.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
yep 8.5grs of unique and 9.3grs are permanent settings on 2 of my 550 powder dumps.
the 8.5 makes the rounds between the 41-44-45 pretty regularly, and the 9.3 bounces between the 44 and 45 depending on my mood that day.
 

STIHL

Well-Known Member
I have contemplated a GP 100 and a super red hawk, I am a smith and Wesson guy I have loved them since I picked the first one up, but I want a GP100 to try as well. I have read this same type of thread many times and the trigger pull and culinder throats always come up with the rugers.

Last time I looked, a GP100 was around 650 maybe, been 2-3 years so it’s hard to remember exactly. When you look at the price difference it’s understandable, but as long as you know what your getting into and don’t mind a little work they can be made into excellent shooting guns. I still prefer my 586 and 686s, but it’s possible a ruger will find its way home one day just for the fact it’s a tank of a gun. No, the finish isn’t as nice as a smith, but it ain’t a smith. They both have their place and they both do what they were designed to do. I’ve see claims of smiths having 20-30 thousand rounds through them and no issues. I’ve got a 586 I bought 2nd handed and had no telling how many rounds through it at that point and I know I’ve put several thousand through it and it just keeps chugging along. I don’t beat it up though i shoot it and clean it and it gets carried through deer season as my backup trailing gun and that’s it’s life. Still eats 158XTPs in front of a pile of H110 and hasn’t any issue yet. Also like a 358-429 on top of a pile of H108 too.

I think it has as much to do with what you like and what is comfortable in the hand as it does the brand. Also what your intended use is, and what your going for with the gun itself.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
Anyone contemplating the wear-out of a Ruger revolver is taking on a long, tall contract. None of mine will be leaving.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Well STIHL . . . Two words . . . .

Freedom Arms.
A couple weeks ago I went to the local gun show, (which was a depressing trip), and in a moment of guilt over the purchase of a new trolling motor and the ordering of a new fish finder, took 4 handguns along to troll with. One is a FA Model 97 Premier in .45 Colt with the .45 acp cylinder with all of the original paper work and box with the long goofy lock FA included with a new gun. Before I left I went to FA's site and about fainted when I saw they now want 3 grand for just such a package. The acp cylinder is $511.00 if ordered after the gun is built, a steal at $399.00 if you order it with the gun. I do not know what their waiting period is these days.

The FA was another of those extravagances that I hardly ever used. Just a safe queen. The most accurate revolver safe queen I have ever seen, but hard to justify if a guy doesn't use it. A couple of guys wanted to paw it, I wouldn't let them cock the hammer. I don't trust people I don't know to run a SA.

The only gun that got any interest after the usual, "Hey, what you got there?" was the 586. I brought them all home. The depressing part of the gun show was all of the old guys who are missing in just two short years. The guys that have aged 10 years in two, the guys missing parts of ears and are skeletal remains on chemo etc. I shouldn't have gone.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Lots of mentions of the 586.

Coincidently, I sold my 4" 586 last month at the local gunshow (did I mention this already?)
I had bought it at a live Auction in 2015 for less than $500 OTD. I didn't even want to buy it, as this was after my own "down-sizing" Auction, where I sold a good portion of my gun collection...but $4xx was too good of a price for this 586, to pass up. It did have some holster wear and scratches on the cylinder (like it was dragged around on a sand covered table?), but mechanically it operated like a new gun. I've shot it several times and grew to like it.

When I brought it to the local gunshow last month, it wasn't my plan to sell it. Just brought it as table filler and to have some legit gun stuff on the table, to justify the garbage antiques I brought to actually sell at the show (like a old brass gasoline plumbers torch, vintage yellow safety glasses like N. Tesla would wear, and some old USA made scissors...all which sold, LOL).

Anyway, I priced the worn/scratched 586 at $950, which I thought was an outrageous price. I guess I should have priced it at $1050...then maybe the buyer wouldn't have bought it? During the negotiations, I held firm at $950, much to the chagrin of the young farmer's son who wanted it badly. He left and came back to the table several times during the negotiations. I surely would have given him a better price if I wanted to sell it. It was quite the ordeal, as he didn't have the $950 cash, but in the end, he scraped up the cash from Dad and his group of friends that were together at this show.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
You have to admire a guy that will spend too much for something you didn't want to sell .

Kind of did the same thing with an 03A3 Bubba Sporter . Nearly tripled my money after 3 years of really wanting to make it shoot . I had just set there for 3 more . I don't foresee me ever missing that one . Being older now and a little smarter I know why that 357 Taurus 66 S&W clone did what it did and I kind of do miss that one now . Funny how a .356 cut 357 will just not shoot well until you feed some bench junk .355 380 bullets and super plastic soft plated bullets ........ Yeah if I knew then ......

I won't give that for your pot metal , why won't you pay that for my platinum ?
The title song of the gun show .
 

Sevenfan

Member
Great read! My first revolver was a GP-100, purchased in 1987, which I still have today. From what I'm reading, it's probably not even broken in yet - LOL.

Added a Super Blackhawk in 44RM a couple years ago because it's been on my want list for a couple decades. I enjoy shooting it just as much as my GP-100.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
I talk a lot more on here about S&W and Colt roller-guns, but I DO ENJOY my Ruger revolvers greatly. Just two D/A's right now, the SP-101 eardrum drill in 327 Federal and the Redhawk in 44 Mag. There are five S/A wheelguns, all with 7.5" barrels for hunting, from 22 rimfire to 45 Colt. One of those--the 30 Carbine BH--is another eardrum drill. WTH izzit about 30-32 caliber handguns that makes them so stinkin' LOUD if given more-than-sedate velocities? Another in that series of mysteries from the dawn of time that lack an answer, or at least a reasonable short answer.

I have yet to corral a GP-100 of any description.
 
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Ben

Moderator
Staff member
I put a spring kit in my GP 100, 357 Mag.
I put in a trigger return spring and replaced the main spring.
A VERY smooth running machine now.

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dannyd

Well-Known Member
Add the shims to the trigger, hammer dog and hammer the difference will amaze you. Doing it to all 5 of mine plus two sp101’s.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Ben generously sent me some left over springs for my 101 that did wonders for the trigger pull. However the 327 Federal ammo just burned my ears even with plugs and muffs. It went done the road.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I generally avoid shimming the hammer on a GP-100 or SP101 because it makes removal and re-installation of the hammer more difficult. Not incredibly difficult, just a little more difficult. I do shim the trigger and hammer dog (DA sear); when they need it. Those jobs are “one time” jobs as you rarely, if ever, need to break those assemblies down after they have shims installed.

For years I have contemplated having shallow, circular countersink cuts placed on both sides of a GP-100 hammer. The countersink cuts would be centered on the hammer pin hole and would be wide enough to accommodate a shim on each side. This would require slightly thicker shims, but it would hold the shims in the correct location as the hammer was inserted into the frame.
 
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dannyd

Well-Known Member
I generally avoid shimming the hammer on a GP-100 or SP101 because it makes removal and re-installation of the hammer more difficult. Not incredibly difficult, just a little more difficult. I do shim the trigger and hammer dog (DA sear); when they need it. Those jobs are “one time” jobs as you rarely, if ever, need to break those assemblies down after they have shims installed.

For years I have contemplated having shallow, circular countersink cuts placed on both sides of a GP-100 hammer. The countersink cuts would be centered on the hammer pin hole and would be wide enough to accommodate a shim on each side. This would require slightly thicker shims, but it would hold the shims in the correct location as the hammer was inserted into the frame.
The 1989 GP100's the hammer is countersunk on both side; the newer ones I have are not. Also the first GP's don't have a hole in the backstrap to push the trigger plugger in, so its a little painful to push in.