Those DP (dog proof) traps are a great way to be species specific, when in either a rural or urban setting. However there are at least twelve versions of them on the market, and like bullet moulds, they aren't one size fits all. If you have domestic pets around, you want a model that is pull only trigger or set to be pull only. Some models have both, push and pull activated trigger positions, on the same triggers. Domestics can be caught in the push type setting. It's also a real good idea to avoid using fish, smoked meats, or cheese type attractants when domestics are around. Coon have a wide pallet and are just as easily caught with sweet, loud, berry type, attractants, which are less likely to be attractive to dogs and cats especially. Some trappers use Fruit Loops type cereals with success.
Also if you decide to use this type trap, you will also need to anchor it solid, so that the trapped coon can't reach any portion of your house or buildings, unless you are considering having your house re-sided soon!! Be very careful when handling live coon in cage traps, they are extremely strong and have dexterity in their front feet that exceeds humans. I've had them reach outside cages and slice my leather gloved hand while I was carrying a cage.
With spring coming up, the coon pups will be born in early May or June, and catching multiple pups in one cage is common. It is also common for a female coon to be in the near vicinity of those caged pups, and she will defend them often, especially in buildings with lots of junk around. Just be aware when approaching caged pups, or a pup and a female in a cage. Things can get lively with a mad female and thousands of dollars of farm machinery around. Relocating trapped animals, to another location, is illegal in most states. You could be transferring diseases to another location. Coon are a truly filthy animal, and carry many parasites, so it's a good idea to keep kids away from cages, denning areas, or coon feces.
With a little forethought, it is easy to dispatch caged coon without shooting holes in your traps. If you place a barrel of water large enough to submerge the whole trap in, near the area the cage is set, it's an easy clean manner in which to dispatch them by just submerging the whole trap. Another method is to make a plywood box at least a couple inches larger than the outside of the trap with no bottom on it. When you catch the coon, place the box over the trap, run a piece of flex pipe to a car, wheeler, or riding lawnmower then the other end of the flex pipe to the box. Let it run for 10-15 minutes.
If your having troubles with large coon disassembling your cage traps, your not alone. Most of the traps being sold in farm type stores are not real well built. If you need a really well built trap, your best bet is to get in contact with a trapper who attends trappers conventions, and would be willing to get you a better built trap there. There are conventions in most states, at least annually, and the traps sold there will not wear out, and are sold for the same price as those poorly made ones. Freight is a killer on cage traps, so a lot of manufactures attend the conventions with trailers full, to save the guys freight costs. If your looking for a trappers convention near you, PM me with your state and I can get you the info on your state convention, or a Furtakers of America or National Trapper Association national convention location.
creosote,
grind that knob to a point, to make a dandy toothpick.
