I like using the LEE 6 cavity molds, they work well enough and are fairly durable as well. I wouldn't rate them as great, but they are certainly good IMO.
The first generation lacked the present venting grooves, and honestly, they were not good at all. I ordered one online recently and it was so bad I contacted LEE and the online supplier. They sent me a newer generation one and all was good.
One of the good pluses of the mold is that they have an anodized aluminum sprue plate. I've read articles on sprue plates, and the consensus is that aluminum ones work better. The article came out a while back, before LEE began making the 6 cavity mold.
Another plus is the lever to operate the sprue plate. It does work slick.
On the minus side of leger is the fact that without a bit of blueprinting the molds tend to eat themselves. Following the instructions is a must, but I've found that just about all the LEE molds could use a few finishing details.
I own a few of these and since learning the blueprint details, I have very little galling or wear. I go through them, takes about 10 minutes and in addition to the LEE instructions I use some two-stroke oil to lightly coat some of the friction points. After casting about 50 to 100 bullets I look for any galling or friction points and correct those as well.
I have talked to some casters and most use them as they come. Had one caster tell me he just takes it out of the box and starts casting. My experience has been that a bit of attention is warranted. One "trick" to making the mold run better is to make the top of the mold surface a bit convex, IOW I slope the surface at the edges so the sprue plate "glides" across the cavities, and so the sprue plate is flat over the cavities. I doubt if I give it more than a thou of slope, as i generally use 600 to 800 grit emery on a steel backer. I then polish the top surface, The sprue plate gets very little attention, the anodized surface is thin. i just fell along the outer edges for high spots and file them or wack them with a polished smooth gunsmith hammer.
The 2 cavity molds are rubbish, the sprue plates are not flat, and are a very soft metal. the cutting edges are poorly finished and the surface that is supposed to glide across the top of the die is rough. I've tried to blueprint them, and I've had success, but haven't come across a method that works on all of them. I avoid them like COVID.
The sprue plate touches only over the cavities.
A friction point that needs a bit of oil. Sometimes the washer needs a bit of polishing.
This mold has cast about 1000 bullets, and should be good for thousands more.
