That's GREAT !!!!!!!Just wanted to add another "success story" using Ben's method.
I use a chucking reamer instead of a twist drill, as most of my twist drills are not really very nice ones. The reamers were both new, old-stock from eBay, and pretty inexpensive, so no big investment there.
I had previously done a few 30s and 35s this way, following the rest of of Ben's advice, but had recently bought a NOE 4C RDO 360-190 "clone" with two GC and two PB cavities. I only had to remove one GC rebate to get what I want. Last time, I had to remove three, so this one was easier on the nerves.
THIS TIME, I used the reamer with no lube, because I had a devil of a time getting ALL the oil (or something) out of it when I cleaned it initially and didn't want to stop and do it again - I needed to take advantage of a small window of opportunity to get some bullets cast.
It turned out perfectly without lubing the reamer. I not only can't tell one PB cavity from the other, but I surely can't tell one PB bullet from the other once I cast some up. Just have to be sure to keep the reamer moving (by hand) going in and coming out and it leaves no ugly marks. It took about three quarters of a turn as I lowered and then raised the quill.
This idea was a HUGE help, because I've had terrible luck finding exactly what I've wanted from NOE for a long time. I like their moulds, but felt deprived. I've bought two NOEs now that weren't exactly what I wanted, and for a very small investment of tooling, and a little setup time, I have what I really want. This also helped me make my favorite "squirrel bullet" for the 30-30 from a LEE C309-113, which now is a plain-base and weighs 118 grains.
Glad it worked well for you.
Ben