Since I was making a couple today I decided to takes some photos.
I start with a piece of 5/8 O1 steel.
It is chucked up in the 4 jaw close to center and trued.
First step is cutting the nose to a diameter based on the caliber it is being made for. I like to go about .040 to .060 over caliber. This one was on the smaller side. Not a critical dimension.
Sorry for the bad photo.
Next up is cutting the taper that actually expands the check. This is cut at an angle based on caliber. Seems 30 cal likes a little less angle than larger or smaller.
On this one I have also cut the groove that lets it fit in the press ram. Groove is .125 wide. I also have reduced the port in below the groove to .557 to fit the ram.
Next up is knurling the part. This makes it far easier to get in and out of the ram. It also helps me justify a 190 dollar tool to my wife!
Next I use a magnetic base and dial indicator to move the parting tool to leave a .125 base. This is after I started the cut.
I was cutting the part off at this point but decided this was a great time to bevel some edges. By starting the parting off then bevelng I can get a bevel of the bottom too. This makes it easier than filing a bevel like I was doing.
I start with a piece of 5/8 O1 steel.
It is chucked up in the 4 jaw close to center and trued.
First step is cutting the nose to a diameter based on the caliber it is being made for. I like to go about .040 to .060 over caliber. This one was on the smaller side. Not a critical dimension.
Sorry for the bad photo.
Next up is cutting the taper that actually expands the check. This is cut at an angle based on caliber. Seems 30 cal likes a little less angle than larger or smaller.
On this one I have also cut the groove that lets it fit in the press ram. Groove is .125 wide. I also have reduced the port in below the groove to .557 to fit the ram.
Next up is knurling the part. This makes it far easier to get in and out of the ram. It also helps me justify a 190 dollar tool to my wife!
Next I use a magnetic base and dial indicator to move the parting tool to leave a .125 base. This is after I started the cut.
I was cutting the part off at this point but decided this was a great time to bevel some edges. By starting the parting off then bevelng I can get a bevel of the bottom too. This makes it easier than filing a bevel like I was doing.