My first attempt at plain basing!

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Well on the encouragement of Ben, I bought some 8 mm drill bits and started on the adventure of Plain basing some of my 8 mm moulds.

Ben is a great teacher and he gives you good information to get you on track. On his advise I bought a 8.25 mm drill bit that he felt would work on my NOE 325-180 Ranch Dog mould. I also ordered a 8.30 mm drill bit to open up a Lee mould.

The time had come and I was nervous at first and spent the first evening going over in my head the steps as well as checking all the numbers from my cast boolits with my normal alloy.

I decided for the fist time up I would try it out on my $17.50 Lee 175 grain mould ...but then I remembered I sold that but I did have a Lee 329-205 mould. Now at .329" it was a bit large for my 8.30mm drill bit which is .3265" but since I size to .326" I felt it would all come together in the sizer (& I was correct in the end )

The actual drilling was done in a blink of an eye....but the setup took awhile (just wanted to be sure).

Squaring up the mould and the bit took some time but my biggest challenge was how to be sure I was centered in the center of the hole in the mould. I wasn't sure the drill bit would center in the hole even with the vise loosened from the drill press table because the mould was aluminum. (If it were steel I could have easily brought the bit down to the hole and the tip of the bit would center the mould relative to the bit) but In the aluminum I was sure it may just give a little since it is so much softer then the bit. So what i did was put in a 82 deg countersink into the chuck, bring it down into the opening with the vise loosed from the drill table and it did the trick ( helped it ever so slightly by my hand to feel it center).

I then reinstalled the drill bit. Cut the gas check shank of in 2 seconds and used Ben's stick polishing trick to finish it up.

Looked good so I fired up my pot and cast up about 40 pieces to see if i did it. The boolits dropped easily from the mould. They had the faint trace of a gas check line as dropped ( because the bit was not .329") however I sized them up and they came out perfect! They now weigh in at 213.5 grain on average.

New213Gr%20PB%20Lee%20Boolit.jpg


Now I always let my fresh cast boolits age 3 to 4 weeks before shooting but I was too excited so I loaded 25 up last night using 2 powders: I decided on 8,9, & 10 grains Unique and 8&9 grains Red Dot.

213'PB%20wil%208%20gr%20Unique.jpg


The targets below were shot this morning at 50 yds with my GEW98

Redfield receiver sights and Lyman 17a Globe front with a Lee Shaver aperture disk.

9unique.jpg



10unique.jpg



8reddot.jpg



PlainBasedLee205shot.jpg


The laser paper targets got ripped up badly with these round nose boolits but I measured the groups from the card board backer board. All are 5 shot groups; all at about an inch center to center!

I'm pretty happy with my new plain base boolit . I sure like to thank Ben for giving me the incentive to give it a try.
Now on to the Ranch Dog!

Jim
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I sure hope you aren't gonna complain about those results.
Nicely done and they seem to shoot well too.
I like the spent bullet. Nose bent on impact and expanded but no signs of brittleness.

Are the little nicks in the base from minor gas cutting or from impact as the bullet goes sideways in the berm? Looking at it again that looks like impact damage from the berm.

Well done JW
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Brad,
Our berms are course sands and fly ash. Sometimes the boolits are found up to a foot right or left of the impact zone.
Normally my alloy cures out at bhn 10-11; but since this was only cast Thursday evening I would imagine it may only be 9 so it is pretty soft &
I even experienced a little bit of leading also which I never had before with my fully cured boolits.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I too have been bit by the "new bullet" syndrome. Give them another couple weeks and they will be fine.

So, how much better do you feel having modified a mould and find if that it ended up being exactly what you wanted? Must be very satisfying.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Good job Jim! "Green" bullets don't generally shoot all that well at "normal" to high velocity, but at lower speeds it makes less difference, usually. My experience, anyway. For boring gas check shanks, I prefer a six-flute straight chucking reamer, turned by hand in a drill press while using lots of Rapid Tap or similar heavy machining oil.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Good job Jim! "Green" bullets don't generally shoot all that well at "normal" to high velocity, but at lower speeds it makes less difference, usually. My experience, anyway. For boring gas check shanks, I prefer a six-flute straight chucking reamer, turned by hand in a drill press while using lots of Rapid Tap or similar heavy machining oil.
Why don't you just chuck it up in your lathe.....:rolleyes:
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
The actual drilling was done in a blink of an eye....but the setup took awhile (just wanted to be sure).

Good setup = good parts.

Many moons ago I took a broken end mill with a 1/2" shank, set it up in a freshly bored brass emergency collet, mounted the toolpost grinder on the lathe and ground a 60 deg. included angle on that nice precision ground high speed steel shank.

I use that centering tool to place in a chuck and locate holes for drill press work, made a bushing with a blind hole that drops into my rotary table and accepts my centering tool. Drop a spring into the bushing, centering tool on top of spring and can locate multiple holes and/or multiple parts for circular milling or bolt-circle hole placement. Can also use it for a tap handle center in the mill or drill press.
Or, you could also use it to locate hole center on a bullet mould.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
So, how much better do you feel having modified a mould and find if that it ended up being exactly what you wanted? Must be very satisfying.

Well it was pretty satisfying when it came out of the sizer but even more so when I shot the first 5 boolits and saw how they hit! Seeing if the boolit works, let alone, guessing at the load to shoot it with.:)
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Ian, I agree with using a chucking reamer instead of a drill. IF,,, you have the right size reamer.

Reminds me, I have a pretty good compliment of odd sized reamers. If someone has a need and if I can locate it, I would be happy to loan it out. I have probably 500 or more reamers and many are nominal sizes that have had the periphery reground.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
So Smokey, how do you suggest a guy center a mould for reaming out a GC shank or a bevel base?
Like you said, set up is everything.
I would think a center of some kind could be used to get the cavity centered under the chuck on a drill press. Swap out center for the proper reamer and hand turn the chuck.

I may just try using this method to remove the bevel base and slightly enlarge the base band on my Lee 120 TC for 9 mm. Mine casts at 3565 and I want closer to .358. I may have gotten good at removing lead from the barrel on my CZ but it doesn't mean I enjoy it.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
If using a reamer to take the bevel or GC shank out, because the reamer is going to seek center to a pretty good degree, using a center mounted in the chuck to locate the workpiece on the table should get you plenty close enough.

That's pretty much what JW did and it worked out perfect.

Although I do have a few 3 flute counter sinks, I use mostly Ford cutters (single flute counter sinks) as they tend to produce less chatter. Can't use those for a makeshift center.

Another handy piece of tooling for your drill press is a V-block with a round spud on the bottom that fits snugly into the center hole in your drill press table. You do have to make sure that the hole in your table will indicate true to your spindle.

Make sure the hole in your table is centered to your chuck and your table is trammed in. Drop the V-block into the hole and drill centered holes in the O.D. of a piece or pieces of round stock.

Just remembered, the V-block I made for my father 20 odd years ago, I put a .251 hole through at center of spud so he could just chuck a 1/4" dowel pin and center table/V-block.
 
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quicksylver

Well-Known Member
Jim...... AWSOME, AWSOME, AWSOME !
What really brought a smile to my face was your mentioning the 82% counter sink bit, I had already set mine on the drill press ( my way of screwing up my courage).
Looks like they are going to shoot great.
I see you used Red Dot again with good results, you Ok with it now?
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Dan,
I basically used your info from your Chrono testing the other day...and interpolated it into loads for my 8mm. Loooked to be nice soft shooting loads.
As to the Red Dot: well it sounds different, shoots different & taps your shoulder different then Bullseye but it sure shoots good groups!
My mushed primers I feel are because I'm using Federal Large Rifle primers they are about as soft as you can get; but I think I will not go above 13 grains with a gas checked boolit again.
 

quicksylver

Well-Known Member
Well that answers a question I was
going to ask you. I would try some other brand, Win, maybe. Feds give higher pressure in my opinion. We used to use Feds in our race revolvers because they are so soft and you can really lighten your trigger if using them. Do not want to drop your range ammo bag because they have been known to go off.
 

Ian

Notorious member
....and NEVER NEVER NEVER use normal Federal primers in an autoloading rifle that has a floating firing pin: AR variants, AKs, Mini's, the U.S. Rifles, etc.

That said, I tried them all and nothing ever shot better in my model 29 than standard, Federal LP primers. My bolt rifles prefer the standard LR as well.