Neck size or full length?

johnnyjr

Well-Known Member
With cast bullets are you better off full length sizing or neck size? Reason I'm asking is because some of the loads I shot today were only .2 tenths grain more and the bolt was a little still. The primers looked normal,not like some I've seen. What do you think..I didn't use my Chrono,it was chilly. My fingers got cold,lol..
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
It depends. Neck sizing drastically reduces the working of the case and can make a big difference in accuracy . Tolerance stacking for example where you have a die set that was the first set on a brand new finish reamer and the chamber was the last cut with the last one cut with the last retouch before it gets recycled. This gives you a deal where you have almost a matched set . I actually have had a pair like that , but most of my loading is for the opposite extreme . So I short size , neck size , have multiple sizing dies per set and in a couple of extreme cases even have undersized sizers for the next caliber up .

Does it make a difference?
That's kind of a trap . If the neck centers and the bolt face is square in theory it shouldn't. I did have one ,I suspect 2 more , that had a very significant gain in groups by leaving the body touched and shoulder dia just marked by the sizers . That particular 06' had a .440 shoulder OD .

Some cartridges and rifles will put up with a lot more ......or rather less sizing than others by a wide measure. AR family cartridges in Savage 110s are a great example.

Then we have the "why am I backing primers out and getting head space with the wonder load that hasn't had a problem in the barely necked cases" situation. Yep had one with a heavy bolt and firing pin that was actually pushing the shoulders back far enough and holding the case there to create a faux headspace issue I had to neck up from .320 to .356 with a faux shoulder . Stupid SKS .

I would neck size everything 100% every time , but sometimes you just can't. Load intensity, action design, cartridge, and active use will tell you how much heavy bolt you can have . If you're chasing possibly something that could inflict injury on you I wouldn't think you'd want to take any chances with missing full battery lock . At the range a full palm squeeze with a bump to catch the lugs might not be anything at all .
 
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Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Taking cast bullets out of the equation and just talking about neck sizing bottle neck casings verses full length sizing – I’m in the camp with Spindrift. Neck size is the first option and only full length resize if you can’t get away with neck sizing.

A lot depends on the individual firearm and your particular setup.

For years I used a very controlled set parameters for cartridges in a particular bolt action rifle. Same casings assigned to that rifle, neck size only, bench rest seating die, hand weighing bullets and powder, etc. The goal was to achieve the ultimate accuracy and I was happy with the results. Those casing would go through about 5 firing/reloading cycles before being relegated to other loadings.

However, that was a bolt action rifle which is pretty tolerant of tight casings and I was just punching holes in paper. If there was a failure to cycle the action, there wasn’t much at stake.

Now, if you are reloading the same cartridge for several different guns, you may or may not be able to get away with neck sizing. If all of the chambers are similar then your odds are better.

The old rule was to full length resize for semi-autos and any gun that chambering was more critical than accuracy. I don’t know if that’s a hard rule but the logic was that if it was critical that the gun cycle and function, then full length resizing was the way to go.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
I only neck size until I get about 6 to 8 firings Then I anneal and Partially full length size to get the brass worked again befor I start shooting them again , After that first shooting after annealing I go back to neck sizing. I do this for all my rifles with cast bullets
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
It depends.
Brass for bolt action rifles and cast bullets gets neck sized using Lee's collet die.
Cast or jacketed, brass for the .30-30 Winchester Model 94 and Pedersoli .45-70 rolling block are full length sized.
The .223 Ruger American has only seen jacketed bullets and its brass is neck sized with a the Lee collet die.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Agree with all the above.

I've moved a bunch of stuff, to include miscreant revolvers with over-sized throats and rifles with delinquent chambers such that what's left defers to my preferred methods - which is neck sizing bottleneck rifle brass with a LEE Collet Neck-Sing die over and over again.

Even in the break-open Contender Carbine, this works repeatedly - in MY break-open carbine. Maybe not so much in someone else's. I can regulate the "neck tension" within a narrow (and useful) band and do not crimp, so brass does not get worked much at all. If I still had a dozen rifles, this wouldn't necessarily always work, but I've off-loaded any of those which didn't prefer this treatment and have simplified my life.

In short, I can say YES, this works in ALL my bottleneck rifles!

BUT, I only have TWO bottleneck rifles now and chose to keep these because they work with this "system."

When I had a bunch of stuff, the individual rifle dictated whether I could just neck size, partial-FLR or full-FLR.

Lately, I've worked on not having to resize rimmed pistol brass at all for a revolver/carbine combo, but the individuals in that combo came by way of lots of sorting and weeding out stuff which required different or special treatment.

Short answer: It depends...
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
I full length size, every bottleneck cartridge, cast or jacketed...........because I hate to trim! I have RCBS X-dies that are designed so brass does not grow on successive firings. I have reloaded 308W & 338WM (with cast) up to 20 times, without having to trim. Occasional, neck splits were just showing up. These are moderate loadings, capable of hunting deer size game............I don't do low node shooting. I don't anneal, either.

X-dies are designed for cartridges that have a tendency to grow rather fast, with each firing. I have and use them for 243W and 270W...............don't reload cast for either of these. X-dies are only a FL sizing option.

Since I own a AR-10, full length sizing is recommended for all semi-autos. Besides, I also have a 308W bolt that could fire the AR rounds, if need be.

When, I'm FL sizing, those moderate cast loads, I can feel the sizing resistance is much less than jacketed bullet loads. Letting me know I'm not working the brass, much.

Pistol cartridges, usually get full sized with carbide dies. However, I keep my 44 Magnum brass for the Marlin separate and just neck size with RCBS carbide Cowboy dies. I get much better/ consistent accuracy. The 38/357 Rossi doesn't care, so I don't neck size or have to keep dedicated brass for it.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Winelover has already mentioned them, but I think it was Waco that turned me on to RCBS Gold Medal X dies with a full length sizing body and interchangeable neck bushings allowing me to custom size the neck for perfect cast bullet neck tension. That alone shrank my group size. Plus with the modest pressures involved with my cast ammo in the sub 1,800 fps velocity the full length sizing feels very mild.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
The X-dies that I have, were purchased when they first became available. They are not the Gold Medal variation.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
With cast bullets are you better off full length sizing or neck size? Reason I'm asking is because some of the loads I shot today were only .2 tenths grain more and the bolt was a little still. The primers looked normal,not like some I've seen. What do you think..I didn't use my Chrono,it was chilly. My fingers got cold,lol..
Do you mean ...the bolt was a little stuck... ?
If your bolt was a little stuck after firing, I can't see how Neck size or FL size would be a factor.
Maybe tell us a little more about the load details, LIKE; How close to Max charge? and seating to lands? and case capacity?
.
With that said,
I Iike to use the Lee collet style neck size dies when I am loading ammo for one rifle. If I have more than one rifle in that caliber, and I think it may get shot in either rifle, I use FL sizer. Also, I only neck size brass that was previously fired in the one rifle I plan to load for. I'd also FL size anything that goes into a semi-auto rifle. The only semi-auto rifles I have are AR-15 types in 556.

Others mention bottle neck cases grow with sizing, and that the RCBS X dies inhibit that. Well, I have found that neck sizing with Lee collet style neck size dies do not grow the cases either.
 
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Rick H

Well-Known Member
Mostly I use full length size dies but adjust them so they are only setting the shoulder back about 3 thousandths. Even with full power Jacketed bullets the trimming is minimal (after the first time), perhaps every 5 reloads. I have some neck size only dies and a Reddington bushing die for my 6mm. I have to tell you I don't notice an appreciable difference in accuracy. I am a hunter and if the rifle shoots 5 shot groups into 1" at 100 yds or 1-1/2" at 100 yds it just doesn't make a difference that matters to me in the hunting field. I am not sure there is that much difference in any of the rifles I hunt with. With the shoulder set back just a bit, they all function well.

The exception....Hah!. I always full length reside 223R/5.56 cases intended for the AR's. My bolt rifles get the shoulder set back just a bit. Function is important.
 

johnnyjr

Well-Known Member
These were very light 243 loads with cast bullets. Load was 4.5 grs of Winchester wst. Yes the bolt was a little sticky. All were neck sized. Large pistol primers. The primers looked great. No sign of pressure. Plus I have no idea how many times this brass has be fired.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
sometimes a sloping shoulder will get pushed forward in the chamber from the firing pin.
you then get a slight angle change and some case stretch, and things seem to be high pressure when the exact opposite is causing the problem.
you can only neck size a case so may times before you need to anneal and full length size to re-set everything.

you can get away with more if you have a square shaped case.
they don't grow and don't need a full length sizing since they ain't trying to match a taper.
your only issue with them is watching for a neck donut from a little brass flow under high pressure, and from the sizing in the same area.
 

johnnyjr

Well-Known Member
I do not see anything out of ordinary. Like I said I have no idea how many times this has been loaded. I full length sized and will try the same load again.