CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
The poly windshields are fine BUT BUT BUT SCRATCH if ya look at it cross eyed!! So flush with PLENTY of cleaner/water before whiping!! Even then RESIST URGE to wipe off!!!
Need a new 4 wheeler after 36 years
- Thread starter Glaciers
- Start date
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Ours is scratched up to the point that driving into the light is iffy. I told the kids not to wipe the dew off, you know how that went. I'm sure poly is lots less expensive, but if I were specing one out, I'd look for a real glass front windshield, and as someone said- with a WIPER!
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
Im four years into mine. Poly WITH A WIPER! I carry a sprayer with a heavy soap solution AND my buddy carries a sprayer with water.
At stops or when needed In heavy dust conditions, I soap and he sprays. Soap floats the debris and water removes debris. There are marks but not at all a issue. In light dusty or muddy water in sprayer alone works fine.
In friged cold might not be as bug a deal but winchield fluid made for cold should work well
For John.
CW
Glaciers
Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Well glass is not an option, neither are wiper’s. But not to worried about it. I like CW’s idea about the soap and flushing with water.Since this little machine is going to be on the homestead at all times I can flush it summer with the hose if needed.
Winter time it will be in the shop. The snow is dry, it does not stick, and the little machine has excellent ventilation because no side windows, fogging up is not going to be an issue.
Winter time it will be in the shop. The snow is dry, it does not stick, and the little machine has excellent ventilation because no side windows, fogging up is not going to be an issue.
Glaciers
Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Right now I have neighbors little loader in there which I’m keeping warm. I hate starting equipment or vehicles cold, I’m a fan of warm starts if at all possible.
I’v got a small 12 foot aluminum conx to move and place, which will be my seasonal garage for lawn tractor, 4 wheeler and other stuff I don’t want in the weather or my shop. Get that done and I can return the loader.
I’v got a small 12 foot aluminum conx to move and place, which will be my seasonal garage for lawn tractor, 4 wheeler and other stuff I don’t want in the weather or my shop. Get that done and I can return the loader.
Glaciers
Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Well I picked up the Honda SxS yesterday drove it around a little bit to get used to it. Think I’m going to like it. Will be using it today with the trailer. Bunch of usable scrap lumber in my big trailer that needs to be move to a storage pallet. Need the big trailer today to go get 4 pallets of pellets for the stove.
Windshield, hard top, and back curtain will come in next week.
My old tire chains from the 4 wheeler will fit the rear tires of this new guy, but I will need to buy a box of weed style cross links. Half of the old cross links are warn out. Side rails are still in good shape.
Windshield, hard top, and back curtain will come in next week.
My old tire chains from the 4 wheeler will fit the rear tires of this new guy, but I will need to buy a box of weed style cross links. Half of the old cross links are warn out. Side rails are still in good shape.
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
Good show John!!I never needed chains here for snow. We used them on 2WD machines and of coarse they help. But reaction was/is excellent with good tars.
Best of luck with "Big Red"!!
Glaciers
Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Yeah winter conditions are ice and hard pack road surfaces all winter, highways and side roads. Just the way it is, black top starts showing up in March and April.
Put chains on the old 4 wheeler when new which really helped, and they stay on till they wear out. Why take them off?
the advantage is you can run your machine and push easier, rather then having to ramming the snow berm.
Put chains on the old 4 wheeler when new which really helped, and they stay on till they wear out. Why take them off?
the advantage is you can run your machine and push easier, rather then having to ramming the snow berm.
L Ross
Well-Known Member
When I put chains on I used to tension them with rubber bungie straps, the type you see every day broken on the highway. Then one year a neighbor scrapped a trampoline. I got all of the springs that support the fabric. I now use those springs to tension my chains. They do not break, they do not lose their stretch, brush along side the trail does not tear them off.
Glaciers
Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Yeah the chains I built, or rebuilt have cross links long enough that the side rail chains are down the side of the tires. Doing it this way I have not needed tension bunge’s and have never lost a chain. I started with a chain set larger then called for in width and length and just cut down the length.
fiver
Well-Known Member
man i threw so many sets of tire chains on out in the patch i got so i could chain up with the drivers door open on the rig and it wouldn't get cold in the cab.
i come to the conclusion that if i ever needed to chain up a personal vehicle, i didn't need to go there that bad.... ever.
for pushin snow down a cinder pit driveway, they went on and stayed on permanently.
if i gotta plow i'm not using no 4 wheeler, a suburban or 3/4 ton pickup was my choice, they were a lot more comfortable and efficient than even the tractor.
plus i could set my drink in the cup holder and listen to the radio.
i come to the conclusion that if i ever needed to chain up a personal vehicle, i didn't need to go there that bad.... ever.
for pushin snow down a cinder pit driveway, they went on and stayed on permanently.
if i gotta plow i'm not using no 4 wheeler, a suburban or 3/4 ton pickup was my choice, they were a lot more comfortable and efficient than even the tractor.
plus i could set my drink in the cup holder and listen to the radio.