New mold arrived!

[RBHarter]

I have 11-12 NOEs the only one that gave me any trouble was the one I didn't heat cycle before I tried to cast it . It's a 5c 287-150 (hunter) I swear I've never dropped 5 bullets from it , 3&4 all the time . Doesn't matter if I pour 1,2,3,4,5 or 5,4,3,2,1 . Maybe the last run or 2 I got it to pour a few 5×5 .

Wanna talk about a PITA! ...... Yeah brass doesn't patina for fertilizer in the desert . I was soooooo ready to launch that MP brass PB/HB . A dozen heat cycles and as many casting sessions before I got 50 keepers . I know brass has a little different learning curve but when one half is hot to the point of of failure to fill out and the other is cold wrinkling .
It is a very satisfying mould to cast now , but what a hassle to get started .

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Watch your load data if you seat them that deep, the TC can fool you. I run mine about 1.200 OAL and find the powder space is a little crowded compared to Lyman 45 and 49th book data for other 230s.

Ian, thats seated to Lyman Cast manuals suggestion. 1.175"

Not fit to barrel, just checker and manual.

10rnds loaded

CW.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

 

[Ian]

You mention bullet length near the end, but how are you following book data ? Lyman doesn't have data for Lee or RCBS bullets which vary in length considerably from any Lyman bullets.

The overall length isn't what tells you what's safe, it's where the bullet base is inside the case that does.

1.200" powder coated and taper-crimped to .467" on .4515" bullet diameter will chamber in everything I have tried, including Glocks, XDs, M&Ps, convertible revolvers, etc etc.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Y

You mention bullet length near the end, but how are you following book data ? Lyman doesn't have data for Lee or RCBS bullets which vary in length considerably from any Lyman bullets.

The overall length isn't what tells you what's safe, it's where the bullet base is inside the case that does.

1.200" powder coated and taper-crimped to .467" on .4515" bullet diameter will chamber in everything I have tried, including Glocks, XDs, M&Ps, convertible revolvers, etc etc.

Ya made me walk back down those darn stairs again Ian...


Yes, not actually the TC but the TL version of the same bullet...

 

[Ian]

When did Lyman start publishing data for Lee bullets? Good find, I had to extrapolate.

 

[462]

When did Lyman start publishing data for Lee bullets? Good find, I had to extrapolate.

Cast Bullet Handbook 4th edition.

Some RCBS designs, too.

 

[Ben]

I've never pre-heat cycled any mold. Not NOE, not MP, not iron not any. Never had a pin fall out, loosen or anything else. A good cleaning with denatured alcohol and a thorough pre-heat and cast.

I don't heat cycle either.
I use aerosol brake cleaner. The denatured alcohol
should work just as well or better.
I've never had a problem.

Ben

 

[Ian]

First useful thing I've seen come out od that one. I skimmed through the counter copy at the LGS and didn't see anything that interested me enough to own a copy.

 

[fiver]

i must have missed them too, or figured i wasn't buying any more molds/powders that matched what I seen in the book.
i set it down and walked after about 10 minutes of flipping through it.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I havent seen pins falling out...

But 100% I see and reap the benefits if heat cycling molds. Im a believer.

CW

 

[Rick]

I don't heat cycle either.
I use aerosol brake cleaner. The denatured alcohol
should work just as well or better.
I've never had a problem.

Ben

I read in Hand Loader back about the early 80's that said the only commonly available cleaner for molds that would leave no residue when it dry's off is denatured alcohol. Been using it exclusively ever since. The key though is getting it completely clean removing any trace of oil and a thorough through and through pre-heat.

 

[Jeff H]

I read in Hand Loader back about the early 80's that said the only commonly available cleaner for molds that would leave no residue when it dry's off is denatured alcohol. Been using it exclusively ever since. The key though is getting it completely clean removing any trace of oil and a thorough through and through pre-heat.

I'd like using denatured alcohol more than brake cleaner. I'll have to try that. It's funny, because I often scrub the snot out of any new mould with HOT water, scouring powder and then do a full-boiling water rinse. I remove all screws for this, as the screw holes hold oil if anything will. BUT, once casting, if a probelm arises, I always use a denatured alcohol swab on the fly and it works. Maybe I should just start using it from the start.

Then again, messing with one's personal voodoo can have damaging consequences to one's security and belief system, and thereby confidence.

I add set screws to Lee moulds once I establish that they will cast ROUND bullets to full size or more. Set screws on Lee sprue plate pivot screw are absolutely mandatory - 2C or 6c. I keep a stash of set-screws, drill and tap on-hand specifically for that purpose.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Friday wanting to empty my pot for a different alloy I charged it a lil more full and cast up a honest 400+.

This mold is a flat winner. Cast beauty from the get go.

CW