New mold headed my way.

CWLONGSHOT

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I have been thinking I needed a Lyman Devastator for a long time. Never bought.
I was gifted a couple LEE molds & castin' this aftnoon with one got me ta thinking. I have wanted to try that dandy little LEE 452-200-FN.
Quick look here & there found a 2 cav Kinda wanted a 6 cav.
Looking more found a nice NOE 2 cav FN-HP mold. Checking NOE its outta stock this is a brand new price but looks good & is brass complete. SO... I have a Night Owl 453-200FN-HP mold headed my way!!
Im thinking will be everything the 200/LEE woulda plus a nice big HP that that DEVASTATOR woulda in a 2 cav.

A7E83918-8931-4DDB-A3AC-8E95947D5E76.jpeg838F5310-5397-4C87-A896-3E0535F2EBF3.jpeg7C62698D-0F76-4DAB-BDA4-B148E61DBD89.jpeg
CW
 
CWLONGSHOT

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Anyone have this mold? It is discontinued. Looking at the line the 452-193 is likely its replacement. Slightly different but close.

The LEE 452-200 FN is a good lookin bullet.

CW
 
M

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
Very serious questions for my stuck placr: Your video on the NOE hollow point mold was tops. My question is about this NOE mold but with a 358156 style bullet. Got validated on the pins-OK. My problem is splatter getting into the channels for the pins. One suggestion was that the molds were running too cold.

My question has to do with temperature. What did you find best for these brass hollow point molds? Do you used a mold release? Did you pre-heat your pins.?I have no problems making good bullets on the old style single cavity HP molds. I appreciate your help. Thanks. I own being afraid of warping the brass molds.

Be warned: I got a four cavity MP mold to make 44 caliber HP bullets. Should be four times the questions !
 
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CWLONGSHOT

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Hot plate set to make mold about 350-400 degrees. Lead @ 700ish.

I start with spure plate down about 25-35 min in I turn mold and make sure pins are on coils. Usually 45-60 min total warming pot and molds before I start castin.
CW
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
Just what CW wrote. Once it's nicely preheated and the mould temperature is normalized from some brisk casting, don't stop or slow down until your pot is empty or your arm falls off.

P.S. run your brass moulds through some heat cycles on the hot plate prior to casting, and give the cavities a LIGHT dusting of soot from a butane lighter to help keep the alloy from tinning the cavities before a good non-stick oxide layer gets established.
 
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Rick

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Ian said:
P.S. run your brass moulds through some heat cycles on the hot plate prior to casting, and give the cavities a LIGHT dusting of soot from a butane lighter to help keep the alloy from tinning the cavities before a good non-stick oxide layer gets established.
Click to expand...

See right there is proof there is more than one way to skin a cat. I've never done any of that and have not had an issue with tinning on brass, aluminum or iron. Or anything else but if your method works for you your certainly doing it right for you.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
Rick, it probably more of an Ian thing than most should worry about, but I throw it out there anyway. I tend to jump into using a mould too quickly and run them on the high-side of optimum temperature with a very tin-poor alloy, so I do get some stubborn alloy deposits in the nooks and crannies of brass moulds if I don't take time to develop some sort of "patina". Aluminum and iron doesn't tend have this problem. Here's an example:

20210822_124149.jpg
 
Rick

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
That should with the mold at a good casting temp wipe off with the thumb in a heavy work glove that has some nap to it, such as welding glove.
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
that tinning thing scares me to death, I take every precaution to avoid even a minimal amount happening.
I have even thought about buying some mold release to spray all over a mold or two....LOL
 
L Ross

L Ross

Well-Known Member
fiver said:
that tinning thing scares me to death, I take every precaution to avoid even a minimal amount happening.
I have even thought about buying some mold release to spray all over a mold or two....LOL
Click to expand...
What color font is for leg pullers?
 
M

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
My problem with the NOE mold is spatter in the channel for the Cramer pins. This situation will not allow the mold to close. Basically that's my problem. Also, I have a concern about warping the blocks. What I hearing so far is heat the molds over time including the pins on a hot plate. This suggestion gives temperatures for the molds.
 
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RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
Some are drilled for a temperature probe .
The cavity temperature can if I'm remembering right be measured with a pot thermometer or similar .
 
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