New Mould Mallet!

seagiant

Member
Hi,
Thought I would show this...

I usually use an old broken Hammer Handle, for a Sprue Knocker...

Beat my last one to tooth picks and not much left to use.

Had some farm cut Red Oak scrap laying around so glued some up and threw it on the Lathe.

Just learning to turn a little, so good practice for me.

Thought about putting some leather or something, but that would get beat to nothing also.

Think I will just called these "consumables" and let it go!

mallet .jpg
 
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seagiant

Member
That looks good!!!

I was given a Leather Working Mallet couple years ago by a viewer who commented on my whacking the mold handles in a video.

Yaetek Nylon Hammer Leathercraft Carving Hammer Sew Leather Cowhide Tool Kit with Wooden Handle DIY https://a.co/d/fXjiLnJ

View attachment 33519

Its heavier without being cumbersome. I like it allot.

Hi,
Probably a better idea, there, but...

I guess, I got used to a broken Hammer Handle kind of thing! LOL!
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Aged branch from a standing Dead White Oak, nothin feels better on the hand, than aged/oxidized sap-wood...I cut it, so there is a knot right where the "Whacking" surface is, LOL.
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Hi,
Thought I would show this...

I usually use an old broken Hammer Handle, for a Sprue Knocker...

Beat my last one to tooth picks and not much left to use.

Had some farm cut Red Oak scrap laying around so glued some up and threw it on the Lathe.

Just learning to turn a little so good practice for me.

Thought about putting some leather or something but that would get beat to nothing also.

Think I will just called these "consumables" and let it go!

View attachment 33518
Nice.

This is what I use
A1F1E640-4631-4FD4-B203-5380FC5FA2DD.jpeg
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I’ve never understood why mold mallets disintegrate. There’s not much force on them. My theory is that it is just the sheer repetition of use. Death by a thousand cuts.

My “mallets” tend to be old sections of ax or maul handles with the occasional 1” x 2” piece of scrap lumber thrown in for expediency.

I’ve thought about tightly wrapping heavy copper wire around the strike zone to save the underlying wood, but decided the current setup was so cheap that it didn’t warrant the extra work & material.

In the end, it’s just easier and more economical to just adopt another inexpensive replacement.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
When I first started casting I used a hammer handle, still have & use the same one. The only one I've ever had. Like John just said, maybe the first couple of pours it might be needed, maybe. I do everything I can to not pound on my molds. If the sprue needs any more than a lite tap rather than beat on it I fix whatever the problem is.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
Gloved hand is what I use.............after the mold is up to the right temperature. The first couple of ladle pours, a persuader is needed. Even when preheating with a hot plate.
This is my route as well. The first few casts need a rawhide mallet tap or two to cut sprues, but once things get perking along a gloved hand suffices. There are lots of routes to similar destinations.

That said--the O/P's turned tool is lovely--almost too nice to ding up through usage. 'Consumables' is a good outlook.
 

seagiant

Member
Hi,
My last casting session, was with a 2-cavity RCBS iron mold.

I would "tap", (not beat!) the sprue plate to the side...

Open the mould and the 10MM Bullets would just fall out of the Mould!

Did the shock of the tap, help this happen?

I don't know, but think it should help???
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
Thought about putting some leather or something, but that would get beat to nothing also
When I made mine, I wrapped the business end with a layer of thick plastic industrial tape. Think electrical tape on steroids. Saves the wood from getting chewed up. I also bored the end and poured a lead core. The lead improves the shock.

I also use a gloved hand for 2 and 3 cavity molds. But can't do it with a 4 or more cavity. But my club is only used for stuck bullets. I make tool that bolts to the bench and captures the end of the sprue plate to cut the sprues. I posted about it here sometime ago. Works the nuts.