Nose Pour ? ?
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
I go with Rick and Ian on this issue. It is all dependent upon the skill of the caster and quality/design of the mould.
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
I agree as well.
Thoughts are good bases are important. Arguably one of the more important aspects.
Nose pour should make a more consistent base based on your experience level. But its not necessarily a given. Good properly filled out bullet is tantamount to a good consistent shooting bullet.
Achieve that constantly, and your likely ta have good bases with both/either.
Thoughts are good bases are important. Arguably one of the more important aspects.
Nose pour should make a more consistent base based on your experience level. But its not necessarily a given. Good properly filled out bullet is tantamount to a good consistent shooting bullet.
Achieve that constantly, and your likely ta have good bases with both/either.
Elpatoloco
Active Member
Ive read this over and over about the bases must be perfect. It would make sense that all the moulds would be nose pours.
I dont cast with a PID on the pot or hot plate yet. Just easing back into it. I never have any problems with fill out. Only the bases tearing chunks when my sprue plate is too hot. I just back off and let things cool.
This is not a problem on the one single brass mold that I own. I dont know if that is an anomoly or all brass is that way.
Learn something new every time I pick up a mould and fire up the pot. Kinda what keeps me hooked on the hobby.
Within the skill of the caster is the need to try differing temperatures and alloys to see what the firearm likes.
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
I've often experienced better accuracy with bevel base bullets. One thing that often frustrated me in my early days was that it was easier to cast "perfect" bases with bevel bases. I've always preferred DEWC like 358063 and BBWC like 358091 over the likes of 358495.
FWIW, I can now cast square base bullets as easily as anything else.
FWIW, I can now cast square base bullets as easily as anything else.
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Ian
Notorious member
As long as your mould is throwing ROUND bullets and you don't screw them up in the bullet sizer, this is true. It is ESPECIALLY true of powder coated bullets being used without the gas check: Perfect "bases" every time, where it counts the most, and they shoot much better than flat base bullets in rifles provided your mould is round and you don't screw up the bullets when sizing.
oscarflytyer
Well-Known Member
Only nose pour I have is the Lee 405 HB. It has served me very well/no complaints...
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I have 2 30 cal Hoch moulds purchased back when used Hoch moulds could be had for $35-40 each. I don't think they've ever been warmed up! Wonder what they'd sell for now?
I believe base squareness to the centerline of the bullet is vital and that the base must be even all the way around. I would bet more damage is done in the sizer and seating dies than there are moulds out of whack.
I believe base squareness to the centerline of the bullet is vital and that the base must be even all the way around. I would bet more damage is done in the sizer and seating dies than there are moulds out of whack.
Rally
NC Minnesota
Well, let me show my ignorance here, but, nose pour moulds have never made sense to me! My thinking is that base fill/ square base can be seen when I open a bottom pour mould. I immediately return any bullet I can see when I cast, to my spruce pan, including any other in that mould. When I get consistent bases throughout( visually) I start keeping bullets, but also keep the first 50 or so “good” bullets separated from the majority I cast that session. Those fifty are usually returned to the pot after comparing them to what I cast later in that session, and those cast while I have got my “rythem established. Doing so, has helped me dramatically with bullet numbers I need cull later.
To my way of thinking, the turbulence within a mould , while filling, displaces the air in the cavities. Too fast a pour, too cold the mould, too cold the alloy, alloy blend, and casting cadence, all effect the rate that air is displaced. The shape of the bullet can also effect displacement of that air, if you think about the way we induce/ pour molten alloy, in relation to venting lines.
In my mind, nose pour mould, if there is any taper to bullet nose, is attempting to displace that air to a constant tapering surface( the nose) which slows that displacement???? Yes I realize the denser metal is also displacing that air, or should, if was entering the mould cavity in a uniform pattern/ level, but we/ I am not.
If anyone is trying to picture what I’m questioning here, fill a clear bottle with oil, put the cap on, and turn it upside down. Watch where the air bubbles spend the longest amount of time. Use a “Great Value” water bottle from Wal-mart that has multiple ribs in the sides, it kind of resembles the sides of a Loverin style bullet. Reverse the bottle next to simulate nose pour/ base pour.
To my way of thinking, the turbulence within a mould , while filling, displaces the air in the cavities. Too fast a pour, too cold the mould, too cold the alloy, alloy blend, and casting cadence, all effect the rate that air is displaced. The shape of the bullet can also effect displacement of that air, if you think about the way we induce/ pour molten alloy, in relation to venting lines.
In my mind, nose pour mould, if there is any taper to bullet nose, is attempting to displace that air to a constant tapering surface( the nose) which slows that displacement???? Yes I realize the denser metal is also displacing that air, or should, if was entering the mould cavity in a uniform pattern/ level, but we/ I am not.
If anyone is trying to picture what I’m questioning here, fill a clear bottle with oil, put the cap on, and turn it upside down. Watch where the air bubbles spend the longest amount of time. Use a “Great Value” water bottle from Wal-mart that has multiple ribs in the sides, it kind of resembles the sides of a Loverin style bullet. Reverse the bottle next to simulate nose pour/ base pour.
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That's why they put vent lines in molds. And we break the top edge of the mold. My previous tests showed that any nicks in the EDGE of the base causes wild flyers, exiting crown problem. Nose pour should give most perfect base but not many make them. Culling bad bases out may be less costly/work. Your choice.