RBHarter
West Central AR
I believe it is a heavy wrench more like the Crescent wrench but straight rather than angled but similar in forging line to the Ford or monkey wrench but again with the jaws parallel to the handle.
Ok, what is the trick?
- Thread starter JWFilips
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Ian
Notorious member
ATF and acetone mixed 50/50 turns out to be the best penetrating oil there is, by a wide margin. I got a kick out of the "reason" hammer! The only one I engraved (actually did in MiG bead) is the 3-lb hand sledge with a 22" ax handle fitted to it. The weld bead reads "FORD".
smokeywolf
Well-Known Member
Ian, if your saying that 50-50 ATF and acetone beats Kroil for creeping into tight places and dissolving oxidation, I'm going to have to mix some up. Always keep those two components on hand.
Ian
Notorious member
SW, there have been tests done. ATF/acetone reduces break-away torque of rusted steel parts by half of the next best commercial penetrant, which I believe was Kano Kroil. Most of the penetrating oils on the market all run about the same level of effectiveness with PB Blaster and Kroil leading the pack by a little.
Pb2au
Active Member
Haha! My father in law (who's only religion is Oldsmobile) refers to his big ball peen as his Ford hammer as well.
I keep a big bottle of 50/50 ATF kerosene for penetrating oil on the shelf out in the Empire of Dirt. I never thought to use acetone.. I'll bet it wicks into crannies better than the kerosene carrier. I will have to try that.
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
More support for ATF and acetone, although MEK, or lacquer thinner, or mineral spirits all seem to work in a pinch.
Recently took off a bunch of nuts and bolts on a tractor blade that had sat outside in the weather in Georgia, near the coast for a
few decades. Soaked in ATF/laquer thinner for 10 min and got all of them off without breaking a one. It surprised me, and I
have been a believer for quite some time in this stuff.
I mix up a tiny batch whenever I need it. Hard to keep acetone or MEK or lacquer thinner
inside anything but metal cans.
Bill
Recently took off a bunch of nuts and bolts on a tractor blade that had sat outside in the weather in Georgia, near the coast for a
few decades. Soaked in ATF/laquer thinner for 10 min and got all of them off without breaking a one. It surprised me, and I
have been a believer for quite some time in this stuff.
I mix up a tiny batch whenever I need it. Hard to keep acetone or MEK or lacquer thinner
inside anything but metal cans.
Bill
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Ian
Notorious member
That stuff gave me a terrible time. When I built our new master bathroom (second story) my wife and I opted for a high-quality 3'x4' standing shower insert to save weight on the building vs. tile. The unit consisted of three sides and a pan which would be fastened to the wall studs through the sheet rock and have all seams sealed with a special silicone that is safe for gel coat. Naturally I wanted the sealant to stick REALLY well and hopefully last the remainder of our days, so I looked around for something to remove any trace of mould release agent or other residue from the fiberglass panels without damaging the surface. Mineral spirits is pretty good at degreasing things without harming them, so I went to the shop and dug around. Unfortunately, it was late and I was tired and not a little frustrated from the tedious precision fitting of the panels, so I wasn't thinking clearly when I grabbed a bottle of said milky stuff and proceeded to wipe down all the joints before finally screwing all the panels into place. If I remember right I've peeled the sealant out of all the joints now at least twice, maybe three times in some places and used denatured alcohol to clean out the joints the second time. FINALLY I got the damned caulk to adhere and stay adhered, but it looks terrible after all the re-doing because that milky crap left a residue that NOTHING would stick to. I would have been better off just gluing it up without cleaning the first time. Oh well, live and learn. The base has a split in it now that I've drilled through the ends, vee-grooved, and repaired with Loctite Power Grab, and it's holding so far, but when the pan finally gives up for good I'm going to rip the whole mess out again and put in a one-piece unit if I can find one. I finally got the hang of this house building thing, but hopefully won't ever need to apply that experience again!
smokeywolf
Well-Known Member
Have always used either denatured alcohol or a volatile dry spotter like Picrin for cleaning parts and assemblies that have rubber, plastic, fiberglass, etc. components to them.
M3845708Bama
Active Member
your answer may be to get a socket that fits and use a breaker bar. Mine only sticks up 3/16" so there is very little to catch with normal wrench.