Persistence of Kroil

JWinAZ

Active Member
I used Kroil to help with removing a bullet, and lead ring, stuck in a Lee push through die. Don't know that it helped. I put the bullet, after wiping off the excess, in a 20 pound pot and had a short casting session. Hours later I inspected the bullets and notice a faint but discernable Kroil odor. The odor was on the bullets and not my fingers. Didn't seem to affect the quality of the bullets but I won't be doing that again. Amazing stuff I guess.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Everyone was using it in all types of molds. I dont use it. Never really have and I was a mill Wright. Torch works much better at getting things to move
 

JonB

Halcyon member
sooo.
about 15 years ago there was a fad of using Kroil as a release agent in mehanite bullet molds.
Oil as a release agent? That works?…
I got into a heated discussion about that 10+ yrs ago. I never did try it, but the way they discribed using it, is much like the traditional instructions for Bullplate. Put a drop on a Q-tip, and apply conservatively on a mold that is at operating temperature. Obviously to flash off any solvents.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
they were putting it in the cavity's.
i don't have any kroil, but i did give a couple of molds a couple of shots of penetrating oil to hot molds and it never seemed to be a problem.
i can't say it helped or hurt, but it did steam off.
so it might be something worth trying with a sticky cavity.
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
As I remember: Applying Kroil to a mould's cavities was discussed, both pro and con, at that other place. The pros saying -- seemingly in normal talking voices -- Kroil helped bullets release from a baulky mould, and the cons saying -- seemingly quite loudly -- they'd never put anything in their mould cavities and it was all a bunch of voodoo and horse do-do.

At the time, I had a Lyman two cavity mould that I was at least the third owner of, and it had been subjected to a lot of abuse. Some of the abuse may have been due to the death grip it put on the bullets instead of releasing them. The bullet design was not one that I was really interested in, but it was free. After the above discussion had been ongoing for quite a while, I decided to try the Kroil trick. After all, what bullet caster hasn't tried at least one off-the-wall idea?

For what its worth: I'm not advocating Kroil's use or its non-use, and am not saying it will or it won't work. I will say that, after applying Kroil to the mould's cavities, that stubborn and badly abused mould instantly dropped bullets like it was painful for it to hang on to them.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Flashed off oil, leaving carbon in the pits, would make it release pretty quickly, I would think.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
I live in a very damp area, so I store all my ferris based moulds in Kroil. As a preservative. Used it before I ever heard of the Great Kroil controversy. Because we use it in my industry .
That is the product we spray down our iron moulds, going into long term storage(like over a year). It requires no removal but running over a gas flame before we bone ash.

I just burn it off before I start casting. Easy peasy.
I don't use it for its casting properties, but to keep my moulds from rusting.
A few wrinkles, first five casts or so then no issues. If I use a hot plate for a bit first. I get good bullets in about 2 casts.

However Had an issue with one mould. A Lyman two cavity mould that I was at least the 4th owner of.;)when I got it I cleaned it really well. Mistake... Stuck like it just did not want to give the bullets up. Cleaned it up then put it away in Kroil.
After storing it in Kroil. Well it never stuck again.... Ever.... Haven't cleaned it since with a out 5 more casting sessions on it.
So I guess I will never know that it don't work, as all my Mehanite moulds swim in it, between use. And none of them ever stick.
 
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