Powder Measure

Green Frog

New Member
Once you've settled on a working charge for a given round, eliminating adjustments (and the opportunity of getting out of adjustment) can be a desirable thing...the OP's grandson has enough of a learning curve without having to contend with to not have the additional consideration of adjusting a powder measure. As for changing calibers (or even setting up for "range loads" and "hunting loads") if you have a selection of rotors, this can be easily accomplished... just be sure to keep a good log to keep them straight. Even the first great progressives, the Star Progressives, came with powder slides with fixed rotors!

The reloading enthusiast will frequently be changing and experimenting with different loads, and an adjustable powder measure can be quite useful. In fact, I have several myself, but that's not the topic of this thread. For a "kit" I like to keep a powder measure with fixed rotor set for that particular caliber and powder charge and I'm good to go! :)
Froggie
 

Dimner

Named Man
My issue with fixed rotors is that the chart doesn't exactly match the real world results. The one I tried had a 0.5gr difference than what I wanted. So I went back to the adj rotor method.

Now, take this with a grain of salt as I have only tried one powder and one rotor, but it was enough for me to send it back. I bet if I loaded for more than one pistol, I'd be singing a different tune.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
My issue with fixed rotors is that the chart doesn't exactly match the real world results. The one I tried had a 0.5gr difference than what I wanted. So I went back to the adj rotor method.

Now, take this with a grain of salt as I have only tried one powder and one rotor, but it was enough for me to send it back. I bet if I loaded for more than one pistol, I'd be singing a different tune.

Relative to that, circumstances infuse relativity too.

There is definitely a compromise involved, but I've found with the faster pistol powders, it generally doesn't make a lot of difference unless I'm really fine-tuning for loads beyond 50 yards. I use my Uniflow 99.9% of the time, even for such loads, but once I've established my nominal loads for a project I'm working on, I will be looking for a way to throw the optimal charges with something fixed.

This too is for a kit - a last-ditch/hold-out/bug-in kit, which would keep me shooting, at least to some drgree, regardless of the general, or my personal economic situation. It won't produce 500-yard prairie-dog loads, elk or brown bear loads, but loads with which I can defend myself, my property (destructive vermin/varmints) or take advantage of a local hunting opportunity. More important, just being able to shoot for the sake of being able to shoot - a combination of workable compromises to achieve some level of utility between the extremes.

I rarely use my old bushing-type dispenser, but following Ben's lead, I can see a useful place for it in such a kit.

Dippers? Yeah, I suppose, but I'm not planning "bugging out," "heading to the hills on foot" or living in the woods in a debris hut. Any place I go, I'll be pushing a wheel chair. If my wife can't go there, I don't go there. If the house were burning and I couldn't get her out, I guess we'd both burn up, but just as well t hen. However, should circumstances force us out of our comfy home and into something smaller, with no "extra rooms" or a shop, I want a kit I can easily toss into the back of the Jeep or trailer and use in tighter quarters. That's not the PLAN, but I'm planning for it anyway. If I have to sell or abandon everything else, this kit, one rifle and one revolver will be the MINIMUM I carry (in a vehicle) away from it.

I've handloaded like this before, while in the Army and living in apartments. Everything (to include a 3-hole LEE turret press) fit into a plywood box I had built for my two-burner Coleman camp stove. It fit on the left/rear seat-floor of a two-door Toyota Tercel and was with me even as I traveled between assignments. It's slower, but sort of liberating at the same time.

There are seemingly boundless sets of circumstances around which to assemble such a collection and seemingly boundless "right ways" to do it. I actually was able to fit my Uniflow into that plywood box, with 2# of powder, 1k primers and 500 cast bullets too. I'm looking to reduce weight and bulk this time around. Einstein was onto something regarding relativity - GRAVITY is relative to one's AGE. Sh....TUFF weighs more now than it did when I was nineteen.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
My issue with fixed rotors is that the chart doesn't exactly match the real world results. The one I tried had a 0.5gr difference than what I wanted. So I went back to the adj rotor method.

Now, take this with a grain of salt as I have only tried one powder and one rotor, but it was enough for me to send it back. I bet if I loaded for more than one pistol, I'd be singing a different tune.
I find the RCBS to be pretty accurate. I do have a few rotors bought used that I suspect someone drilled to adjust capacity as they are far off but new ones are quite good. But more important is they are consistent. I always and forever had drilled into my skull "trust but verify."

CW
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Once you've settled on a working charge for a given round, eliminating adjustments (and the opportunity of getting out of adjustment) can be a desirable thing...the OP's grandson has enough of a learning curve without having to contend with to not have the additional consideration of adjusting a powder measure.
Let’s break this down into two parts: A powder measure getting out of adjustment,
AND,
the learning curve for the OP's grandson.

An adjustable powder measure is just that - ADJUSTABLE. The ability to adjust the measure to throw a desired weight of ANY powder is its strength. It's sort of like a Crescent Wrench, or a welder, or the burners on a gas cooktop; the ability to adjust them is what makes them desirable. I have several tool heads set up for a Dillon 550, complete with powder measures. I haven't altered the settings on those measures in years, but I still check them EVERY time I use them. (Lets me sleep better). I don't view something like an adjustable powder measure as a potential liability. In that context, having the ability to adjust it is a benefit that makes it more useful. That being said, there are times when a fixed rotor measure is useful the same way a fixed size on socket or wrench is useful.

As for the learning curve, Any person capable of understanding the process and tools of reloading (with or without direct supervision) is more than capable of grasping the concept of a powder charge and the operation of a powder measure. While a fixed rotor measure is entirely appropriate for that work, it isn’t mandatory simply because he’s a beginner.

I’m sure he already knows the necessity of using a specific type of powder and a specific weight of that powder for each cartridge. The powder measure is simply a tool to conveniently deliver that consistent weight.
Take the rotor out and show it to him. Let him hold it, examine it. Put the rotor back in the measure and demonstrate to him how it works (it aint’ rocket science). Let him throw some powder charges into a pan and weight them. Let him play with it.

You could do the same demonstration with an adjustable measure. He’ll get it.

If he’s responsible and intelligent enough to perform the operation, he can grasp the concept of a rotating drum with a cavity in it. Kids are smarter than we give them credit for. They are often capable of absorbing an incredible amount of information and often they possess the desire to learn more than adults.
 

JustJim

Well-Known Member
I’ve actually gone overboard on rotor type measures and have two each RCBS Little Dandies and Lyman Accu-Measures with a complete set of rotors and a few spares for each, but in addition I’ve got about 5 of the Pacific Pistol Measures and probably 10-12 rotors. I’m having a hard time determining what would constitute a “complete set” of rotors as Pacific kept selling different releases as well as offering custom drilled (and undrilled) rotors over the decades of production. I really like the compact PPM for pistol charges, but the Lyman and RCBS certainly have their attractions as well.
froggie
Toward the end, and when Hornady bought Pacific, Pacific made 22 different rotors. Bair also made a version of the measure, with the same rotors. Harley Bair told me once that some of their custom or one-off rotors were marked with letters.
 

Edward R Southgate

Component Hoarder Extraordiniare
Once you've settled on a working charge for a given round, eliminating adjustments (and the opportunity of getting out of adjustment) can be a desirable thing...the OP's grandson has enough of a learning curve without having to contend with to not have the additional consideration of adjusting a powder measure. As for changing calibers (or even setting up for "range loads" and "hunting loads") if you have a selection of rotors, this can be easily accomplished... just be sure to keep a good log to keep them straight. Even the first great progressives, the Star Progressives, came with powder slides with fixed rotors!

The reloading enthusiast will frequently be changing and experimenting with different loads, and an adjustable powder measure can be quite useful. In fact, I have several myself, but that's not the topic of this thread. For a "kit" I like to keep a powder measure with fixed rotor set for that particular caliber and powder charge and I'm good to go! :)
Froggie

Welcome Froggie ! I like the idea of the little dandy but wish I had bought one before they got to be so popular. I like the Belding & Mull measure better than any other I have ever used but they are not cheap anymore either, fortunately I have several .