Recommended Bottom Pour Lead Furnace

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Never in my life have I bought any tool to see how much time, energy and frustration I'll need to put into it to get it to do what I bought it to do. No I'm not hardly rich, more often than not I'll need to scrimp and save up to get what I need. That mindset totally eliminates any piece of casting equipment that says LEE on it. Life is way too short to deal with junk.

LOL!

I feel like you've been watching me. Just yesterday, I finally scrapped a couple LEE 2C 358 moulds I've had for probably twenty years. I think I spent more time fixing them than casting with them, but they DID yield a lot of good bullets, albeit at the expense of a lot of time and effort. The newer ones seem considerably better, but I only have one of those to compare. Yeah, and every time I bought one, I KNEW what I was in for, but did it anyway.:headbang:


While I've trashed a lot of LEE 2C moulds over the years, but the pots have been exemplary in that they are a basic heating unit with no useless extravagance and they are easy to clean. I'm not arguing against your point with my praise for their pots - I just had to add that bit after having reinforced your point with my recent literal experience using their moulds.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Thing is for like $30 you can buy every spare part you need for a lee 20 pounder pro.
Which is what I did.
So if something breaks I will just fix it. Plus IMO the less are cheep enough, why just not buy 2 so you have a spare.
 

Dimner

Named Man
Hhmmm . . . . Seems beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

For my money anything except anything that says LEE on it. :rolleyes:
I have a lee 20lb pot, not a bottom pour, I think it's called the pro melter or something. Excellent as a ladle pot. Just is a raised 20lb pot and a thermostat. Combined with a PID bought on another forum, it's an excellent melter. Really can't think of anything that would make it better. I get perfect bullets from it. Every time.
 

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
I know it's not what the OP is asking, but this is what I'd have if I didn't have a system that works nicely and wasn't cheaper than Scrooge. https://www.rcbs.com/bullet-casting/melting/easy-melt2/1000845.html

You know, Bret... I was originally thinking a bottom pour. But reading thru things, not sure I want to go that way. The REAL issue I have is keeping a constant temp, and the Coleman is clunky (and old/about done). Plus, I have learned to ladle cast with all my molds. A couple have suggest a std melting pot and ladle. Your suggestion may be the way to go. Thanx
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I did the Coleman thing for a while. What I finally wound up with was a large stainless measuring cup, I think it holds 8 cups, about 4" across and 5" high. I just happened to luck onto it in a hardware store years back. I use it on a pretty much standard Wally World open coil hot plate, I think it's around 1100 watts. It's got to be an open coil type, not the smooth top type. The pot holds a good 25-30lbs 2/3 full. Takes maybe 15 minutes to get up to pouring heat. I use an analog Tru-Temp thermometer right in the melt sometimes and the temp stays pretty consistent, within one bar which is 25 degrees I think. You don't have to add alloy to it very often I'll tell you. And FWIW, my dross accumulation dropped to almost nothing when I dumped the old cast iron pot an went with this one. All I get now is a little ash from stirring and fluxing.

If you can get a 15 amp circuit for the pot, I'd go electric and stick with the ladle. I've had a Lee and went through that nightmare. It worked, sorta, but I couldn't SEE anything I was doing. And of course it would empty itself onto the bench top any time I turned my back for 11.27 nano-seconds! Then I got 2 Lymans, 10lbs ers, The thermostats on both are messed up but I know I can get a modern replacement. It's the wiring that is the issue. Those things get HOT and mine originally came with bare copper power wires past the box with glass/ceramic beads threaded on to them as insulation. The wires corroded away and I found a pictorial an how to get to fresh wire inside the elements. The plan is to mount one above the other and link both levers together so the lower pot has a constant level of alloy. And I want the bottom pot nozzle near eye level so I can see. I've used it at eye level and it's a big improvement, but for any real production the ladle is worlds and worlds faster for me. Maybe it is being used to the ladle, but it's so versatile and easy to do what a particular mould wants with a ladle- pressure pour, 1" drop, 2" drop off to one edge a little, let the alloy fill the mould and then run over the sprue and back into the pot, whatever you need. And with my 10 cav H+G I don't know if it would even fit under some BP's.

I guess I'm old and set in my ways, but I'm not rushing to change anything when I've got something that works really well.
 
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Dimner

Named Man
You know, Bret... I was originally thinking a bottom pour. But reading thru things, not sure I want to go that way. The REAL issue I have is keeping a constant temp, and the Coleman is clunky (and old/about done). Plus, I have learned to ladle cast with all my molds. A couple have suggest a std melting pot and ladle. Your suggestion may be the way to go.
Based on my experience with the new digital temp controls from RCBS, I would stay away from anything they sell with a digital readout. I'd bet money that the digital ladle pot has the same digital temp setup as the pro-melt2.
 

Bisley

Active Member
I can find fault with every manufacturer of reloading equipment from whom I have purchased. That said, I have had consistent success with the Lee 15-17 pound dipper pot, as it is basic and simple to operate. I don't use a casting thermometer, but just make adjustment as the pot empties and if I do my part, I can get good bullets.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
I can recommend the RCBS Easy Melt with built in PID. I've had mine since they were introduced, without issues. Couldn't pass it up for $70, delivered, after rebate. There is a cool down procedure to adhere to..............turn down the temperature and do not unplug until PID is reading less than 160 degrees. Takes a couple of hours, when pot half filled with molten alloy. I cast outdoors, when its cooler than 70 degrees.

If one was to purchase a Lee 20# and add a aftermarket PID, the Easy Melt would be considerably cheaper.
 

Rockydoc

Well-Known Member
I started with a Lee 10 pounder, then a Lee 20 pounder bottom pour pots. It got to leaking so bad I finally decided I wouldn't put up with it. It leaked because the screw which held down the pouring lever was stripped. I tried a few fixes like a larger screw etc. but the hole the screw went into was just sheet metal and kept enlarging and failing.

I wanted a RCBS ProMelt 2 but they were out of stock everywhere for a long time (I think the Chinese were giving RCBS a hard time) so I looked for a used RCBS ProMelt original on eBay and got a nice one. I think the only difference between the original and the 2 is the addition of the digital thermostat on the 2 and a price increase. I had a PID anyway and I am glad it turned out the way it did because I got my melter months before the 2s were available and I think a PID thermocouple in the melt is working much better than the built in thermostat on the ProMelt 2.

I have bottom poured exclusively since the beginning, except for a brief period at the suggestion of Ben. He was right, I cast better bullets when ladling, but I have arthritis so bad in my right wrist that I can't ladle pour very long then my wrist hurts for weeks after. So I can support those 4 cavity brass HEAVY molds on the adjustable rest on the bottom pour pots and make due with the bullets I get. That rest on the RCBS is soo much better than Lee.
 

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
I can recommend the RCBS Easy Melt with built in PID. I've had mine since they were introduced, without issues. Couldn't pass it up for $70, delivered, after rebate. There is a cool down procedure to adhere to..............turn down the temperature and do not unplug until PID is reading less than 160 degrees. Takes a couple of hours, when pot half filled with molten alloy. I cast outdoors, when its cooler than 70 degrees.

If one was to purchase a Lee 20# and add a aftermarket PID, the Easy Melt would be considerably cheaper.
Is the Easy Melt you mention the digital readout one?
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Well, I have to add a twist to my previous plug. While I still like my basic Lee pots, when I tried to get some parts, I got the ol' "we don't have parts for those anymore, but will sell you a new one...."

OK, they DID offer to sell me a new one at "half retail," PLUS shipping,... PLUS me shipping my old one back (why, if it's so useless and ouitdated?), so it would cost more than buying a new one outright through any one of our favorite outlets anyway.

No sense arguing with the gal, as the practice today seems to be to hire someone who knows nothing about anything to stall the customer in need. I asked to speak with engineering and I doubt that will happen. I can see how the new pot liner may not be backward compatible, but am annoyed that they didn't make it that way. I don't see how the element and temp switch would not be backward compatible though - it makes no sense to change that. The switch is a basic, decades (many) old mechanical switch still made the world over and any would do or could be done without when using the PID controller.

So, the element,.... if I could just get my hands on a photo I know to be accurate, I could tell if the old/new interchange. I barely get time to cast, so getting time to dissect one of the pots will be hard to come by. When I do, I'll share if I learn anything useful. Bottom line - such a basic thing - no more complicated than a toaster - should be serviceable for a couple lifetimes unless there are proprietary connectors involved. I worked in process heating for eight years and there's no shortage of heating element configurations to be found., but looking takes time and vendors won't want to spend that much time if you're not buying a BUNCH of them. Been out of it long enough my contacts are no longer viable.

If I had someone who could draw a seamless pot, I think I'd just MAKE a new pot and buy a ladle. I get that frustrated playing the "parts game" and am disappointed with Lee that they're doing it too now. Either stuff just goes out of style faster these days, or time is accelerating on an exponential curve as I age. I do believe that if I were ambitious enough, I could prove a link between that and the FACT that gravity is RELATIVE. RELATIVE to my AGE!;)

My epiphany - Don't fill 50 cal ammo cans with ingots and hide them under a bench when you're thirty. As they sit, they get heavier. The longer they sit, the heavier they get. Like age-hardening but much more aggressive.

Anyway, I still like my old Lee pots, but one has a too-large spout* from too many cleanings and the other needs (probably) an element. If you're not a patient tinkerer (broke), but spare parts when you buy the pot, because Lee may not be offering arts for it thirty years from now. I'll find a solution, but figured I should give a heads-up because not everyone is going to want to mess with it. I guess thirty years isn't bad, but they're still too good on all counts but the couple issues to throw away.

*Not such a big deal on the 44 moulds, but I cast way more 22, 30 and 357s, especially combined.
 

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
OK. Bought the RCBS Easy Melt and cast with it first time last night. MAN, I WISH I had gone this route a LONG time ago! Only real downside is the cool down/letting the fan run til it gets to <160 deg. Otherwise I love it.
 

Ian

Notorious member
The Easy Melt PID is OK but tue temp probe is highly inaccurate. Mine reads 50⁰F too low. Here's why:

20190422_221309.jpg

It isn't difficult to pull the guts out, extend a few wires, and eliminate the overheating issues.

20190422_220320.jpg
 

Dimner

Named Man
Ian,

What is going on in the 2nd pic? I'm not sure I follow what wires you rerouted and to what purpose. I think I may do a hack with my promelt2 and your pics seem like a good place to start.
 

david s

Well-Known Member
I just use the Lee pots so don't know anything about the RCBS Easy Melt but could you put it on something like a light timer for the cool down to the 160*.
 

Ian

Notorious member
That's just a view inside with the back cover off. I haven't made a permanent control box yet but do run it with the PID hanging out the back.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
I have a Series-1 RCBS Pre Melt Furnace. I got it from a 2nd-hand store new in box in 2003 for $50. Date stamp from the factory shows "MARCH 1988". I had gotten by with Lee pots previously, and learned to deal with their stalagmite-forming side-hustles easily enough--just leave the Lyman ingot mould under the drip spout, and harvest the formed drippings as needed, about 12-15 minutes apart.

The Pro Melt was and is a CONSIDERABLE upgrade. I rate it among my BEST reloading tools. Some here might remember Arthur Green in Beverly Hills from his metals ads in Handloader magazine. His office was in Beverly Hills, and some years back I met him there to buy some casting metal. On the floor of his shop he had a half-dozen the the Pro Melts set up for blending the spec alloys he sold. He described the furnaces as "Absolutely bullet-proof" and that some had been in constant service for 10+ years. I think this was 1998-1999, IIRC.

I could never afford to buy one of these new/retail, what with kids needing cars, prom dresses, and all the other stuff they require. So, when that NIB Pro Melt showed up, I snagged it without hesitation. They ran close to $300/MSRP in those days, so $50 was like manna from heaven. I love the thing.

Rick Tunell/Buckshot bought one of the newer RCBS Easy-Melt furnaces within the past year, and really likes his. It has that cool-down sequence/fan deal mentioned above, just be mindful of that and read the instructions about how to shut it down, per Rick.