Revolver leading

[Brad]

Here are photos of the muzzle and a couple different areas on the forcing cone.

Holy crap is that sucker rough!

Anyone know what angle S&W uses on forcing cones? I need to turn a brass lap and smooth it a bit.

I also looked and have 200 358 Hornady XTP on hand.

 

[Brad]

OK, it would seem that with the extreme accuracy that I have with my 586 +1
and others have with 686s, changing the bbl design wouldn't be smart.

Bill

Smart? No.
Financially better? Possibly.

Like most everything in life these days cost outranks quality.

 

[USSR]

Here are photos of the muzzle and a couple different areas on the forcing cone.

Holy crap is that sucker rough!

Now you know why my newest S&W was made in 1981.

Don

 

[gman]

Sure don’t make em like they used to. My 686 is one I’ll never give up.

 

[Brad]

This one shoots pretty well already, I think I can get it to shoot even better.

 

[Pistolero]

lapping the forcing cone to smooth and center may be all you need.

Turn a cone from steel which will screw onto a rod, then make a brass bushing to
just fit the bore diam to center it. Load up with fine valve grinding compound
and work against the forcing cone.

Bill

 

[Pistolero]

I recut mine to 11 degrees. Factory is steeper, not sure what. Many are clearly
off center. Using a guide bushing keeps it centered.

Bill

 

[Brad]

I like a brass lap. Softer cuts harder so I want a lap softer than the barrel.
I will make a small bushing to keep the rear of the rod centered, already have a cone for the muzzle.
A bit of 240 grit Clover compound and a drill will clean this up pretty quick.

 

[Pistolero]

Sounds good. The first thing to check is whether it is centered on the bore.
A brass lap coated with prussian blue and turned with a centered bore bushing
will mark evenly if the factory forcing cone is centered. If centered, just lap a bit,
if not, need to recut and then lap, or lap to center with coarse, then fine.

Bill

 

[smokeywolf]

Although "Clover" is good stuff, I've found I prefer "Timesaver" lapping compound. If you ever need to buy lapping compound again, you might try "Timesaver".

 

[358156 hp]

This one shoots pretty well already, I think I can get it to shoot even better.

Here we go again!

 

[Brad]

Here we go again!

This one has a lower standard to achieve. I'm not looking for 100 yard accuracy, just good groups at 10-20 yards and no leading.

 

[freebullet]

Whenever I find leading the first thing I do is pull a couple bullets & measure. More often than not I find they got sized down, don't happen much, but that's the most common oopsy for me.

That does look rough in there. I'm sure you can smooth it out.

 

[Eutectic]

What's the groove diameter Brad?......

Pete

 

[Rick]

What's the groove diameter Brad?...... Pete

And the throat diameters?

 

[Eutectic]

And the throat diameters?

I think he said throats were .357"+ in original post Rick. I'm curious about two things..... The throat/bore relationship and how big the "+" is!

Pete

 

[pokute]

I wonder how they are securing that shroud.
I guess simple like Dan Wesson uses is too much trouble, it's gotta be something the end user can't play with.

JB Weld, of course...

 

[gman]

Check out the lead on the first patch! Previously owned 357 Maximum. It’s cleaning up very well. Can’t understand people shooting a gun in this condition and not doing something about it. Oh well.

 

[gman]

First picture looks like it doesn’t show fully.

 

[Ian]

Friend of mine scored a 4" SS GP-100 in 98% condition from a gun store because the owner said it had a bulge in the barrel on one side and very little rifling remaining. Friend agreed and gave him something like $200 for it, then took it home and scraped all the .38 wadcutter lead out of it to reveal a perfect bore. He then brought it to me and we fixed the .355" cylinder throats and polished the forcing cone with a lead lap screwed on a cleaning rod, now it shoots well and doesn't lead.