Scope shimming.

[richhodg66]

The comment about shimming rings posibly damaging a scope is well taken, concerns about this are why I asked first.

I always lap my scope rings when mounting a scope. If one were to shim the rear scope ring, would the lapping not make the scope sit ture in the rings without the possibility of bending the scope tube? It seems like it would, but the Burris rings seem to be the right answer.

 

[RicinYakima]

The comment about shimming rings posibly damaging a scope is well taken, concerns about this are why I asked first.

I always lap my scope rings when mounting a scope. If one were to shim the rear scope ring, would the lapping not make the scope sit ture in the rings without the possibility of bending the scope tube? It seems like it would, but the Burris rings seem to be the right answer.

I have done it both ways, and while the shim and lap works, it is a couple hours job. Burris is the way to do it.

 

[glassparman]

Ian, it's actually not a real M1A. It's one of those Garand receivers that Santa Fe arms or whoever it was in the 60's, cut down to an M14 length and used M14 spare parts. So actually the rear sight is removed and this sets in that spot with a bolt.

 

[Tomme boy]

Depending on how much it needed to be shimmed no lapping would take out the amount you needed. You would also have to mill off or file off the flats on where the rings meet the top and bottom. As you lap it out, one side is going to be deeper than the other. So for it to be able to grip the scope you would need to take a little off of the larger side top so the ring could now grip the scope again. Some rings have a lot of space between the halves. Others have none.

So the Burris Z rings are really the best option. And the inserts are give you a offset in fractions of a inch NOT in MOA. Here is what the inserts do. Don't mix them in the same ring. Use the + and - same in each ring. You just spin them to give you a po or neg amount. You can also use the if you don't have enough windage in the scope. You just use them so they are left + or right + depending on which you need.

Pos-Align Offset Insert Kits include one each of the
following inserts:
+5 and –5 (equal to +/– .005”)
+10 and –10 (equal to +/– .010”)
+20 and –20 (equal to +/–.020”)
By combining the various sizes, you can achieve from
.005” up to .040” total offset within your rings.

 

[richhodg66]

Good to know. I may have to invest in more of these rings. I've had a couple of rifles that I ran out of windaege adjustment on, but the Redfield style mounts and rings take care of that, or the Millett angle locks if using Weaver type bases.

 

[Snakeoil]

I'm a big fan of 10 or 20 MOA rails/mounts. Keeps the rings in line so you don't damage your scope tube as Tomme clearly pointed out. Shimming rings is in the Fred Sanford category of fixes, IMHO.

 

[Ian]

Depending on how much it needed to be shimmed no lapping would take out the amount you needed. You would also have to mill off or file off the flats on where the rings meet the top and bottom. As you lap it out, one side is going to be deeper than the other. So for it to be able to grip the scope you would need to take a little off of the larger side top so the ring could now grip the scope again. Some rings have a lot of space between the halves. Others have none.

So the Burris Z rings are really the best option. And the inserts are give you a offset in fractions of a inch NOT in MOA. Here is what the inserts do. Don't mix them in the same ring. Use the + and - same in each ring. You just spin them to give you a po or neg amount. You can also use the if you don't have enough windage in the scope. You just use them so they are left + or right + depending on which you need.

Pos-Align Offset Insert Kits include one each of the
following inserts:
+5 and –5 (equal to +/– .005”)
+10 and –10 (equal to +/– .010”)
+20 and –20 (equal to +/–.020”)
By combining the various sizes, you can achieve from
.005” up to .040” total offset within your rings.

This ought to be a sticky.

Only thing I can add is after mounting the rings and setting up the inserts, set the scope adjustments to neutral by running the adjustments to their limits both ways and counting turns back to center. If you dial elevation a lot for longer ranges you might want to offset the elevation so "zero" is 25% up from lowest instead of halfway so you have more room, use your own judgement. Bore sight the scope and use your offset rings to get zero. This is lots of trial and error, a power screwdriver can be your friend.

 

[popper]

You mean those funky aluminum Burris rings? Got a set with inserts I don't want or need.

 

[JonB]

The original Signature rings, that we all are talking about here, are Steel.
The XTR signature rings, that look like the Tesla Pickup, are "robust aluminum" per Burris' advertisement.

 

[JonB]

This ought to be a sticky.

Maybe a Moderator could also change the title to "Burris Signature Rings with inserts"
So it's easily searchable.

 

[Snakeoil]

For those unfamiliar or who cannot picture what the Burris rings are about. Think of a ball socket link, like a Heim joint or a spherical race ball bearing. The inserts and the mating rings have a spherical mating surface to allow perfect scope tube alignment while also allowing offset.

 

[richhodg66]

Rings arrived this afternoon. Hopefully the insert kit will be here soon as I have some time this week. Now that I look at these, it jogged my memory, I have mounted a set of these on a rifle before, no idea if I still have the rings or not. Guess this will be a learning experience.