Using Speedloaders with WC's & SWC's

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
The topic of the use of wadcutters and speedloaders came up in another thread. Rather than wildly drift that thread, I thought I would delve into that issue here.

First, allow me to address the elephant in the room. The potential of needing to reload in a self-defense scenario is mighty thin. This is more about speedloaders in general than a specific situation. Despite my extensive training and experience with speedloaders, I still prefer a speed strip for a concealed carry reload. They are flatter and far easier to carry and conceal than a speedloader.

DSCN0271.JPG

Bullet profile plays a role in the performance of a speedloader. A round nose, or truncated cone bullet will certainly “feed” more smoothly from a speedloader than any bullet with an exposed driving band. However, not all bullets are equally speedloader friendly. Wadcutters and semi-wadcutters have a sharp ledge created by that forward driving band that is outside the casing. It is that “ledge” that creates the difficulties when using a speedloader with that bullet profile.

DSCN0272.JPG
DSCN0273.JPG

The SWC at least has a smaller nose that helps to guide the cartridges into the individual chambers (charge holes in S&W speak). The full wadcutter can be a bit fussier. There are some designs, such as the double ended SAECO #348, that are far more speedloader friendly.

So, bullet choice plays a role but there’s also the revolver cylinder itself that can affect the process. Adding a slight chamfer to the rear face of the cylinder at each chamber can noticeably improve the speedloader/gun interface. You don’t need, or want, to remove a lot of material. You just need to slightly break that sharp outer edge of the chamber. This modification was well known back in the days of matches involving duty revolvers and speedloaders.

DSCN0274.JPG Note slight chamfer on outer edge of chamber mouth

DSCN0276.JPG Unmodified cylinder with sharp rear edge at chamber mouth

There are different methods to achieve this slight chamfer, but the emphasis is on the word slight. You do not want to get carried away here.

One method is to use a 45-degree cutter with a pilot to center it in the chamber. The cut that is made is very slight.

Another method is to use a ball cutter to just barely break the sharp edge of the chamber mouth.

DSCN0278.JPG

On a gun used exclusively for target shooting, the extractor can be left in place when using the ball cutter method.

When modifying a gun used for self-defense, the extractor is first removed before using either the 45-degree cutter or the ball cutter so that the extractor engagement with the cartridge rim is not compromised. After the chamfers are added to the chambers, the rear “points” of the extractor star are slightly rounded with a file to blend the extractor tips to the chamfers. In this process only the outer edges of the chambers are chamfered. (or "beveled" if you will)

The modified cylinder is far more speedloader friendly, even when using wadcutters.
 
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Jeff H

NW Ohio
Great post!

I use revolvers exclusively for my handgunning needs any more and I do carry extra rounds, whether hunting, woods-bumming, out and about or whatever.

I use cast bullets exclusively in all my guns (except the 223) and NONE of them are RNs.

I shoot WCs, SWCs, RFNs and WFNs.

I do ease the edges of chamber mouths (breech-end) to facilitate more trouble-free reloading, whether using a "speed-loader" or not and it really makes a difference, regardless of what you're reloading.

I use "Speed-Strips," which is proprietary to Bianchi, I think, but don't own one made by Bianchi. I have some generic ones and some made by Tuff Products. No round speed-loaders. Used them for years and the ones that were the most reliable and worked the best also were the most bulky, so I got away from them years ago.

The "strips" I use are 5-shot, 6-shot and 7-shot, the 7-shot being the best for my 5-shot DAs. Load the strip with two, skip one, another two, skip one and then ONE. The gaps really lends to efficiency of getting two at a time (until the last one) into the cylinder faster.

The "strips" also work really well for break-open single-shots. Load one, skip one, load one, skip one, until you run out of spaces on the strip. VERY easy to load with cold fingers and easier to fish a round out of a pocket. The 44 Cal strips work for 30/30 shells and 9mm strips work for any 222-based case.

If one just keeps using them to reload, even for load development and casual plinking, one eventually gets faster at using them. If one tries to go fast and concentrates on fast, it takes longer to get fast. No, not as fast as dropping a mag and jamming another one in behind it, but faster than fumbling with loose rounds and the strips keep the cartridges neatly organized in a pocket.

OK, I haven't griped yet and I can't make a 100% positive post, so MY grips is that they charge WAY too much for these things, Tuff products being about the worst, and t-he only ones I've found who make 7-round strips for my 5-sound DAs, and after several years of use, I can say with no reservation that they work no better than the generic ones I got on eBay for WAY less.

I have never worn one of these things out, all of them seem to work just fine in temps from high-nineties to single-digits. I'd prefer to have them available from every maker in a few crazy colors so that when you drop one in the grass or into a bag they are easier to spot, but I've not lost one in all the years I've been using them either.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I've used about every type of DA Revolver speedloader made. For concealed carry I still perfer the Speed Strip (or equivalent).

Of the conventional speedloaders, I settled on the Safariland types. That isn't any Holy Writ, it's just where I settled. Years ago I needed to land the plane and that's where I landed.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
...Of the conventional speedloaders, I settled on the Safariland types....

I liked the ones which held the rounds tight - no rattling/wiggling and let go of the rims with a push against the back of the ejector.

I could not always find them in the "odd" guns I seemed to prefer.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Safariland speedloaders are a simple push design but unfortunately they don't cover many makes and models of guns.

Here's an old thread:
 
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Walks

Well-Known Member
In My youth, I woods walked/hunted with a Ruger Blackhawk on My hip. Regardless of the rifle I carried, the Backhawk was always there. A speedstrip in each jacket pocket was just about the 3rd of 4th piece of equipment on My packing list.
Have speedloaders for every DA revolver I own, can't remember that last time I used them.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
I know I slipped in the irrelevant comment about using speed strips with a break-action single-shot, so I get it. I use them for SAs too. Definitely a different application, although worthy of merit.

Strictly speaking DAs, I actually find the speed strips handier, easier to tote and pretty darned close to as fast as a regular speed loader.

PLUS, and I forgot to mention this before, I can wiggle and wriggle the WCs/SWCs/WFNs MORE with a strip, to get them started into the holes. I've found that I never try inserting them straight on, but lay the nose in the chamber and twist the square-edged projectiles into the chambers. I can't do that with a speed-loader using the projectile profiles I prefer.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I never did get the hang of speed loaders 1917 clips was as close as I got to any sort of efficiency in use . The H&G #130 seems to work ok .
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Sounds logical that if you need to pull your carry piece and then you need to reload your already screwed.
 

Outpost75

Active Member
The topic of the use of wadcutters and speedloaders came up in another thread. Rather than wildly drift that thread, I thought I would delve into that issue here.

First, allow me to address the elephant in the room. The potential of needing to reload in a self-defense scenario is mighty thin. This is more about speedloaders in general than a specific situation. Despite my extensive training and experience with speedloaders, I still prefer a speed strip for a concealed carry reload. They are flatter and far easier to carry and conceal than a speedloader.

View attachment 37031

Bullet profile plays a role in the performance of a speedloader. A round nose, or truncated cone bullet will certainly “feed” more smoothly from a speedloader than any bullet with an exposed driving band. However, not all bullets are equally speedloader friendly. Wadcutters and semi-wadcutters have a sharp ledge created by that forward driving band that is outside the casing. It is that “ledge” that creates the difficulties when using a speedloader with that bullet profile.

View attachment 37032
View attachment 37033

The SWC at least has a smaller nose that helps to guide the cartridges into the individual chambers (charge holes in S&W speak). The full wadcutter can be a bit fussier. There are some designs, such as the double ended SAECO #348, that are far more speedloader friendly.

So, bullet choice plays a role but there’s also the revolver cylinder itself that can affect the process. Adding a slight chamfer to the rear face of the cylinder at each chamber can noticeably improve the speedloader/gun interface. You don’t need, or want, to remove a lot of material. You just need to slightly break that sharp outer edge of the chamber. This modification was well known back in the days of matches involving duty revolvers and speedloaders.

View attachment 37034 Note slight chamfer on outer edge of chamber mouth

View attachment 37035 Unmodified cylinder with sharp rear edge at chamber mouth

There are different methods to achieve this slight chamfer, but the emphasis is on the word slight. You do not want to get carried away here.

One method is to use a 45-degree cutter with a pilot to center it in the chamber. The cut that is made is very slight.

Another method is to use a ball cutter to just barely break the sharp edge of the chamber mouth.

View attachment 37036

On a gun used exclusively for target shooting, the extractor can be left in place when using the ball cutter method.

When modifying a gun used for self-defense, the extractor is first removed before using either the 45-degree cutter or the ball cutter so that the extractor engagement with the cartridge rim is not compromised. After the chamfers are added to the chambers, the rear “points” of the extractor star are slightly rounded with a file to blend the extractor tips to the chamfers. In this process only the outer edges of the chambers are chamfered. (or "beveled" if you will)

The modified cylinder is far more speedloader friendly, even when using wadcutters.
This is how I was trained and how my revolvers are tweaked. Double-end, bevel-based wadcutter such as Saeco #348 is speed loader and speed strip friendly.
 

Walks

Well-Known Member
I haven't seen a watch pocket in a pair of pants since pre-disco.
Just saying, unless you're taking about Levi's 501's.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
I haven't seen a watch pocket in a pair of pants since pre-disco.
Just saying, unless you're taking about Levi's 501's.

Or Wrangler or Lee. Every pair of jeans I have has a watch pocket. Haven't bought Levi since they moved to sweat shops in China and the quality went to hell.
 

Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Watch pockets for me are where my folding knife and a mini flashlight go. I use both multiple times a day. Saves digging/fumbling in with the keys, change, folding money etc.