Wiring

[Brad]

Back when I got the lathe I had a 60 amp panel put in the garage. It happens to be right next to my casting bench. I have longed for a few more outlets close to the bench so I could eliminate an extension cord. I also tired of needing to unplug the hotplate before turning on my fan in order to prevent popping the breaker.
I didn't want to pay an electrician to run conduit and wire the outlets on the concrete block wall. I finally decided to grab the bull by the horns and get the job done today.
Took 3 trips to get supplies and about 4 hours to get the job done. Half of the time was cutting and fitting conduit. I will freely admit I am no expert at runnng site thru conduit, I actually pretty much suck at it.

In the end it was worth the effort. I have 2 outlets, each on a dedicated circuit. One 20 amp for the hot plate or other high wattage devices. The other a 15 amp for the pot and fan.

Outlets are firmly attached to the wall above and behind the bench within easy reach. They are 16 inches apart and in places for easy reach for the cord from the appropriate device.

No fires, no shocks, and the outlets work! Makes me happy.

 

[Ian]

No pictures?

I usually chicken out and use PVC stuff when I have to surface mount a circuit. PVC is cheap and easy, but not as fire-proof or damage-resistant as steel.

 

[freebullet]

You didn't break your arm or anything....so proud.

Need to do the same myself.

 

[Brad]

I probably ought to clean up the mess I created in doing this. Thank God for hammer drills.
And yes, the vertical conduit next to the panel is a little out of plumb. It bugs me too.

 

[freebullet]

Huh, at least mine aren't alone lol.

 

[Ian]

Hammer drills, cordless impact drivers, and Tapcon screws rock. The crooked conduit doesn't bother me one bit, as we used to say when installing custom cabinets "it looks good from my house!". I'm wondering why the the plastic covers, though, instead of galvanized steel?

 

[Brad]

Just what I grabbed? The other outlets in the garage have white plastic covers so I went with a consistant look.
I didn't use Tapcons, I used a plastic wall anchor. I have used Tapcons for many things and they are awesome. They are holding a TV to the wall downstairs. They also are holding pegboard above the work bench.

A cordless impact driver is something I don't own. Probably need to fix that.

 

[freebullet]

Time to go shopping.

I picked up a set of ridgid 18v lithium ion tools including Sawzall, circular, impact, 1/2" hammer drill driver, & a nice led work light. Plus an battery. Very rugged & reliable 3 years in. We use the heck out of them & they've impressed me. Not cheap but, so handy I can't imagine not having them. I use them hard.

 

[Rick]

I'm wondering why the the plastic covers, though, instead of galvanized steel?

That was my first thought also. Behind the bench like that they will get broken probably sooner rather than later.

Didn't notice the crooked conduit but now that you mention it . . .
.

 

[Ian]

I've been 1000% satisfied with my Ryobi tools. Put in 225 lbs of 3" screws with ONE of the old blue Ryobi impact drivers, and lost count of how many deck screws, drywall screws, and roof screws I put in with it before finally wearing it out. Bought another one for the same $69 and then batteries quadrupled in price since they just came out with the new lithium batteries. So last year I got a set of the lime green drill and impact w/charger and two of the standard batteries for $129 and like them almost as much. The new impact doesn't have the hammering power that the old style did, I can actually bog it to a stop (it still hammers, but doesn't turn) and the drill's brake is so good that it unwinds the chuck if I let off the trigger too fast, but the batteries hold a charge for weeks and run strong right to the end. DeWalt makes a great cordless impact, but it's heavy and expensive.

I ordered a 10.5 amp SDS Max hammer drill last week for running a 1.5 x 21" rock drill, can't wait to see how it works out. The job is setting about 200 8' tee posts in solid crystalline limestone caprock.

 

[freebullet]

I've never got more than a year of use out of the traditional batteries. We use them commercially & I find the li-on battery worth the cost.

You can order them for less if you look around & watch. There is a joint that sells used ones in Omaha. My father purchased a used set that can share batteries with my set for 1/7th cost of new. I'll ask him the name of the joint.

 

[fiver]

I got a set of 20V battery tools from kobalt and love them.
the lithium ion battery's run full tilt until they are done then they charge in like 20 minutes.
I got the saws-all, light, drill, and smaller impact driver with the set.
the drill takes 1/2" bit's and has 2 speeds.
I've tried wearing everything right out but it all keeps on going just fine, I used the saws all to cut down some [about 10] 4" tree branches and cut them into fire wood and still have half a charge on the battery.
I wish I'd got the circular saw with it now.

I tossed the old Ryobi and I think the 12 V ridged drill is gonna follow shortly, unless I can get a new battery.

 

[waco]

I'm becoming a fan of Porter Cable stuff myself.

Nice work Brad!

 

[JonB]

I'm a Milwaukee fan myself...but whatever brand, the Lith Ion batteries are a game changer for sure.

A couple years ago, I got a cordless 20v lith Ion battery powered Black and Decker weed whip. came with two batteries. I've bought a cheapo B & D drill, just cause I have those batteries. The drill is a bit cheesy compared to the milwaukee that cost 10 times the price, I guess that is to be expected...but the B & D has it's uses.

 

[Pistolero]

Good job. No magic in that stuff and a LOT of money can be saved. Conduit is a PITA.

Bill

 

[smokeywolf]

In the late '80s, I used to purchase Milwaukee "sawsalls" and "hole shooters" for the maintenance depts. at Metrocolor.

Milwaukee now has most, if not all of their powertools made in China.

I'm currently using Ryobi dirill/drivers. Finally had to buy a new circular saw. Bought a Skil worm drive w/magnesium shoe.

 

[popper]

You assemble all your EMT tubing without connecting it, drop 2 strings with weight through the stuff, then assemble in place. Use one string to pull the wires through - leave the other for the next job. PVC isn't code for electrical unless you are using Romex style wire.