A little 30 caliber casting

[Glaciers]

Yesterday afternoon I cast From a Lyman 311316, 311041 and a NOE 311-165 FN. The 311041 drops nice bullets almost right from the start, 60 keepers with about 8 culls. One cavity hung on to a bullet consistently for a while, then just started releasing like the other cavity. Just one or at most 2 taps and out. The NOE is my only brass mold and after breaking in and pre-heating drops very nice bullets which just fall out.
The 311316 is a different story . It has been sitting around for about 40 years (bought it for a 32-20 Winchester,but never used it) and had a slight, I'm going to call it a film of rust. Some outside and more in both of the cavities. I got out my Dremal tool with a nylon brush and carefully went at it. Got the mold clean as I could inside and out. There was a slight touch of rust coloring in against the gas check and lube edge/corners/crevices. It dropped good bullets, but one cavity really hangs on to a casting, the other cavity falls out. I have not found where it's holding yet, but will get out the magnifying glass and give it a look this morning. I'm hoping someone here has a suggestion for bringing this mold back to newish condition.
I'm going to make a town run this morning and should be back by mid day. This afternoon I'm hoping to make some Ben's Red and BLL to try out. Might try some Hi-Tec also.
Was rolling a coffee can down the snow field with a Winchester loaded with LEE 311-113 FN bullets and 8 grains of Unique Wednesday and can't wait for the snow to go away. Then it's mud, but, OK. Quite a few loads ready to test out.

 

[fiver]

I bet you got a little rust pitting in a corner and it's locking the bullet in place.
might be able to grind down a popsicle stick and use some steel wool to break the rust spot down enough to cast well.

as far as the outside... heat plain old heat will add a rust bluing easy enough which will mimic the bluing on a rifle close-nuff.

 

[Ben]

Put a coarse thread screw with the head cut off in the approximate
center of the base of the bullet.
Drill a hole about half the length of the bullet with a drill bit that is slightly
smaller than the diameter of your screw. Now put the screw in the base of
the bullet that is coated with Fine Clover's abrasive compound ( available at any good auto parts store ).

Spin the coated bullet slowly in the mould for about 20 revolutions.
The bullets will " jump out " of the mould when you're finished with this
technique.

This will work with any brand of mould, steel, brass, or aluminum.
Just don't over do it or you'll end up with an enlarged mould cavity.

Ben

 

[Fiddler]

Take the sprue plate off and balance a 1/4 or 5/16" hex nut over the cavity(s) and pour. Apply a little fine abrasive and use the hex to turn the lap/bullet in both directions, that should clear any bur or rust spots.

 

[Ben]

That will also work !

Ben

 

[John]

The first thing I do with an older unused mold is get an old #2 pencil. I have saved wood ones for a while. Sharpen the pencil and go over all the mold and face with the lead. Then break off the lead and erase it all with the wood. It removes a lot of small burrs and acts as a lube somewhat. .