Clean barrel??

L Ross

Well-Known Member
My anally retentive gun smith friend loathes the concept of .22 priming compound and powder debris laying in the bottom of his barrel. He puts a cut off Q-Tip in the chamber and blows it through with compressed air. He has a bore scope and is nuts in a very good way.
I run one patch soaked with Ed's Red on a 17 caliber jag followed by one dry patch and I don't find any need to shoot a bunch of rounds through it to reestablish good grouping.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
My anally retentive gun smith friend loathes the concept of .22 priming compound and powder debris laying in the bottom of his barrel. He puts a cut off Q-Tip in the chamber and blows it through with compressed air. He has a bore scope and is nuts in a very good way.
I run one patch soaked with Ed's Red on a 17 caliber jag followed by one dry patch and I don't find any need to shoot a bunch of rounds through it to reestablish good grouping.
Back when CMP was selling Remington 40X's and Winchester Model 52D's cheap, I bought several of each as I was shooting BR50 at the time, 1990's. The were from the day of "never clean the bore" and ROTC. All had half bore "shadows" in front of the chamber. None ever came close to shooting as well as a put together Remington Model 37 civilian rifle.

Your gunsmith friend is correct; bore needs to be clean every couple of thousand rounds.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Back when CMP was selling Remington 40X's and Winchester Model 52D's cheap, I bought several of each as I was shooting BR50 at the time, 1990's. The were from the day of "never clean the bore" and ROTC. All had half bore "shadows" in front of the chamber. None ever came close to shooting as well as a put together Remington Model 37 civilian rifle.

Your gunsmith friend is correct; bore needs to be clean every couple of thousand rounds.
Well both he and I remove the debris immediately after a shooting session now. Takes a couple of minutes. My Kidd 10-22 gets a Hoppe's bore snake and a squirt of Hornady One Shot cleaner on it. The other .22's get the 17 rod and jag and one wet one dry loose patch.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Now that (I think) I've assembled the small collection of barrels I intend to used for the remainder of my shooting days...

I'm really just working an experiment which started about 2008, which will continue until I can no longer reach or open the actions of my guns.

I shoot all cast and mostly 45/45/10 or Ben's BLL on wheel weights, 50/50 wheel weights/pure lead, or whatever scrounged, mongrel "alloy" will melt in my pot and pour nice bullets. PC, reserved for the suppressed carbine.

I'll give the bores one in/out swipe with a JUST DAMP/not-dripping patch of Ed's Red, let it sit "a while" and then run a dry patch through. I'm down to probably less than an ounce of the original Break-Free, so I don't use it other than for aroma-therapy.

It is often a long time between range sessions for a given barrel, so I feel I have to do SOMETHING, just in case I don't shoot a given gun again for two years.

The only reason I can give for this particular regimen is that it just seems like the thing to do. Can't say it helps, but I'm fairly confident that it doesn't hurt.
 

BBerguson

Official Pennsyltuckian
Maybe this is the answer to my 44 magnum woes. I don’t clean the barrel but maybe I just need a lot more rounds through it. I’ve been teaching a kid how to reload and letting him shoot what he loads. Maybe I should let him load and fire a few hundred rounds through it and see if it improves.
 

Mainiac

Well-Known Member
From my years of br shooting,and allowing copper to iron into bore,,,i clean every bore i shoot,,,i mean clean,down to bare steel.
I enjoy cleaning my tools.

I was big into flintlocks for a while,,them have to be cleaned,,so its just a habit,i guess.

But, i know my guns shoot very well.
 

Rockydoc

Well-Known Member
The handling of shotgun shells with sweaty hands causes the chambers of my Browning Superposed to rust, so I clean and oil the chambers after each hunt/shoot. My Miroku over/under has chrome lined barrels so not a problem with it.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I just cleaned my Marlin SQ barrel... Its a Marlin 7000 barrelled action in crap stock. But I re stocked to a pretty and great shooting HB bolt "22".

Anyhow. No issues with how it shot BUT MAN I had about a 1-2" tight spot 3/4 of the way down, that I'm assuming, was lead and fouling. I could hardly get a patch thru. At first I thought I just had a dry patch... Nope a sopping patch stopped nearly dead!! Ran a nylon brush and cleared that out. Now I wanna try it again!

Last group @ 50 was a ragged 3/8" W/EPS eley

CW
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
that's the relax point of the bullet,, and lube smears build up right there.
you just found exactly what i was looking for in my earlier post.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Yup, after several wet patches/ nylon brush and dry, bore is still filthy 3/4 way. Patches come out pretty clean so time for bronze brush.
barrel march1.jpg
 

quicksylver

Well-Known Member
i get that same 'my barrel is dirty' with shot gun shooters.
it's really only as dirty as the ash from the last shot.
unless your gonna stand there pushing a cleaning rod through it after every shot it's gonna be dirty.
Shotguns get a lot of built up plastic residue in the choke area from the wads .good idea to clean it out once and awhile
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
they did, then they come along with scientists and worked on the polymers.
if your getting wad fouling your using 40 year old crap wads, or taper wall wads in a straight wad hull with a ball type powder.
that ain't the wads fault.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
When I started hunting, 48 yr ago we were still loading RXP12 wads in paper base RP green hulls with #57 primers ,and paper Federal hulls with 209As .

I have had exactly 2 shotguns attract plastic to the barrel . 1 had been coated in factory forest camo and had some very rough "over spray" about 1/3 of the way down the barrel . We never did get that cleaned up we just filled it up with DGF (graphite faux carbon fill) . With that fix the barrel stopped getting the plastic strings . Unfortunately being intended for a turkey gun not a youth model the barrel was ported and it wasn't long before the ports looked like they were growing moss .
 

Ian

Notorious member
Put some floor wax or melt some carnauba flakes in with your LLA and you get clean, rustproof, AND waxed at the same time. I have to laugh at folks that spend money on those tiny little jars of RIG grease when they likely have a half dozen bottles of LLA in the cupboard and two tubes of calcium marine grease in the garage they could be using instead. LLA in a hot barrel is just about the best rustproofing there is.