cleaning up an old Lyman 45

[Kevin Stenberg]

like the title says I am rejuvenating an old Lyman 45. Everything is degreased and ready to be painted.
My question is what do I put on the non painted surfaces? There are only 2 surfaces the res. tube and the 2 alignment rods. I was thinking powdered graphite. Kevin

 

[Missionary]

Greetings
Everything that looks like cast iron gets painted. Anything that is machined gets oiled.
Mike in Peru

 

[Ian]

^^^ A truism for most machines. Another is if it slides, grease it, if it spins, oil it, if it stands still, paint it.

 

[S Mac]

I have been using Liquid Wrench chain and cable lube, a spray can. Seem to leave a nice film that stays with it for a while.

 

[RicinYakima]

I'm with Ian. Epoxy enamel paint, Lubriplate 1200-2 for grease and synthetic automatic tranny fluid for oil. If rusty, Red's Red for a couple of years first.

 

[JonB]

For the repainting session, I would use painters tape on the reservoir (or remove the reservoir, but that's tricky and easily destroyed).
The slides are easy to remove, so I'd remove those during painting...as well as all the thumbscrews and set screws.
I would apply thick axle grease to any threaded areas, and where the slides go in, as well as the area where the die mates too.
The painted grease is easily removed after the paint is dry.

Or if you are talking about the long term? after the casting is painted.
I oil the blued Reservoir exterior with gun oil...like a gun barrel.
I also use gun oil on the slides.

 

[smokeywolf]

A truism for most machines. Another is if it slides, grease it, if it spins, oil it, if it stands still, paint it.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Like RicinYakima I'm a fan of Lubriplate products. Also use a number of oils which include: LPS #1 & 3, STP, Mitchell Camera oil, Mobil Vactra "way oil", synthetic 2 stroke oil.

 

[Ben]

Here is a " before and after photo " of the same Lyman 45.
These 2 photos are of a project that I did about 2 yrs. ago.

I gave this puppy a " Major Face lift."
A lot of degreaser, pressure washing, etc.
All rust removed, re-lubed.
Once clean, it gets 3 coats of Enamel.
Looks good as new and also works good as new.

 

[Brother_Love]

Ben,
That looks great. I still use one of those, it is my favorite bullet sizer. Mine is about due for another re-building.

Malcolm

 

[Ben]

Malcolm,

Believe me, If I can do what you see above,........ anyone can.

Ben

 

[smokeywolf]

Ben, I believe you could have designed that sizer and turned right around and built the prototype from scrap and spare parts laying around your shop.

 

[Kevin Stenberg]

I was lucky. The wife had bought an orange color to paint some flowers. Her yard decorations. That was exactly the same as factory new color. Last coat is going on today. Tonight reassembly, tomorrow I will have a new nose first PC sizer.

 

[Ben]

Ben, I believe you could have designed that sizer and turned right around and built the prototype from scrap and spare parts laying around your shop.

You're VERY kind with your words.

Ben

 

[KHornet]

I use my 45 for 22's/and 6mm's. Use the newer Lymans and
RCBS lubers for the bigger cals.

 

[Ian]

tomorrow I will have a new nose first PC sizer.

Sweet. The 45s excel at that. The later versions with the goofy short ram and cam-over linkage tend to push things crooked. Keep an eye on that handle pivot bolt and see that it doesn't work loose on you, it can back off and "waller" the threads in the cast iron out before you know it.

 

[Gary]

General question about the Lyman 45; will the dies for a 4500 fit and work in the 45?

 

[Ian]

Gary--yes. So will RCBS dies, but you might have to sand down the bottom taper to get it all the way flush.

 

[Gary]

Thanks Ian, that's what I suspected. Now to get the "45" tuned.