GC base too small

Ian

Notorious member
Why doesn’t anyone understand the right nswer?

Buy a lathe or mill, spend a hundreds more on tooling, and you too can fix the mould. Think of the money saved by not paying someone to do it for you!

I understand....

20 grand and countless hours of study and practice later I can single-point vent lines, bore cavities, make cherries from tool steel rod, heat treat and hone them, make blocks, pins, screws, and sprue plates from scratch, hollow point, inset bar hollow point, make hollow base or nose pour moulds, make companion sizing dies to fit a press or lube-sizer, nose punches, uniforming dies, plus custom expanding dies, neck sizing inserts, in-line expanding and seating dies, and so on.

The machines are relatively inexpensive. The tooling and instruments are what get ya, because when you're chasing tenths inside a mould cavity or tramming blocks in the mill, only the best will do.

This brings up another point. On occasion I offer to repair or alter a mould for someone for free, and they invariably want to pay me for the services. I have to refuse because a fair price for even a simple job is several times the cost of the mould. An hour or two spent fixing the problems the mould has that prevent accurate alignment and setup, an hour or two more of setup time, time solving problems, maybe grind a special tool, 30 seconds to make the cut, a few minutes to measure the results, $10-15 in electricity to run all the lights and machines for the several hours, and I've already worked my full time job and commuted two hours that day, you couldn't possibly justify in the value of a bullet mould enough to pay me "what it's worth" or what a job shop would charge for the same quality of work. Removing or enlarging a gas check shank--ACCURATELY--is probably a $250 job by the time the alignment issues are corrected, the top face of the blocks are skimmed off perpendicular to the Z-axis of the cavity (moulds are usually not bored straight to begin with unless Tom, Veral, or Miha made it), and the main features of the cavity cavity are set up and adjusted so they are perfectly centered with the spindle on the X and Y axis. Sure, you can just clamp it up in a squared mill vise, find center with your wiggler or edge finder, and bore our the gas check shank but it's kind of a waste of time unless the mould is first tuned up and then set up perfectly true to begin with. I refuse to charge because IF I take on a job it's part of my fun hobby and we both get happy for only a few bucks in freight and electricity.

Oh, and despite what Brad implied, the equipment WILL pay for itself eventually if you put it to work fixing your guns and making reloading and casting tools. I have a little lathe that I've modified a bit that I gave $700 brand new in the crate and with it have rebarreled and rechambered a multitude of rifles, threaded a dozen or more muzzles, recrowned more than that, milled dovetails, fixed or modified dozens of bullet moulds, made heaps of reloading tooling, and so on. It paid for itself and a lot of tooling in gunsmith fees with the first three guns I fixed with it, and I didn't have to wait for the work to be done or waste time commuting to the 'smith.
 
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JBinMN

Member
While a good many options have been offered, I will just suggest something easy to do, although might seem tedious....
Until you decide if ya want to modify the mold to make the GC shank larger in some way, how about trying something as simple as just taking some of whatever color of nail polish ya find easy & cheap to get, & just using the lil brush for the polish & giving a little coat to the base of the bullet or even the GC shank, and letting the two sit for a little bit to dry & stick, to see if that makes them stick together like glue.
Heck, even a tiny drop of superglue or the like.
Just to try it & get ya by until ya decide to do something more.
Seems to me that it might be worth a try if it works & you are up to trying it.Sounds like adding PC did not do what ya wanted, but maybe "glueing" them together would be a simple/easy/inexpensive fix.

And as Dusty B. mentioned, even without trying the "glue" type deal, putting the GC end in first on the bullet into a Lee type push thru sizer and running it thru the sizer might help crimp the GC on the bullet.... Or even trying both.

Hey, just trying to help. Certainly, do as ya like.

( I know I would be trying the "glue on" deal, one way or the other if there is not issue in any way with what I wanted to do, before I started trying to mess around with the mold, or getting it done "professionally", simply because it is an easy & "no harm to the mold" deal to try & if it works, fine...Good.
If not, then move on to more measures to "accomplish the mission"
.
Like many say, YMMV, of course. :)
As I said, Just trying to help, if I can.
 

sundog

Active Member
Pretty sure Erik Ohlen can fix that for you.
His website is here.
I contacted Erik via email and he replied promptly with an estimate. I think I will take this route as a permanent fix for a mold that will eventually go to my son. Won't be any 'screwin-round with it' for someone else to get workable bullets.

I thought about beagling as John suggested, but I think the permanent fix is 'mo betta' in this case as this is a good mold that will last a long time. Ideal for 35 Rem and 35 Whelen.

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas. Discussions like this really keep the grey matter functioning.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
:headscratch: They do offer small shank gas checks, Sage's used to carry them, and still might. Haven't checked.

Another simpler option is to PC your bullets without the check installed.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
I can't recall any of my GC moulds having shanks too small for Hornady checks, but a significant number of my Lyman moulds of all vintages are fat-shanked. Some years back I bought a set of the NOE Gas Check Flaring Tools, and those little gizzies are a godsend. 30 and 35 caliber molds are the worst offenders IME.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Use a lot of GC molds. Never ran across an oversized GC shank. Undersize, occasionally. However, I only own one Lyman mould and it's a PB.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
the 410610 is notorious for having a big GC shank.
IIRC they [gator] even makes a thinner larger inner diameter check for it.
i sit there and punch mine open with a tool i ground before Brad's NOE invention.
 

Rockydoc

Well-Known Member
Since the OP has powder coating in his skill set, I wonder if that bullet with a check in place is any more accurate than the bullet powder coated without a gas check? If not, then just powder coat them and shoot 'em and forget about the checks.
 

sundog

Active Member
Rockydoc, good thought but I already mulled that over. One of the barrels this bullet will pass through will be a microgroove Marlin in 35 Rem. Its going to need all the 'hep' it can get.

My normal procedure is crimp a check but not size (Lyman 450 w/GC seater), then PC (clear and thin, from Smoke over at the other place), then push thru sizer. The PC not only coats, but 'glues' that GC in place. Just my way of doing it.

Besides, the mold is already headed to Oregon for a little 'touch up' on the GC shank to make things right. Whoever is lucky enough to get to use it after me (probably my son) will more than likely appreciate it being in spec.
 

JBinMN

Member
I do not know how to quote, but I will try a different way to get what I want to say across.

From RockyDoc/Yesterday at 3:32 PM :

Since the OP has powder coating in his skill set, I wonder if that bullet with a check in place is any more accurate than the bullet powder coated without a gas check? If not, then just powder coat them and shoot 'em and forget about the checks.

-----------------------

Some do just that & have success.

I am not good enough to know enough/better about PCing.

Note - (I am more of a Lube guy.)

Good thing to suggest though.

Some do better than others.
;)
 
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fiver

Well-Known Member
how to quote..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................^^^^^^^^^^^^

see above the arrows to the right.
there's a thingy there that says +quote click that
then you'll get a little box down to the bottom of your reply box that asks if you want to insert the quote.
if you push insert quote it'll appear in your reply when you push the blue post reply thingy down there.
 

JBinMN

Member
how to quote..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................^^^^^^^^^^^^

see above the arrows to the right.
there's a thingy there that says +quote click that
then you'll get a little box down to the bottom of your reply box that asks if you want to insert the quote.
if you push insert quote it'll appear in your reply when you push the blue post reply thingy down there.
OK.. Thanks. I think I got it now.
:)