got a question.
- Thread starter fiver
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freebullet
Guest
Don't look like anyone's admitting to it but, I have faith you could. The question is how much duct tape will be needed?
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
IIRC, and it's been some time since I was inside an Arisaka, the set up is similar. Before doing anything else I'd see WHY the Arisaka is so heavy. Could be something simple that can be fixed with some file and stone work. The trigger on my Arisaka breaks cleanly at about 4-5 lbs, it can be done.
fiver
there is a thread at castboolits about using a ball bearing to make the trigger adjustable, of course all the pictures have been scrapped. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...&highlight=mauser+mod+98+trigger+modification
I also have an article in an old American rifleman with pictures, if needed i can scan it to a .pdf
Chuck
there is a thread at castboolits about using a ball bearing to make the trigger adjustable, of course all the pictures have been scrapped. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...&highlight=mauser+mod+98+trigger+modification
I also have an article in an old American rifleman with pictures, if needed i can scan it to a .pdf
Chuck
fiver
Well-Known Member
I bet that modification is super similar to the Huber ball triggers.
I put one of them in my hunting rifle and fiddled with it until I got a good trigger pull.
I think the Arisaka just sticks up real high on the release for the bolt.
I had fiddled with the spring and done a little bit of stone work in that area and got about 3 lbs out of the weight initially.
but I'm not super familiar with what I need to be doing or where I should be doing it.
I put one of them in my hunting rifle and fiddled with it until I got a good trigger pull.
I think the Arisaka just sticks up real high on the release for the bolt.
I had fiddled with the spring and done a little bit of stone work in that area and got about 3 lbs out of the weight initially.
but I'm not super familiar with what I need to be doing or where I should be doing it.
The article I have from the Amer Rifleman, uses a ball, the trigger is cut and the sear is ground(machined) for vertical clearance, then a hole is drilled and tapped in the trigger guard to adjust sear engagement..the ones we are in the process(Slow) of doing now, we welded a plate on the trigger, and will drill and tap for sear engagement, then drill and tap where the sear spring is for overtravel...I have a tube of coil springs form Brownell's and will try to adjust the trigger pull weight by lightening the sear spring
I am not sure any of this will work on an Arisaka trigger, they cannot be uncocked by pulling the trigger and letting the bolt handle down
attached is the PDF of the article and the trigger in process
I am not sure any of this will work on an Arisaka trigger, they cannot be uncocked by pulling the trigger and letting the bolt handle down
attached is the PDF of the article and the trigger in process
JWFilips
Well-Known Member
fiver,
My Arisaka is pretty old (Made 1st decade of the 20th century) It ended its military life as a bring back from the Korean war.
I was surprised the trigger is as good as it is. I never tested it but It is enjoyable to shoot. I do know that the amount of protrusion that comes up into the bolt recess is rather small ( I think this is why it is so easy to shoot) I do not know if it is original wear, if it was damaged or someone worked it sometime in it's past! I do know when it came back from Korea the firing pin was bobbed and it just sat around as an old war relic ( until I inherited it. Anyway The trigger is still save but it is rather light for an Ex milsup
My Arisaka is pretty old (Made 1st decade of the 20th century) It ended its military life as a bring back from the Korean war.
I was surprised the trigger is as good as it is. I never tested it but It is enjoyable to shoot. I do know that the amount of protrusion that comes up into the bolt recess is rather small ( I think this is why it is so easy to shoot) I do not know if it is original wear, if it was damaged or someone worked it sometime in it's past! I do know when it came back from Korea the firing pin was bobbed and it just sat around as an old war relic ( until I inherited it. Anyway The trigger is still save but it is rather light for an Ex milsup
fiver
Well-Known Member
okay that PDF gives me an idea.
I think maybe I can work the bushing angle and see if that helps.
that ball and stop thing is kind of out of my tool shop capabilities, but if the bushing helps i'll know where to work, if not well,,, i'll probably just save up and get an aftermarket trigger and fit it in place.
I think maybe I can work the bushing angle and see if that helps.
that ball and stop thing is kind of out of my tool shop capabilities, but if the bushing helps i'll know where to work, if not well,,, i'll probably just save up and get an aftermarket trigger and fit it in place.