Ideal 245496

[JonB]

When this mold arrived (from Brad, one of Paul's from his collection), I was surprised to see it was Plain Base. This may be a good thing, as my only other 243 mold is a NOE 75gr FN, GC style. I did some casting with it yesterday, as I cleaned it and mounted a set of handles, I noticed the blocks mating was a bit loose. I figured I would try casting with it "as is", just in cast it was fine as is.

That session went well, the bullet dropped with a light tap on the hinge, but noticed that about half of the bullets were a bit out-of-round. So afterward, I tapped the alignment pins out a tiny bit, until the blocks felt tight.

I cast with it again today. The bullets are now all coming out a bit out-of-round (.246 x .248), which is more than I like, but maybe it won't matter with the distances I'd be shooting light loads with Plain base bullets?

 

[Ben]

After your " adjustment to the blocks " are you able to see any light when the blocks are closed ?

 

[Matt]

The out of roundness with my Lyman 245496 (also single cavity) was worse than yours. I adjusted alignment pins carefully and repeatedly with no real improvement. I could not get the mold to close fully, with the pins adjusted to extend more the blocks would “lock” closed. I was very frustrated so I set it aside for a bit. When I got back to the mold it was very clear to me that the blocks had been dropped and the slightest amount of metal on the lower “front” corner had been extruded keeping the blocks from closing and causing the bind that locked the blocks together.

I used 600 grit paper on a flat piece of granite and after suprisingly few strokes the extrusion on both blocks was removed with a small bright spot on the only evidence it was ever there. I readjusted my alignment pins and the blocks were flush. I did have to search through my handles to find an old pair of small or single cavity Lyman handles for best operation.

The mold casts a nicely round bullet in my alloy at .2455” on the part line and .245” opposite the part line. I size and gas check at .244” with Ben’s Red
for up to about 1600 FPS in my Pre 64 M70 FWT.
I get 100 yards groups under 2 inches. In 6 PPC I can almost keep 5 shots in 10 inches........unsized and tumble lubed (no gas check) with 5 grains of Bullseye it gives about 2 inches at 50 yards. I have found the 245496 painstaking to cast; mold temp is important as is adding tin if it won’t fill out. I use solder as my source of tin.

I consider my 245496 a work in progress, my goal when I bought it was to make my 6PPC shoot MOA out to 200 yards. After a year I’m not close.

 

[JonB]

After your " adjustment to the blocks " are you able to see any light when the blocks are closed ?

not any more than usual...there is a hairline sliver of light.

 

[Ben]

For 50 yard work, may work out just fine.

Ben

 

[JWFilips]

Over the years, Paul sent me number of cast bullets from that mold to use in my Ruger 77V
I just sized them in my .246" push thru and back then I was pan lubing with Ben's Red.
I was shooting light 50 yd loads ( as I usually do) and they shot great. But I also gas checked a number and shot them fast with 14 gr 2400
That produced some nice hundred yard groups

 

[JonB]

I TL'd the bullets from the first casting session. I suppose I should do something with them

 

[Maven]

Someone altered that mould, Jon as my Lyman #245496 has a gas check shank although it is not pronounced. Without a GC, sized to fit your gun, and tumble lubed under say 7gr. Unique it should be quite accurate.

 

[CZ93X62]

The 243 has been a delight for me with both castings and redcoats. It wants to be accurate. The Tikka is my fourth 243, and remains unfired so far. The prior three 243s all were SUPERB shooters with both the RCBS #6mm-95-SP and the Lyman #245496.

IME all of the smaller-than-30-caliber Loverin designs like Lyman #2 alloy; add a bit of tin to your alloy. I add 1/2# of tin to 20# of 92/6/2 for casting #225438, #245496, or #266469. I bump the casting temp up a bit, too--from 675*-680* to the 725*-730* range. Fastidiously-clean cavities are ESSENTIAL to success with all of the Loverin designs, too. No smoking, no graphite sprays, no oils or residues. I have run the #225438 to 2400 FPS and the #245496 to 2100 FPS with 1.2-1.5 MOA results to 200 yards. .245" sizing (confirmed) and Canauba Red lube. If I can do that using Greasy Kid Stuff, all of you painters and platers should have no trouble getting similar or better outcomes.

 

[Elric]

Fastidiously-clean cavities are ESSENTIAL to success with all of the Loverin designs, too. No smoking, no graphite sprays, no oils or residues.

I'm not OCD. I smoke my 285448 [hard to get a good draw], using wood matches. I used a butane grill lighter for awhile, but it left a slightly oily soot. Went back to kitchen matches. I have thought of using mold prep on my ladle, though. Store my molds in MTM ammo cans, bottom is lined with VCI paper.