New 462-420 HB

[RBHarter]

I don't expect to have any issues with this mould . (For the money I shouldn't ) .
But if I should run things a muck where should I look first ?
I have a wash , heat ,cool ,heat ,cool ,heat , cool , pre heat , toss 5 pours , cast 5-7# , cull 25% , fill the pot , repeat the preheat and pour some more cull 10% because I'm more picky than I used to be routine .
I remember now why I've hedged away from brass after reading a number of inconclusive threads at the old place with assorted instructionals that range from open the box , add handles , get it hot and dump some lead in it to a 12 hr process of multiple cleanings and baking 3-5 cakes , (sarc reference to long long long heat cycles) with complete disassembly .

That other thingy is a Pat Marlin pocket luber for maxi/Minnie balls in 50 cal.

Open to suggestions for ease of transition from AL to Brass with pauses for iron .

 

[Rick]

I know a lot of people jump through hoops with new molds but I've never seen a need to, not brass, aluminum or iron. I clean it with warm denatured alcohol and a clean tooth brush, assemble and pre-heat in a mold oven. Start casting & have never experienced any of the supposed problems a new mold is supposed to cause. As our very own Khornet says . . . . If it ain't broke don't fix it. The only other thing I do is use anti-seize or a two cycle oil on all threads going into aluminum or brass.

Get it clean and get the spuds and sprue plate to a good casting temp and you'll be a happy camper. Or maybe a happy caster works better here.
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[gman]

I have one brass mold. I have found that preheating a little warmer than my aluminum molds and pouring quicker helps.

 

[Brad]

Hate to say it but other than a quick cleaning none of mine get special treatment.
Last 3 Al moulds I didn't even clean, just put handles on and get me hot. Hot plate got them pretty warm then start casting. Within 15 pours the bullets come out good to go.