Spue plate screw backing out.

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Not sure where this should be put because I could not find an interactive Forum on repair. So forgive me if it is in the wrong place.

I have a Lee 2 cavity .358 158grain RF mould. It had a lot of issues and I fixed them all but one. It was well used an completely ragged out. Totally reconditioned it. It makes excellent bullets at .360, with great fill out. That shoot great.

Now when I am casting.
I have to keep a screw driver by my side, as every 5 casts the sprue plate screw loosens up then I have to tighen it. None of my other moulds do this but they are all steel.
Could this be my technique, is this something I just have to live with, or is it slightly stripped or wore out being an aluminum block. Yes the wave washer is in place.
This is driving me crazy, is there a fix or work around?
 
Last edited:

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
I accepted this sprue-plate-back-out feature as a product trait of the Lee 2-cavity moulds. My newer Lees aren't prone to this flaw since I started opening plates with a leather-gloved hand about 10 years ago. The newer Lee moulds seem to be built with a bit more quality and strength than earlier ideations, as well. Aluminum mould blocks like the Lee tools don't take kindly to stalwart casting processes, IME.

My remedy is the same that you use--I keep a screwdriver handy while casting. Even on the loosened-up sprue screws, gentle plate openings reduce the need for tightening.
 
Last edited:

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info.
Kinda looks like I need to get myself another tap and die set. Lost mine when I moved. about 15 years ago. Never needed one again till now.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Mitty,
I think Ben has a tutorial here on fixing the problem. I have a number of lee moulds I got from Ben in which he fixed the issue with set screw.
Never have a problem whit those Lee's
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Just looked up the cost of good drills and a Tap and die set. Kinda out of the question for me now. Just do not have the money for the tools to do this at the moment. I could buy 2 moulds for the cost of taps and a proper bit set.
Not going to spend that much cash on tools that will only get scattered and lost because I have no place for them. Maybe in the spring when If can get my mini barn finished.
Guess I will just live with it. Or maybe just try some high heat lock tight. Too good of a mould to toss.
 
Last edited:

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Mitty, you aren’t equipping a machine shop!
I have done many moulds with the Hansen hardware store drills and taps. No die needed, you but a simple set screw while at the hardware store.
I bet the required tools will be under 10 bucks.
The fact we are dealing with Lee aluminum moulds helps, they are pretty soft stuff.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Mitty, you aren’t equipping a machine shop!
I have done many moulds with the Hansen hardware store drills and taps. No die needed, you but a simple set screw while at the hardware store.
I bet the required tools will be under 10 bucks.
The fact we are dealing with Lee aluminum moulds helps, they are pretty soft stuff.
Thanks I guess I will give it a look see next time I am out. I am pro ably over thinking things.
Just that I used to have the place presses, lathe, and boxes of tools, to do everything proper.
Now that I do not, I get a little Leary doing things buy hand that I used to do with precision tools. Some things like hand drilling a straight hole just scare the crap out of me. I never even thought about buying a tap and bit separately. I may still have a tap-handle around. I guess I could mount my vice to the back of my loading bench and use a hand drill with a bubble level.
 
Last edited:

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Mitty,
If you are interested I probably have some extra taps and drill bits here if You want to give it a try!
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
10-32X1/8 Allen head set screw, or whatever length you want, and appropriate drill bit and tap.

Beware: The newer Lee moulds, with the channeled bottoms, have left-hand sprue cutter bolts and are marked LH next to the mould number.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
Consider using Rocksett on the setscrew when you install it. Rocksett is a high temp resistant thread cement. You would want to find the correct screw tension on your sprue plate before locking it down. Rocksett will only release with a hot water soak. Dry heat just makes it stronger. I don't recommend using it on the sprue plate screw itself, but that would be possible as well. You can buy a 2 oz bottle of Rocksett online for around $10.00, plus shipping. Read up on it before buying and decide if that's the route you want to take. Rocksetts day job is generally securing things like muzzle brakes and such.

Brownells link (they're too expensive, shop around!): https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...hread-locking-liquids/rocksett-prod54624.aspx
 

Ian

Notorious member
You can buy a 2-oz bottle of liquid stove gasket adhesive for a couple dollars at any decent hardware store, it is sodium or potassium silicate which is the same stuff as Rocksett. It takes a while to cure.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
Mitty this is one of those times .......

Following the book advice today it will $5-600 to get the first cast bullet in the first cartridge . Sure it's nice to have a digital O/U 5° pot , proper sizers for each throat , Rowel ladle , and NOE/MP/Accurate moulds that are a perfect fit . I've cast 10s of thousands and probably 10,000 with a soup spoon pinched in a piece of broom handle , dipped out of a $5 cast iron pan , over a door prize turkey burner , in $18 Lee moulds . 5000 452-252s and real money forked out was around $35 .

Pair the drill and tap and mark them for aluminum only .
Should be able to buy the pair for $9 or so then put them in the box with the assorted allen wrenches for scope rings , lock rings , and mould specific stuff . I bought 8 of the about 8×10×1 tackle boxes for shell holders , die parts , sight misc , sizers , small parts/tools the bench is still a wreck but the little easy to lose stuff is about 90% corralled in those boxes . Now if I could just get a set of those old Dorman nut, bolt , screw retail drawer counter chests for all the bullets I'd be set .

Under your set screw a snip of #12 copper single strand wire or pellet of #6-#2 lead shot will be better than steel on steel locking .
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
As mentioned Minty. Ya aint fillin a tool
Box. Ya just need one tap and bit. And Ya likely have the bit...

But something like this should be under 10$


CW
 

Joshua

Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
Pre drill a hole with a bit just slightly smaller than a self taping screw. Run the screw in a bit. Then shorten the self tapping screw a little at a time by grinding, until your situation is resolved.

Josh
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Pre drill a hole with a bit just slightly smaller than a self taping screw. Run the screw in a bit. Then shorten the self tapping screw a little at a time by grinding, until your situation is resolved.

Josh
I think we have a winner. I have an assortment of self taping Phillips head screws. I can do this .
And best of all......with what I have,free !