WALNUT SLAB

Gary

SE Kansas
Located a piece of Walnut I've had in the shop for over 10 years and worked it down to stock blank size. Finish size of this piece is 38x8.5x2.75 . Looks good enough for a stock I'd be proud of having; now to find a artisan to do the work. One side is clear while the other side has a bark inclusion that runs about ¼" deep. I'm getting more pics, my cell died while taking photos.Gblank5.jpgGblank4.jpg
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
You know, you look at a piece of wood like that and then you think back to Al Linden going at it with a HATCHET to rough shape it. Makes me get goose pimples and a queasy stomach just thinking about ruining something like that!
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
...but Al Linden and some other's really knew how to use a hatchet. There is no substitute for talent. Michaelangelo used a hammer an chisel to sculpt "David".
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Heck I've used a small 18th century hand forge broad axe to trim up full stock blanks for PA Longrifles! you just chop until the rough stock appears!
It is rather simple you just have to see it!
I like English walnut for European 17th & 18 century gun builds but I have also use a lot of black walnut because it is more prevalent but I guess I am allergic to the dust...because my wife will always ask why my eyes are all red!
 
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Ian

Notorious member
I've done several down to the last quarter inch with a chain saw. Not that difficult if you think every move through carefully and take your time.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Now A chain saw would make me cringe!

In my gunshop I have a few power tools that I seldom use..... Granted there is the bandsaw for cutting out the rough blanks and My trusty Drill press that I use for poking accurate holes but most of my stock work ( when cutting is needed is with roughing tools or handsaw because I really like to know when I'm in the midst of sawing a finger off! :embarrassed:
 

Ian

Notorious member
Handheld belt sander and pneumatic angle grinder with Roloc sanding disks as well as a 5" random D/A electric sander are pretty nice tools to have for stockmaking, too. I've watched hours of videos with stockmakers using hand planes, draw knives, spokeshaves, and coarse rasps to get a blank shaped on the outside and sorry, ain't got time for that. Jig up and run it across the table saw for precision flat, square surfaces, chainsaw and power sanders for the rest, scrape and hand sand the last bit.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I've never hacked or chainsawed out a stock, but I've done canoe paddles with both. However, a hunka birch outta the wood lot that was going to go for firewood is a lot different than a gorgeous piece of walnut. My skill level with a broad hatchet ( I own 2) is fair, but I lack the eye to do too much on a stock. I like hewing to a line. Freeform stuff like a stock is too artsy for me I suppose. I have done beams with the chainsaw followed by an adze (I own 3, maybe 4). I still kick myself for not buying the $25.00 broad axe with an edge in the 14-16" range at a flea market. It was so cheap I just knew it had to be junk. Pretty sure I was 100% wrong on that one.

Local guy back home, (WW2 Marine and NYS Forest Ranger) used to make money on the side making hard maple stocks, birdseye and curly maple. His advise after sawing out the blank was, "You start with a horseshoe rasp and when you're 1/2" from what you want it to look like you use a piece of broken glass." What he meant was that you couldn't expect to have maple act like walnut, especially birdseye where the "eye" would sometimes pop out of the stock using a plane, or so he told me. The little with maple I've done has made me appreciate what he was saying. Walnut and cherry are butter compared to hard maple. I took a nice chip out of an old Stanely low angle block plane blade on a particularly tough piece of curly maple once. Sharp as could be and set for a real shallow cut, but I did it. There are companies out there now selling scrapers and scraper holders that are supposed to be the cats for stuff like that.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
with stockmakers using hand planes, draw knives, spokeshaves, and coarse rasps to get a blank shaped on the outside and sorry, ain't got time for that.
Ian;
You just have to have the 17th & 18th century Gun builders blood in you....I guess: you can feel when you have it right! I can't imagine doing it any other way ( but you sure can't make a living at that way these days!)

Everything gun I have done for folks over the past 30 + years I'm sure was a labor of love! The only money I have ever made was from Museum Restorations...However if you figure in how many hours of research I have done on each piece I worked on I'm sure it was a big cut into my profits!
Jim
 
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Ian

Notorious member
The kind of craggy wild black cherry I favor for stocks has the grain going every which way and doesn't respond well to any kind of blade. I've worked a little maple and can concur, sand or scrape and don't be too aggressive with it.
 
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Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I had a decent Stanley scraper years back. Special ordered it through the place I worked at the time, some ridiculously expensive price on it in the $12.00 range. It was a rectangle of saw steel! It worked pretty good on maple but the burnisher I had was just an old Chebby push rod, what was recommended at that time. Not the greatest burnisher ever made. Lost that one scraping a fleshing beam and leaving it for a second. Years later I got a genuine Stanley scraper tool, not sure of the number. The handles make all the difference if you intend to use it for long. Nice tool.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Lots of stock makers out west....Some good ones in CA!
What do you want to put in it? i know a few in PA my home state
 

Gary

SE Kansas
Thanks JW, I'll keep looking. Already have lots of bowls. Of all things, I was wanting to put it on a beater Win Model 12 that I've had restored.
 
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Ian

Notorious member
If you can do the final sanding and finishing, you could always cut the profiles out with a bandsaw and send the blanks along with the originals to a stock duplicator. Not cheap, but quick and easy.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
I remember what my father did on the Garand. He glued together several pieces of softer scrap wood, cut and shaped them into the stock shape he wanted and took that and the blank to a guy ("stock duplicator") with a profiling lathe and had the blank cut to near finish shape and size. He of course did the inletting, finishing, checkering, etc.