WTB Lyman 439186 (CLOSED)

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glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
Got my Remington Rolling Block in 43 Spanish

Now I'm looking for a Lyman 439186

Unless I can swage down some .458 ??

Mike
 
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JonB

Halcyon member
I'm no help here, but just to say a current project of mine is ...casting some NOE 460393 (383gr RB) install GC and size to 457, then size to 454, then to 452, then Heat threat, then apply lube. For a friend's 460 S&W revolver.
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I have some undersized vintage Ideal GCs (measure 456 OD), and I am happy to find a use for them.
 

Missionary

Well-Known Member
Personally being a 40 year owner of multiple 43 Spanish rifles/carbines, I would get the 43 Mauser mold. Most drop 40-1 about .442-.444.
The .43 SP molds we own drop 40-1 about .438-.4395. This works out OK if your going to load BP or paper patch.
But if you think one day you want to pop off some smokeless loads that fatter cast will be very welcome.
This is my penny tour... not even worth 2 cents.
Have you slugged the chamber area ? You really need to.
 
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JustJim

Well-Known Member
I'll second what Missionary said, but would suggest your priorities are out-of-sequence. Get the trigger re-worked before seeking a mould. It is hard to see how well a lightweight rifle with a 12# trigger shoots!
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I had a 1-12 110 SA 308 as long as I didn't shoot anything of any shape over 175 gr it was great.
The 30-30 Savage follows suit with its 1-12" also .
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
You know, those triggers are re-workable. One of the things I always liked about rolling blocks was the trigger, once it was tuned. Maybe start a thread and we can all contribute ideas?
Shimmed the Pedersoli's to two-pounds, but have yet to shoot it. I'm hoping the reality will be that it's not too light, but it's easy to get it to three-pounds.
 

beagle

Active Member
Well, if you hoodlums get this project off the ground, drop me a PM. Think we made a sizer in that range that I’ll donate to the cause as I haven’t used it in years. All I know is it’s .44X”./beagle
 

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
regarding sizers... When my 1st 43 Spanish wouldn't shoot the norm .439s, I went all out. It was a real bastard child/WAY over-sized/over-reamed on the inside, and way over polished on the outside (all of which I NOW know!!!). Also why I have/had 2x .439 molds, 2x .446 molds, and 439/442/446 sizers!!!!

Now, replacement excellant shape 43 Spanish (ironically, came with a bent bbl/buddy fixed it) is exceptionally tight chambered. Std .439 bullets seem to work great. Also why felt comfortable selling 1 ea of the 439/446 molds recently.
 

glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
To beagle and everyone else who has provided so much great insight, I have a mold on the way and we ARE gonna do this! I'm so very excited about this new project. I have always wanted to step out of my comfort zone and do something in an odd caliber. I even swage/modify 220 swift brass down to 7.62x45 for my VZ52 rifle. This is the stuff that makes this hobby more fun for me :)

Anywho, thanks again to everyone for your valuable input.

Mike

Here is my REM Roller between some other items my son and I picked up at the show.

IMG_4119.png

For those who may ask, yes - another Enfield, the Savage lend lease. That just about rounds out our Enfield collection. The Romanian AK was my sons purchase.
 

4060MAY

Active Member
I have over the years had 5 RB,
Couple of thing to know Before you touch the trigger, and hammer...Do Not mess with the angles between the hammer and trigger, do not grind on the mainspring, the block lever is also the trigger safety, if it does not touch when the hammer is cocked, if you pull the trigger with the hammer cocked, the hammer will be in the fire position, when the block is closed, the rifle will fire, (I know this from experience)
for the trigger spring the Rolling Block guy makes a spring for this, from wire

for a target trigger, A SSet trigger works, but is a PIA to install,if so incline I have the drawings and instructions to do so, with cast parts
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
I have over the years had 5 RB,
Couple of thing to know Before you touch the trigger, and hammer...Do Not mess with the angles between the hammer and trigger, do not grind on the mainspring, the block lever is also the trigger safety, if it does not touch when the hammer is cocked, if you pull the trigger with the hammer cocked, the hammer will be in the fire position, when the block is closed, the rifle will fire, (I know this from experience)
for the trigger spring the Rolling Block guy makes a spring for this, from wire

for a target trigger, A SSet trigger works, but is a PIA to install,if so incline I have the drawings and instructions to do so, with cast parts
But, shouldn't the hammer fall to the half-cocked position, instead of falling all the way forward and sticking the firing pin?
 

glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
Bruce, having just recently moved to the Oklahoma City area, I was just in time to go the the big Wanenmacher in Tulsa. So nice to live in a free state now.

A rolling or falling block of some sort was on my bucket list. This one even had the Bayonet. I probably over paid @ $800 but it was a nice rifle and in the caliber I wanted to mess with.

Keep looking! They are out there. I saw some cheaper than mine at the show. That's the problem with the show, you buy and then two isles over you find a better deal! HAHA.

Mike
 

LEC Guy

Active Member
Mike, I've heard about that show. For a collector it is an incredible event. I'm 9 hours south. I'm an FFL and thought about going there and get some tables. I still have some inventory from back when I did shows. Mostly just some Russian 91/30's and Commercal Rifles and Shotguns. It's just a long way to go and and firearm sales would have to get transferred to another dealer who is "in state". I can only sell firearms in Texas. I've got 2 Swiss Vetterli's converted to centerfire that are on my plate now. I've got a few molds for them, dies and brass too.

Bruce
 

4060MAY

Active Member
462
you are right, but the gun didn't know, after I thought about it the hammer has a fly in it,

when it happened, the rifle was loaded, (wet pants), now when I'm shooting either of the ones I have left, I hold the hammer when I close the block
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
462
you are right, but the gun didn't know, after I thought about it the hammer has a fly in it,

when it happened, the rifle was loaded, (wet pants), now when I'm shooting either of the ones I have left, I hold the hammer when I close the block
I believe that is called the "New York Model" used by their National Guard and Militia. When the block goes forward, the hammer is to go to the half cock notch, only model with one. Idea was that when you loaded the rifle, it was NOT ready to fire, but you had to pull the hammer back to full cock. Pulling the trigger, lets the hammer slip past the fly. FWIW
 
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