7.62x40 WT

Hawk

Well-Known Member
Well, I got to cast some last night.
After scrubbing down the mold a couple of times with dawn, I let it warm up on the pot while the lead melted.
Due to my own poor abilities, I had five out of six rejects. Even the frosted bullets had little wrinkle in them.
Cast for over two hours and got 60-70 bullets that I might try to shoot.
Finally turned the heat up on my Lee pot to 9 and started to get a few acceptable bullets.
Nothing like Ben's posts. His bullets look perfect, but acceptable in that the sizer will iron out the wrinkles.
I'll try again tomorrow. But for now, a few pixs.

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fiver

Well-Known Member
i'll wait a day or so before sweating him about that.:cool:
I'd like to hear about a dummy round or two and how they feed and stuff first.
you just gotta push one or two through a size die and work on some brass for a minute or two to get that done.
it is the important information anyway.
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
Loaded rounds and feeding info will be done tomorrow.
Today was a busy day. Tomorrow I can play a little.

Will try to shoot Friday.

I'm going to start out at .309 using LBT Blue lube (it's what's in the lube sizer)
I don't have Quick Loads. What do you think a good starting load using AA1680 would be? Something to start low and work up.
The bullet will not be seated as deep into the case as the Lee. Maybe starting with a 300 BLK load?
 

Josh

Well-Known Member
Find a mid to upper range 300 blk load for the same weight bullet, load em up and have fun.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I'm singing the "new mould" break-in blues with an NOE mould myself. I really, really like that Accurate design though. I'm accumulating 300 BO parts, but really want just a little more punch. I've been seriously looking at the 30 HRT, but the brass aspect is keeping me away from it. I've been watching this thread from the beginning, trying to sort out what I really, really want. The advantage, and disadvantage of the 300BO is that it's really inexpensive. The Wilson can be too. I need to make up my mind. Somehow.
 

Josh

Well-Known Member
I had to look up the 30 HRT, in my opinion it would be a perfect rebarrel for my 7.62x39 CZ 527, I am not exactly sure how it would work in the AR platform.

The further we travel from the 5.56 in this platform the more we have to do to insure proper function. My only concern is a 30 HRT may (an outside chance I know) need load X to function but only shoots well with load Y.

For me the 7.62x40 is as far down the rat hole I want to go, it just builds on the 300 BLK's unlimited data, any bullet you shoot in the BLK you can extrapolate data for the same bullet in the 7.62x40, let us know what you choose, I would be happy to help you design a bullet for it as well.
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
The 7.62x40 has been pretty painless to adopt. Just swap out the barrel.
You have to make your own brass from 5.56 or .223, but that has been pretty easy. See my post # 29 about trimming brass. It was easy with a power tool.
I used a couple of loads that I got from "https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/382761_7_62x40mm_Information_Thread.html&page=28". See the post from BWilson at "Posted: 2/13/2011 9:31:11 AM CDT".
After settling down, it was easy to get 3/4" 100 yard groups from un-fire-formed brass with 125 gr. Sierra Pro-Hunters.
I'm anxious to find out if the Accurate Mold will feed in the M4 ramps.
It's a pretty bullet and I bet it will shoot!
 

Ian

Notorious member
Hawk and 358156HP, take Swede's advise and give your mould cavities just a little caramel-colored haze of Bic lighter soot in the cavities. Don't blacken them, just a haze. Be sure to run your moulds HOT, cast fast to keep them up to temp. Might need to re-apply the soot one or two times in the first or second casting session, then the mould will pretty much be good to go after that.
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
Lubed and checked they average 164.5 grains. A little heavier than I expected.

Drop from the mold at .3125 from COWW with some SOWW in the mix. I didn't separate them when I mixed this batch.

Okay. I loaded six rounds to 2.130" and loaded them into my modified 10 round Pmag.
Cycled them from the mag thru the action 5 times. Not a single failure to feed!
I did experience hard extraction on every round. I'll have to find my Max OAL as 2.013" seems to be too long. Not a problem.
Did get some checked and lubed
The cartridge was chambered five times, hence the scratches on the case and boolit.
Didn't notice any deformation on the nose of the water dropped boolits.
I'm really excited to see how these shoot since they passed the chambering tests.
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fiver

Well-Known Member
312?
nooo.
311 at most,, 312 is too much.
you just want them to barely grab the 310 size die enough to seat and crimp the gas checks.

I'm not seeing any rifling marks though so that's good.
check your neck thickness with the boolits seated I was having some issues with my 300 BO and it turned out to be that.

hopefully some range time is coming I think you'll do well.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
Hawk and 358156HP, take Swede's advise and give your mould cavities just a little caramel-colored haze of Bic lighter soot in the cavities. Don't blacken them, just a haze. Be sure to run your moulds HOT, cast fast to keep them up to temp. Might need to re-apply the soot one or two times in the first or second casting session, then the mould will pretty much be good to go after that.

Bbbutt, on the "other" site (TOS), we were told that only Luddites smoke moulds. I've been going through a renaissance period in casting lately. After all the guidance from masters like Mr G, I actually lost ground in some areas. So I quit there, and am returning to my old ways. I'd a bit bothered that I hadn't even considered smoking the darn thing. It has almost always worked in the past for cranky moulds.

Thanks Ian.