Have check the diameter of 44 caliber bullets I cast over twenty years ago. They increased an average .005 inches. Pretty negligible.
Sorry, I don't cast for those pistol calibers.... yet. Someday, when I can get primers and one of those new SA35s. I do use my straight range scrap for low velocity 30 cal loads. Low as in 1300fps or below. No gas checks. They work just fine. I guess I should mention my accuracy definition because each has their own standards.Dimmer, have you had any problems with accuracy using the same alloy for 38spcl, 45, 9mm, 40, and .357? Can you load a hotter load with such an alloy from actual experience or do you rely on a gas check or harder blend ( maybe CWW )?
I don't suppose it really matters much until you have one of those loads that has to be "just so", and then it does. Half a thou ain't much, but others have reported more. Never seen it myself, just something to keep in the back of your mind. Just like age hardening and softening, for most people it probably doesn't matter. For the people obsessing over Bhn it probably has them pulling their hair out.Have check the diameter of 44 caliber bullets I cast over twenty years ago. They increased an average .0005 inches. Pretty negligible.
Just to add to the discussion, you change more than just the "hardness" when you WQ, and not all "lead" tempers.Sorry, I don't cast for those pistol calibers.... yet. Someday, when I can get primers and one of those new SA35s. I do use my straight range scrap for low velocity 30 cal loads. Low as in 1300fps or below. No gas checks. They work just fine. I guess I should mention my accuracy definition because each has their own standards.
For my low velocity loads under 1300fps, all I care about is 1 inch groups at 50 yards. The actual result is somewhere around 0.5 to 0.75" center to center when developing a load. At this velocity I don't think the alloy makes a difference within reason.
If you are looking for a harder blend, don't forget that you can waterdrop your bullets for a boost in hardness.
Ramble On my friend Led Zeppelin said so!I have had .001 growth in 2 batches made. Over a year.
The common denominator was pluming pipe and pewter with a 1 in 20 pewter(tin) content, to aid with my terrible casting skills at the time.
Did not matter in the 357 when I was sizing to .358. But made a big difference in the .380.
I casted and retested the stuff that was left to figure it out. Half of the growth (.0005) was in the first month. Never checked it beyond a month.
Now I just use it sweeten the range scrap, when I make up my 9 mm rounds. I shoot up a lot of 9.
As my firing pin is rather agressive in my build. I can use rifle primers when pistol primers are not easily are cheaply had. I have a crap load of pre current situation SRP, thanks to Ricks advice and a work bonus I got, a couple years ago.
I really need to get the revolver back out, now that I have some SPP again. I think it has been at least 6 months since I shot the 66.
Pardon the ramble
Probably a lot less than most people think. An awful, awful lot of swaged bullets went down range and they weren't much more than plain lead.Lots of variables in these ballistics equations, for certain.
Close 90% of my casting gets done with 92/6/2 alloy, AKA 1/2 lead and 1/2 Linotype. Once in a great while I use straight Lino, which casts wonderfully but is harder than woodpecker lips. A bit of 30/1 Lead/Tin gets the call in 38/55 and 45/70. That is also very nice to cast with.
Pure lead is the really interesting stuff lately--I've been running that in a number of revolver calibers, and it poses no issues to 900 FPS if sized to fit throats properly. Mind you, this is being run in twist rates of 1-16" to 1-20", no usage in the 1-10"/4 turns per meter pitches yet. I suspect some skidding would occur there, but that's only speculation at this point.
It does beg the question.......how much 'hardness' is required to function in some applications? I am talking to the "Low Node" folks here, especially.
Boy oh boy, I never paid much attention to Brinnell and I have a bunch of linotype I was thinking I'd never use. Now you tell me I can mix it 50/50 with soft lead and make 92/6/2? Well Halleluja, now I can start working on reducing the lino inventory. Thanks.Lots of variables in these ballistics equations, for certain.
Close 90% of my casting gets done with 92/6/2 alloy, AKA 1/2 lead and 1/2 Linotype. Once in a great while I use straight Lino, which casts wonderfully but is harder than woodpecker lips. A bit of 30/1 Lead/Tin gets the call in 38/55 and 45/70. That is also very nice to cast with.
Pure lead is the really interesting stuff lately--I've been running that in a number of revolver calibers, and it poses no issues to 900 FPS if sized to fit throats properly. Mind you, this is being run in twist rates of 1-16" to 1-20", no usage in the 1-10"/4 turns per meter pitches yet. I suspect some skidding would occur there, but that's only speculation at this point.
It does beg the question.......how much 'hardness' is required to function in some applications? I am talking to the "Low Node" folks here, especially.
Purchase as in buy, like with cash money, from a vendor or business? Why sir, I do declare, you done gave me the vapors.Pure is the cheapest form of lead to purchase.