Bench Rest Techniques and Tips For Rifles

[yodogsandman]

I'm not a competitor, I bench shoot to test accuracy. I was recently made aware that other 35 Whelen shooters were holding the fore end when bench shooting. I had always shot with the left hand squeezing the rear bag for correct height and the right hand would operate the trigger. I would take a few breathes and let the last one out slowly, stopping just to fire. What else am I missing?

Also, I've always had trouble with my Lyman front rest using Protector leather front and rear bags. It would need tightening each shot (seldom did it) and was wobbly. I powder the leather bags with mica dust before each session because I heard it helps to be more consistent, friction wise. The leather bags fit some rifles better than others. Just got an adjustable Caldwell "the Rock" front rest to improve stability there. Any other equipment changes I really need?

 

[S Mac]

I'm also interested in hearing other's techniques, striving for better accuracy here at home on the range.

 

[RicinYakima]

On the way to visit granddaughter, but will answer later. I have opinions! and what works for me. Ric

 

[35 shooter]

Yodog i too use only one hand with my whelen and one hand on the rear rest except for a couple of loads that want to put the scope in my forehead.
With those loads i very very lightly hold the forearm.

I believe the caldwell rest you ordered is the same one i use and is a very good one. I prefer not to pack the front rest completely full of sand, but rather have it a bit "giving" as compared to rock hard packed.

My caldwell also has adjustable "wings" on the side to help adjust the front bag to form to the rifle stock and to keep any right and left movement out of the bag.
I prefer slick leather for the bags versus swede or any type of rough leather that could impede free recoil.
Powdering the rests the way you mentioned help in this regard also, but i rarely do that anymore.

I'm no competetor either , but i just try to use good basic bench technique. I'm interested in the answers you get here too.
Unless totally neccesary i don't touch the forearm at all.

 

[quicksylver]

I too use the Caldwell "rock". It is pretty darn good.
as a matter of fact it worked so well I wore it out.I have replaced the pad with a leather one from "protector",
there are two main differences the Caldwell is a combo of leather and cloth ( easily damaged), the "protector"
is all heavy leather.
The Caldwell is filled with shot ( or maybe I filled it), the "protector " is filled with sand, THAT WENT IMEDIATELY, it is now filled with shot.
The Cadwell ears are adjustable but only enough to keep the pad in place.
I place a piece of Lambs wool over the front rest, love it.
Basically I set the front and rear bags up so they fit me instead of me fitting the bags.
Get comfortable with your seating position then move the front rest so that the rifle is sighted in.
That way there is no strain on YOU when you are trying to keep a good sight picture.
I have seen so many shooters trying to fit themselves to a set of rests.
One hand and use the front stop to register the gun the same way from shot to shot.
BTW the height of the rear pad is important too.
When it works it works !

 

[yodogsandman]

My Caldwell bags came all filled.....with what, I don't know. I used lighter weight, plastic blast media grit in my Protector leather bags. I didn't know they could also fit the Caldwell rest....did just get it.

I shot this afternoon but, it was so windy (20-25+ MPH gusts) that I couldn't tell if the new rest made a difference.

 

[RicinYakima]

OK, I'm back.

There are three ways to shoot off bags: free recoil, touching and holding. Free recoil is just that; the rifle sets on the bags, you line everything up then raise your head and watch the wind flags. When they look correct you touch the trigger and the rifle fires. This requires a flat or concave forearm, consistent resistance bags and light trigger. Touching is what most people use: the rounded forearm rests on a smooth leather/material rest that provides vertical support. The rear bag is "V" shape and help prevent canting (the evil of this system). Most people rest the non-firing hand on the rear bag for final adjustments, the cheek lightly rest on the comb and the firing hand thumb and fingers lightly touch the wrist. The trigger is pulled to the rear while looking through the scope or sights. Since the butt stock is lightly touching the shoulder, the rifle can recoil a short distance as it compresses your flesh. IF the bullet is still in the barrel, the rifle can cant or add bad juju as it wiggles around on your shoulder. Two sub types of holding: having your hands just like you would in offhand, but the weight of the rifle is carried by the front and rear bag. This is what I use to shoot hard kickers like the 450 Watts, etc. It requires adding about 3 inches to the height of front and rear bags. The other is like the touching, but the firing hand smoothly pulls the butt firmly back into the shoulder muscles until it stops, hopefully in the same place every time. On some stock designs you may have to use the non-firing hand to gently pull down just in front of the front bag to keep from getting a Weatherby Eyebrow.

Quick thoughts on rests, every nuts screw and bolt must be locked down TIGHT. If you can feel any wiggle, groups get bigger. Make sure you spikes are down, if it moves so will your group centers. If you have to shoot from a wooden bench, drive the spikes down with a mallet.

Ric

 

[JWFilips]

Guys... I'm here eating this up! What about Forearm placement on the rest? I have heard different opinions! Most of my rifles shoot better rested farther back ( like the factory sights!)

 

[fiver]

for a lever gun you move the bag back as far as you can right up to the receiver.
for regular rifles I just go behind the sling stud.

there is one more technique for bench shooting and is one I prefer for rifles with handles [AR-15 type handles]
but I also use it on many of my hunting rifles.
I put both hands on the grip and use them like I would on a pistol.
the left hand pulls the rifle into my shoulder [it also is used to turn the cross hairs into position] around my right hand and my right hand is almost loose so I can work the trigger freely.

the key is to do everything the same every time [even if it's wrong]

 

[Brad]

What works for one gun won't always work for another.
My AR doesn't shoot worth a damn free recoil. If I pull hard on the pistol grip into my shoulder it does mch better. A 375 H&H needs to be held on the forearm unless loads are very light.
Consistency is key. Finding consistency takes effort and thought.

 

[quicksylver]

This is fun....
I am suprissed that no one has mentioned pinching the trigger
Thumb and trigger finger.
Finger on trigger ,thumb on trigger guard.
Squeeze.
Free recoil can hurt if you got the wrong type of gun for using that tenique.

 

[quicksylver]

Like I said this is fun.
I agree that your off hand should be used to adjust the rear bag, but that is all it should do.
If you are using it to maintain a good sight picture you won't get the results you are looking for. MO.

 

[RicinYakima]

My only experience is with bolt guns and one BSA Martini International Mk-III (14 pound 22 LR single shot). JW, don't think mechanical engineers from the 1890 and early 1900 were not smart. The Krag and Springfield had many different barrel contours tried and were a balance of offhand and prone. The off hand should be placed (or in our case the front rest) where you would normally hold it for 'stand on your feet and shoot'. While Winchester and Remington and especially Savage chose small diameter barrels, the contour shape was all Springfield, unlike the stepped Mauser system. So holding them under the open rear sight is an excellent starting place.

The fore end stop on good bench rests are not there for looks! It is a tuning aid to insure that you can repeat the placement of even varmint rifles exactly in the same position. Generally speaking, the heavier the barrel the more range you have. The thinner the barrel the more exact you have to be on placement.

 

[Ian]

Leverguns and ARs are their own animal. I always hold a levergun tight to my shoulder and with hands in the "normal" offhand positions, front and rear bags are just there to steady the gun, not hold it. Support hand is on top of the front rest. Try shooting a Marlin sometime with the forearm and tube off of it, and not holding the barrel with the support hand.....better have a tall berm. I have tried and adopted Fiver's AR technique, the 15 especially tends to be very light and squirmy in bags and it really needs to be pulled firmly straight back into the shoulder, but not with the firing hand because snugging the rifle and controlling the trigger well with the same hand is very difficult and tiring.

Free recoil is for rifles and support systems designed for free recoil. Small calibers and extremely heavy rifles with flat-bottomed, parallel support surfaces are the norm here. A deer rifle will will twist on its round forearm and jump out of the front rest unless you hold it firmly in your shoulder with at least the firing hand.

For traditional-stocked rifles, try not wrapping the thumb of your firing hand around the top of the pistol grip. Instead, point it straight downrange along the side of the stock. This will reduce the transfer of trigger finger movement to the stock. If you shoot with tang sights you probably already do this and have a scar on your thumb to show for that knowledge.

Whatever you do for a rifle, make sure that your hold allows for at least 1/4" of absolutely straight-to-the-rear movement so the bullet can get free before the rifle movement affects it. This is where your sheepskin, Teflon pads, motor mica, graphite and talcum powder, etc. come into play.

I like bipods for everyday shooting. They have some issues such as tracing an arc if properly planted and pre-loaded against the springs, or skidding on the bench if you don't. I think where a lot of people get into trouble shooting sporting rifles from a bench is variances introduced from the buttstock dragging the usual bunny or rabbit ear bag (I'm a fan of the smaller bunny-ear bags or a plain squeeze bag) and from either not holding the forearm when they should, or introducing inconsistencies when they do.

The whole key is do what you do the same way every time, and minimize reliance on muscle support, which means when you use your body to tension the rifle, make sure you can do it without having to use so much force that you induce tremors. Realizing that follow-through is at the very least AS important as trigger and breath control will go a long way toward working the bugs out of your hold technique.

 

[JWFilips]

A lot of great info in this thread! Yodogsandman, Thanks for starting it up!
Jim

 

[KHornet]

Words of wisdom Ian, and well written. Think I have used just about every kind of rest over many years, and found merit to all of them to one degree or another. I have not heard of not wrapping the thumb, and have never done so. However, next time at the range!!!!!!
Regardless, as you say, consistency is the key, and doing the same thing over and over. Particularly important when shooting PDogs at distances over 200 yds.

 

[Creeker]

This is fun....
I am suprissed that no one has mentioned pinching the trigger
Thumb and trigger finger.
Finger on trigger ,thumb on trigger guard.
Squeeze.
Free recoil can hurt if you got the wrong type of gun for using that tenique.

One of the local champs does this.

 

[quicksylver]

Interesting Creeker, not as easy as it sounds.

 

[Creeker]

He does strange things like ice the barrel.

 

[KHornet]

And then: There is the differences in the height and weight, age and vision of the shooter! In general I agree with Brad and Ian, but don't get overly excited about the whole issue. No to rifles are the same and no to people who shoot them are the same. Millions of variables, far to many to consider trying to list them all.