If it had moly in it, it would be black or dark grey and for sure moly compounds would be listed on the MSDS. Also, it would not be suitable for electrical switches if it contained moly in any form I know of.
Basically it's light oil, hydrocracked to remove the waxes, probably a "group III" base stock which is used, somewhat deviously, in most "synthetic" crankcase oils. Should be just fine for all HBNR seals. If it works, it works.
If you want something especially outstanding for cold-weather lubrication and solvency, it's tough to beat an ester oil...the only problem is it can be hostile to many kinds of o-rings and lip seals, so you need to know what they're made of. Any kind of straight paraffin oil with no polybutene and no additives such as pour point depressants or coiled-molecule viscosity modifiers tends to work well for cylinder lube since it doesn't gum up, doesn't evaporate, is non-polar, and doesn't break down into sludge (think automatic transmission fluid, or plain old mineral oil from the pharmacy, thick for laxative use, thin for babies, blend if required).