experimenting on powder water stains

todd

Well-Known Member
i have a sporterized 1916 Spanish Mauser (1925 i think) in 7x57. someday, i want a 257 Bob and this is the rifle action i'll use. in the meantime, i have CirtriStriped the stock (sort of) and i want to experiment on powder water stains. i don't know what the wood is, i'm guessing a piece of European walnut or birch. all i know is that i have a piece of nearly 100yo wood. i don't think it will stain, but i'll use water, 99% isopropyl alcohol and Minwax Antique Oil.

i bought Keda Dye Stain Powder and i'm going to red powder first and we will see how that goes.

xFs5uLV.jpg
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Are you sure it's water stains?
I had a unmolested 1916 Spanish Mauser with some nice blond wood, but it had oil stains, I suspect cosmoline.
 

Wiresguy

Active Member
And here I was trying to figure out the connection between smokeless powder and water stains!
Maybe I need more coffee? Have fun with your stock project!
 

Missionary

Well-Known Member
I for sure would start on another piece of wood as a test bed. Or at least a place on that stock (barrel channel) that can be easily rectified if need be.
 

obssd1958

Well-Known Member
Are you sure it's water stains?
I had a unmolested 1916 Spanish Mauser with some nice blond wood, but it had oil stains, I suspect cosmoline.
Jon,
That's the first thing I thought! But I think he is referring to water based stains, as opposed to another way to color the wood of the stock.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
The Keda dies are good stuff.

EXPERIMENT! Get some black walnut and see what happens. You can mix colors too. I found that the black - PURE black, at full strength will make white oak look like aged, ammonia-fumed oak, which is NOT black. Yellow will turn wood CANARY-yellow, but sanded lightly and stained over with a darker oil stain makes the grain "POP," as they say. It's cheap enough that you can play a bit with it and see what you come up with.

My favorite has become the black on black walnut, for a much richer-looking walnut, without the dulling that oil stains can do to walnut. The yellow really makes the denser/softer wood contrast well and stand out, like flame-grained birch or curly maple, quarter-sawn white-oak.

Using a darker oil stain over the analine dyed surface will probably surprise you. I did a blanket chest in quarter-sawn oak with bald cypress panels with yellow on the oak and orange on the panels. Neither are the rails and tiles yellow, nor the panels orange. These colors lend a rich, warm hue, which shines through the oil stain.

IF you use WATER, use DISTILLED water. Alcohol is fine too, but I used water.

EDIT: FULL DISCLOSURE - I'm no finishing expert. My mode of operation is to try something and see if I like it. If I don't, I try something else, and something else until what I've made is complemented by the finish. Sometimes it looks exactly like I'd imagined, and sometimes it actually looks really good. I never know what a project is going to look like until it finds its way and show ME what it should be.
 
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Jeff H

NW Ohio
Are you sure it's water stains?
I had a unmolested 1916 Spanish Mauser with some nice blond wood, but it had oil stains, I suspect cosmoline.

Water, or alcohol-based analine DYEs. The subject had me going too, until I read the post and saw the Keda dye package.
 

Ian

Notorious member
You will need to get the citri-strip off first. They make a remover. Just about nothing will remove it otherwise, but brake cleaner works so-so. Then you will need to get the oil out of the stock wood by soaking it in acetone. THEN it might take the dyes evenly.

The pros would skip the chemical removers and scrape it back very gently with sharp cabinet scrapers and finish it with boiled linseed oil or at most Watco Danish oil. Minwax Antique Oil is not the correct thing to use, it is very heavily laden with varnish resins and will build.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Old guns are going to be difficult taking water stains because there has been to much oils in the wood. On a Clean from scratch build that would be no issue! They actually a nice!
I redid my Dad's old 311 Savage double barrel shotgun..it was pretty light. I degreased it about 3 times and dried it , Found out it was walnut so I "fumed" it for a Week in a sealed 10 gallon aquarium With 3 dishes of Strong ammonia ! Came out a really nice Chestnut Brown! Then I wiped it with English Red Pinkington spirit dye! Since I'm a 17th & 18Th C firelock builder I like a red tinted finish! Coated it with 6 thin coats of Hand rubbed Trueoil. The photo was meant to show the engraving but if you look at the wood you cab see the rich color.
EarlyDays1.jpg
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Nice touch with the engraving.
I'm embrasured to say It was the first metal engraving I did! Got that Idea from an old Brownell's Catalog. It was for a double Barrel Shotgun and it fit ...At least.... gave me the idea! It was "relief Engraving" and it dulled my engravers ever 20 minutes! More time sharpening and honing than engraving!
But this is a staining thread! So We Will get back to that!
 

todd

Well-Known Member
i don't want to do the whole stock. there is a bunch of dings and dents and other stuff to make right. water staining is new to me, so i will experiment with distilled water, tap water, Antique Oil, poly oil, mineral spirits and 99% alcohol. i don't know if the stock can be repaired or i'll just buy a new one.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
heck man just go camo and try some here and some there.


that wood JW shows sure has the long time red winchester look to it.
 
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todd

Well-Known Member
left to right
tap water, 99% isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits and Antique Oil
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left to right
water, 99% isopropyl
bUS32Gx.jpg


the mineral spirits and Antique Oil didn't really like powder, it was clumpy.

the tap water and the 99% mixed well with the powder.


now to take it off

150gr sandpaper is NOT it
T2RgKfa.jpg


i used CitiStrip for a half hour
uM1QMkI.jpg


it sort came off
pauIj0j.jpg



right now, i've put some CitriSrip on the stock and i cover it with plastic. it will be around 24 hours later till i will take off the CitStrip and then we will see.
 
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JonB

Halcyon member
If you can get most of that red out, I wonder if you could go at it with the dark brown powder with tap water to see if you can hide the tint variations. Unless you are planning on going with something in the radical sense?
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
The only 2 stains I like in you package are the 2 middle packages If the one on the right is a brownish one A vey light application of that one over those red patches on the stock should tone the red down ( there is some green in brown)
My choice would be a mix of those two colors ( Middle packages) If you want it redder a tiny pinch of the red could be added to the mix
 

todd

Well-Known Member
left to right
orange, black, red, brown, yellow, blue

NFu500B.jpg



i really don't know if i am going to keep or not. probably will, but you never know about me. :D

heck, for all i know is put pieces of tape on the stock and go blue to orange to yellow to blue to.....maybe diagonal? that would be different:eek:. or yellow-orange or....