I started with PC gun that negative charges powder, works fine. Took a while to get shake&bake to coat. Cheesy little cheese container is 'poor'.
1) Use thick wall #5 bowl! S&B, the powder pulls positive charge from the bowl when swirled (friction). #5 plastic is a better electrical insulator to prevent the charge from leaking out to your body. Humidity absorbs the charge. Plastic beads/BBs help, not required. They do help as a cushion also.
2) shaking gets the charged powder airborn to settle on the bullets. Chef shake or just up & down.
3) I've S&B bullets with OneShot on them, still works but spotchy results - I don't 'clean' any before S&B.
4) Knockoff EXCESS powder for better coating. Whatever method you choose. I use hemos for pickup and drop on hard surface, then onto the plate for cooking. I ruin more nitril gloves putting them on.
5) PC has a flow temp (~200F) longer you hold temp there, smoother coating. 5 min should work - allows that thick liquid to flow. Then raise temp to cure temp. Anything above the cure temp but below slump temp works fine! I WD/HT so cook an hour (or longer if lazy) -NO problem - HF or Smokes powder. Temp/time wise, you bullets will slump/melt before the coating is damaged. HF red is fine, other colors are bad - and it mixes with other powders fine.
Machine/auto PC companies may sell used powder cheap, beware it may be floor sweepings and be contaminated. There are architectural grade PC that you do NOT want to use, it's just a shiny surface coating and has low abrasion resistance.
I use Yoshi copper flat mats (there are other brands?)over a steel plate now & stand up bullets. I cook on my mould hot plate with 2 floor tiles to even out heat. Set to max, watch for nice flow and then cover with a plastic baking pan she gave me, let set for an hour. Remove and dump in iced water for HT if desired. I also GC before PC (rifle) with larger sizer so the GC stays on.
I've played with undersizing, then PC and size proper but no real conclusion yet. All my rifle moulds are slick sided with an tiny groove for displaced alloy. I undersized the nose by 5 thous. to account for PC, GC shank is undersized also - Hornady's fit fine.
That's my process that works.
1) Use thick wall #5 bowl! S&B, the powder pulls positive charge from the bowl when swirled (friction). #5 plastic is a better electrical insulator to prevent the charge from leaking out to your body. Humidity absorbs the charge. Plastic beads/BBs help, not required. They do help as a cushion also.
2) shaking gets the charged powder airborn to settle on the bullets. Chef shake or just up & down.
3) I've S&B bullets with OneShot on them, still works but spotchy results - I don't 'clean' any before S&B.
4) Knockoff EXCESS powder for better coating. Whatever method you choose. I use hemos for pickup and drop on hard surface, then onto the plate for cooking. I ruin more nitril gloves putting them on.
5) PC has a flow temp (~200F) longer you hold temp there, smoother coating. 5 min should work - allows that thick liquid to flow. Then raise temp to cure temp. Anything above the cure temp but below slump temp works fine! I WD/HT so cook an hour (or longer if lazy) -NO problem - HF or Smokes powder. Temp/time wise, you bullets will slump/melt before the coating is damaged. HF red is fine, other colors are bad - and it mixes with other powders fine.
Machine/auto PC companies may sell used powder cheap, beware it may be floor sweepings and be contaminated. There are architectural grade PC that you do NOT want to use, it's just a shiny surface coating and has low abrasion resistance.
I use Yoshi copper flat mats (there are other brands?)over a steel plate now & stand up bullets. I cook on my mould hot plate with 2 floor tiles to even out heat. Set to max, watch for nice flow and then cover with a plastic baking pan she gave me, let set for an hour. Remove and dump in iced water for HT if desired. I also GC before PC (rifle) with larger sizer so the GC stays on.
I've played with undersizing, then PC and size proper but no real conclusion yet. All my rifle moulds are slick sided with an tiny groove for displaced alloy. I undersized the nose by 5 thous. to account for PC, GC shank is undersized also - Hornady's fit fine.
That's my process that works.
