Longone
Active Member
Does anyone have experience (good or bad) with this design? Looking to have some fun with my 586 6".
https://leeprecision.com/6-cavity-358-148-wc.html
https://leeprecision.com/6-cavity-358-148-wc.html
Lee 38 wad cutter 6 cavity
- Thread starter Longone
- Start date
bullseye67
New Member
Good morning,
I use the tumble lube design. Makes piles of boolits really quick! The button nose works lubed or T/L. It doesn't work in a Model 52 Smith. If only buying one I would lean towards the T/L design. Works in my Rossi lever when loaded in 357 brass. They are seated flush with the case mouth and I put just a hint of crimp on them.
Have fun.....
I use the tumble lube design. Makes piles of boolits really quick! The button nose works lubed or T/L. It doesn't work in a Model 52 Smith. If only buying one I would lean towards the T/L design. Works in my Rossi lever when loaded in 357 brass. They are seated flush with the case mouth and I put just a hint of crimp on them.
Have fun.....
Longone
Active Member
Thanks for the info guys, I hadn't given any thought to T/L but that seems like a great idea. Make a bunch up and give them a coat of lube, Midsouth has them in stock so I'll have to get an order up.
Another question, I have some Lee T/L sitting around for several years now, will that need any attention as far as thinning goes? Will warming it suffice?
Another question, I have some Lee T/L sitting around for several years now, will that need any attention as far as thinning goes? Will warming it suffice?
Warming will help, but it may need some good quality mineral spirits added to it. If it is too thick, it really needs to be thinned.
Ben
Longone
Active Member
Definitely going to need some Mineral spirits then, it's kinda like Molasses that has been sitting outside in the winter. Thanks for the pointers.
The 586 is really a lot of fun to shoot but it has been overshadowed by my 1911's, time to get it back into the cycle. Going back to acting like winter this coming week so it'll be a good time to assemble the items and get prepped to make a pile of those little barrels.
The 586 is really a lot of fun to shoot but it has been overshadowed by my 1911's, time to get it back into the cycle. Going back to acting like winter this coming week so it'll be a good time to assemble the items and get prepped to make a pile of those little barrels.
If it is that thick, you may need to put all of it in a glass jar like a jelly jar.
The ones with a tight seal lid.
That is what I keep mine in.
Turn the bottle upside down and pour the contents into the jelly jar.
Mix mineral spirits with it until it flows like Coke out of a bottle.
By putting it in the larger jar, you'll have room for the alox, the mineral spirits and have room to shake the 2 up well. If you can see " globs " of the alox inside the jar, you are not finished shaking the two up.
The seal on the jar keeps mine from turning thick again.
Notice the coating on one of my .30 cal. rifle bullets below.
Like fiver says, just a light gold coating is all you'll need.
Obviously you'll want the bullet large enough. Small diameter bullets will always lead regardless of what you use to lubricate them with.
Ben
The ones with a tight seal lid.
That is what I keep mine in.
Turn the bottle upside down and pour the contents into the jelly jar.
Mix mineral spirits with it until it flows like Coke out of a bottle.
By putting it in the larger jar, you'll have room for the alox, the mineral spirits and have room to shake the 2 up well. If you can see " globs " of the alox inside the jar, you are not finished shaking the two up.
The seal on the jar keeps mine from turning thick again.
Notice the coating on one of my .30 cal. rifle bullets below.
Like fiver says, just a light gold coating is all you'll need.
Obviously you'll want the bullet large enough. Small diameter bullets will always lead regardless of what you use to lubricate them with.
Ben
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Ian
Notorious member
Set the Alox bottle in a coffee cup half full of near-boiling water for about ten minutes, then add a splash of Johnson's One Step liquid floor wax if you have any. Shake the Alox bottle gently for about five minutes and put it back in the cup of hot water. Repeat until the Alox will all flow out. Then thin with One Step until it's about like .30-wt engine oil at room temperature, and you're good to go. I'd definitely put the mixture in a sealed container like Ben suggested, something you can nuke later if needed.
Longone
Active Member
I just went looking to see who sells the Johnson liquid wax and boy that must be real good stuff, best price I found was on E-bay, $53 for 22 oz can. Thank goodness we don't spill that on our floors. Maybe I should just try what Ben suggested with the Mineral spirits and see how that goes or better yet just get a new bottle.
Looking at the pic Ben posted my last effort with this stuff was way over done. I applied much to heavy a coat so I'll have to experiment with application technique and temps to just get a film.
Looking at the pic Ben posted my last effort with this stuff was way over done. I applied much to heavy a coat so I'll have to experiment with application technique and temps to just get a film.
waco
Springfield, Oregon
I had one. I had a problem with out of round bullets and didn't want to take the time to try and fix it. I just use my RCBS 148gr DEWC
Longone
Active Member
I'm sure MS will be just fine, besides, how am I going to know the difference, the little buggers are going to go where they want anyway.
Last time I was in TX I was at a Long range match at FT. Wolters and from what I hear they no longer shoot and long range there. It was one heck of a good time with really good folks.
Last time I was in TX I was at a Long range match at FT. Wolters and from what I hear they no longer shoot and long range there. It was one heck of a good time with really good folks.
JonB
Halcyon member
While I like both of the Lee WC designs, I prefer the traditional lube groove WC that is linked to, in the OP.
As to the old dried Alox, heat is your friend, Ian gives some pretty good and safe advice...I used a heatgun to soften one old bottle I had, the plastic started to melt, I had a bit of a mess, but it all worked out in the end, I just cut the top off below the shoulder and squeezed out most of it, used a screwdriver to get the rest out. I'm sad to admit this, but I have more than my fair share of hamfisted experiences, LOL.
As to the old dried Alox, heat is your friend, Ian gives some pretty good and safe advice...I used a heatgun to soften one old bottle I had, the plastic started to melt, I had a bit of a mess, but it all worked out in the end, I just cut the top off below the shoulder and squeezed out most of it, used a screwdriver to get the rest out. I'm sad to admit this, but I have more than my fair share of hamfisted experiences, LOL.
Ian
Notorious member
Why sad? That's how we get smarter. I've ruined a lot of stuff first try, call it 'over confidence', or not knowing what I didn't know beforehand.
JonB
Halcyon member
I've stories, trust me.
One of the Worst was with a Free Chex III ...I turned it into scrap metal, within minutes after making my first few GCs
edited: and anther one with a Remington 550-1 ...but I got luckly and sold the remaining good parts for nearly what I had invested in it (minus time, LOL).
One of the Worst was with a Free Chex III ...I turned it into scrap metal, within minutes after making my first few GCs
edited: and anther one with a Remington 550-1 ...but I got luckly and sold the remaining good parts for nearly what I had invested in it (minus time, LOL).