Muzzle loader bullets...

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I know its generally not sized. I also know generally there is no advantage to size these from a accuracy stand point...

BUT, I am having difficulty loading some I have cast. So thought I would try sizing them. I have a .498, .500 & .501 to try.

Wondered if anyone paved this road before?

CW

PS, like to try .54 too but see how 50 works. Then find proper sizers...
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
CW my short starter for my .54 was built with a brass hammer head for the handle. I was using R.E.A.L. bullets that were very tight to start. A tap with the brass hammer "sized them" as they started down the bore. This was in a TC Scout Carbine.
I just made the starter with a piece of 3/4" Brass hex stock for the hammer head. It worked pretty well. My Scout has a very quick twist barrel and doesn't do well with roundballs. It handles bullets and sabots pretty well. I quit fooling with the R.E.A.L. bullets and just use Sabots with jacketed or 310gr. "Ballets" (a sort of skirted round ball).
I tried to find the starter for a picture but either misplaced it or gave it to a buddy who still uses R.E.A.L.s.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I assume you aren't talking round balls. I'm with Rick, I thought that's what the short starter was for. I'd also note that when my 54 seems to be harder to load, I've swabbed the barrel out, polished actually, with 4/0 steel wool. I don't recall the exact events, but I know at one time I had to pull the breech plug and do some serious crud/rust removal and while it still shoots good, the barrel isn't as smooth as it once was. I think I lent the gun out, always a mistake!!! Anyhoo, if you feel "tight" spots when pushing the bullet home, you could do worse than some polishing with 4/0 steel wool. You won't hurt the barrel at all.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I have shot conicals for a long time. But almost always bought Maxi Ball and Hunter bullets. I bought a Great Plains bullet about 1995 and thats when issues began. Along the way I picked up maxi molds in 50/54. My Renegade was ok but noticeably more difficult. I was using plumbers lead and flashing as alloy.

Two or three years ago I cast a large quantity figuring it would last me "forever" Well the 54 are simply un useable. I was able to shoot a couple 50's in the Renegade but cannot get them down my H&R inline barrels. NOt even started... they are too large. I also tried PC. That made it worse as they increase dia a few thousands.

Sizing seems obvious easy answer.

Yea Conicals only balls are fine.

CW
 

richhodg66

Well-Known Member
I've used the Lyman Great Plains bullet on a lot of deer and it is a good one, never had any trouble loading it in my rifle, but all of them are a little different.

I like the REAL design. Seems to generally shoot well in everything. I've never used one on game and it doesn't have the meplat the plains bullet does, but I can't see that mattering much with a bullet of .50 caliber.

Curious, because I never thought about it, but how would you go about sizing bullets that big? Do they make standard style sizer luber dies that big?
 

Maven

Well-Known Member
CW, A couple of thoughts on .50cal. conicals:

1) Lee 320gr. REAL's may need to be beagled or even paper patched for a good fit in your rifle.

2) Maxi-Balls can be quite accurate if they fit your bore. Of the two major brand moulds, e.g., Lyman and Thompson/Center, I've found the T/C moulds to be much more consistent with respect to weight and diameter. Those that fit my Knight Bighorn's .50cal. (1:28 twist) best were the most accurate. Btw, that rifle is also quite accurate with RB's, but with reduced powder charges, e.g., no more than 50gr. of real BP, FFg.

3) Saboted cast pistol bullets, either Lyman #429421 or the RCBS clone, may be worth exploring, but you'll then have to contend with "plastic" as well as powder fouling. MMP green High Pressure sabots are what I used.

4) Long ago Starmetal [Joe] gave me a .50cal. Minie Ball mould, which my Knight rifle really didn't care for. However, once I paper patched it, 50 yd. groups were cut almost in half. Hardly one hole, but something like 2 1/2" - 3.5". Maybe this is an avenue you want travel?

Hope this helps you out!


P.S. My gun was not at all happy with the T/C Maxi-Hunter HP conicals I purchased.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
CW, what gun are you using? I would not size them down to any of those sizes unless you are going to paper patch them. Then the .5 and .501 would probably be the size you need. All molds you buy commercially is a tapered design. The lyman great plains bullet mold has a bad reputation on several ml boards for bad accuracy.

Lee's might work but you can not drive them very fast as they have almost no bearing surface. Just make sure you use some kind of wad below it. I use the wool felt wads. It made a HUGE difference on how they shot.

I still have not got out to shoot mine yet since I cut off the QLA muzzle. Hopefully this week. I am waiting on a new mold just for this.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Mostly wanting my two H&R Side Kicks ta shoot full bore conicals.

I saw the taper. But as I see it, I cant use as I have them...
 
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CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I have a BUNCH of old orange bottle Pyrodex RS. I have been using

I finally last year found a reasonably price on Black Horn 209. So I have it but have not used.

I also have a few pounds of BLK but reserve it for the perc rifles.

CW
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Started with black. Didn't finish the can. Switched to Pyrodex "RS" but found it too coarse to my liking. Now, I only use Pyrodex "P" works in my two rifles, as well as, the ROA.
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
I mostly use "777". Still use Goex fff in the sidelock guns. The crud ring is there with "777" but if you put a wet patch down the bore every 3 rounds it is a non issue. Almost the same performance as BlackHorn 209 and much cheaper. It is much easier to ignite as well.
My Walmart was blowing out firearm related "stuff" about 5yrs ago. I picked up 777 pellets for $14/box and loose for $17.95/lb. I bought all they had and wish I could have bought more. I have seen no signs of either pellets nor loose powder degrading with time. Accuracy and velocities have remained the same.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Years ago, A good friend up and sold all his BP stuff but pistols but decided he wasnt gonna shoot them just enjoy having them. Shop would not buy ANY supplies just guns. So he gave all to me. I got couple bottles of P and a couple more bottles of RS plus Jim Shokie GOLD and White hots pellets as well as measures, flasks, bullets & patches...

I have t tried P yet. I have some hi pressure aabots and ended up choosing my cast 45 in them for fodder last season. They shoot quite well but if I gonna shoot a 50/54 why shoot a 44/45 bullet???? :p;)
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
I don't have ignition problems with Pyrodex. My rifles were converted to use SPP's with the Accra-Shot nipple. Firing pin built into the screw on cap.............. plus, no need to worry about a percussion cap falling off, walking to or from your hunting spot.

Not my rifle, stole the picture off the internet.

img-2634_2_orig.jpg
 

Missionary

Well-Known Member
Years back our Target Store was selling out all gun stuff. Got a TC Hawken .50 for $50. Bought all the Pyro RS and Cartridge for $4 a pound. That stuff works great in our 1.1 cannon. On 4 July when up north fire the 1st load at 9 am. Then every hour till 6pm. At noon hour we fire every 15 minutes. Still have 5 pounds to go...
We use dried grass cuttings for wadding so there in no mess to clean up.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I don't have ignition problems with Pyrodex. My rifles were converted to use SPP's with the Accra-Shot nipple. Firing pin built into the screw on cap.............. plus, no need to worry about a percussion cap falling off, walking to or from your hunting spot.

Not my rifle, stole the picture off the internet.

View attachment 29710
I have one, found musket caps where better for me. Many missfires. Here too IIRC.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
I used the Accr-Shot from the get go. I like the fact it has about a 1/8" diameter hole, when I can verify the powder made it right up to the primer.