Muzzle loader bullets...

[Tomme boy]

The BH209 will not work. It has to be used in a inline and have the right breech plug and use a MAG 209. It also has to have high resistance on the sabot. If not it will have misfires and hangfires.

I was doing some more surfing late last night. Idaho Lewis was showing how he was loading his muzzle loaders. He is sizing his bullets like the guys do for paper patch. To have just some resistance so that the bullet will stay on the powder and not move. I have not tried this. But looking at some of his targets and the distances he shoots at is crazy. It must work.

So I would slug the barrels and size to 0.001"-0.002" over size and see what happens.

As to the pyro, it might not be any good if it is that old. It sucks moisture like crazy even if it has not been open. The longer it has been open or old the harder it is to lite off. That is where everyone says it is hard to ignite. I had some that was having a little click bang. It was throwing me off. Went to a new jug and it went away. This was powder that I opened the year before.

I remember back in the 90's one of the magazines did a 1 year test on pyro. They took a unopened bottle. They loaded and chronoed the bottle as a baseline. They then waited 1 month and shot the same load again. They did this each month for a year. Each month the velocity went down. They talked to Hodgdon and they were told that it is moisture from opening the bottles. So each year I was hunting after hat I always bought a new bottle to hunt with.

So I would at least try the powder. If you have any ignition problems at all I would get some new powder.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I got some REAL bullets cast and pan lubed. But guess something has been "lost" in remelting as it didnt stay "stuck" to bullet when pushed thru. SO, I just hand lubed about fifty.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I didnt do any sizing or PC here. They are max of .515 but average .512 Known soft pure lead with touch of tin.

CW

 

[Glaciers]

Those are big pellets CW, and they don’t look painted!

 

[Walks]

I've never had a problem igniting Pyrodex, either in a Revolver or T/C Hawken/White MTN Carbine. "P" works well in revolvers, "RS" works well in Caplocks.
Pyrodex not so good in Flintlocks.
But it is an absolute nightmare to clean, rusts faster then anything else.

 

[Missionary]

Pyro-Ruster would be a better name. That is why it only gets used in our 1.1". With a 17" barrel it is real easy to get it all out.

 

[Winelover]

I use Pyrodex "P" in all three of my muzzleloaders, both here in humid Arkansas and Michigan. Never a hint of rust. I religious clean them after shooting. Never found Pyrodex to absorb water and solidify or deteriorate, in the original container or in the premeasured 12 gauge recycled shotshell, I use for loading.



This particular container is more than ten years old. Purchased it at a Gander Mountain store in Michigan. Price tag on can says Gander Mtn @ $10.50....................I'm guessing 20 years old, at least.



No evidence of clumping. Those premeasure charges exhibit the same. Last time I shot a muzzleloader was in 2018, when I took a 8 point, with the Renegade.............so they are at least that old. I have three unopened containers that were purchased from PV when I relocated to Arkansas. So they are at least ten years old. I have full confidence that they are fine.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Same here. My bottles are at least as old as yours and spark & Ignite perfectly. Rusting only if left uncleaned.

I reserve my BP for my side locks. But have used this in them too with acceptable results. But BP is better no doubt.

Hahaha. Yea, no paint on these!! Im concerned about the increase in dia and loading problems. Im waiting on sizers still.

 

[Bret4207]

I got some REAL bullets cast and pan lubed. But guess something has been "lost" in remelting as it didnt stay "stuck" to bullet when pushed thru. SO, I just hand lubed about fifty.

View attachment 29816View attachment 29817View attachment 29818View attachment 29819

You need to whip up a "cake cutter" type tool so you can avoid the hand lubing mess.

 

[Bret4207]

I think I have some unopened Pyrdoex from the early 80's, and a mostly full can too. Never did get fond of it.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

You need to whip up a "cake cutter" type tool so you can avoid the hand lubing mess.

I had one but for the life off me.... Couldnt find it!!

I have a bunch of 50 BMG cases but necks just a lil tight.

 

[hporter]

CW,

I bought a star sizer die for my 1859 Sharps .54 carbine projectiles. Though I am not sizing them, it works well for cleanly squirting my homemade SPG copycat lube into the grooves. With the short carbine barrel, it seems to carry enough lube with just the grooves filled.

I will have to try some of my Lee .54 REAL bullets with the Star and report back. I haven't tried them yet.

Here is a photo I have posted before of a dipped x-mas tree on the left and a x-mas tree on the right after going through the Star. I had left them in 100 degree Texas sun all day to see if my lube would bleed out. They got rained on a little, but the lube stayed put.

 

[hporter]

I thought I had some of the bigger heavier ones cast up, but nope, just these shorties.



But they sail right through the Star without much cleanup to do.

 

[Missionary]

What would be about the max diameter sizer die a Star could handle ?

 

[Brad]

The body of a Star die is .750. If you take into account the reduction for lube to flow into the lube holes call it .700 max, more likely .680. That means if you want a .050 wall you max out at .580.
I think that is really pushing it, I wouldn’t want to go over .510

 

[hporter]

Per the magma website:



My die is a used one that I bought on eBay, and is .557. It works fine. It is too large to size my .54 projectiles, but I only wanted it to lube with, so it works for me.

I am curious Brad, why you wouldn't go over .510? Bullets that large are seldom cast of a hard alloy.

 

[Missionary]

Thank you !!
With use on pure I guess the stress is somewhat less.

 

[Brad]

Per the magma website:

View attachment 29851

My die is a used one that I bought on eBay, and is .557. It works fine. It is too large to size my .54 projectiles, but I only wanted it to lube with, so it works for me.

I am curious Brad, why you wouldn't go over .510? Bullets that large are seldom cast of a hard alloy.

Safety factor? If I make one for someone I have no idea what alloy they may use.

It I am simply sizing a projectile I would actually prefer a Lee type push thru. Loading press handles the force way better than my Star.

I will agree that with a pure lead or lead/tin alloy the bullets won’t be as hard and certainly aren’t going to age harden like an ash containing alloy could.