My RCBS "Pro Melt" Lead Pot Story...

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
When I'm casting 41 cal 255gr ranchdogs with a 6 cav lee mold, that pot goes down quick, even when dropping the hot sprues off the top of the sprue plate into the pot. When using a mold like that, I often get to 25% or less, before stopping to add a bunch of cold ingots and taking a coffee break.

When I'm casting rifle bullets, all those details mentioned are the exact opposite.

A 40 pound Magma will cure all your problems. If I cast to a half pot that's 20 pounds of alloy. :rolleyes:
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
I run my 10# pot down to about a quarter of an inch with consistent pot temp. My TC is a quarter inch off the bottom of the pot and when the alloy clears, you see the digital readout start to drop like a rock.

Handy on a 10# pot that's been "paid for" for over thirty years now.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
...We might be setting the measurement bar a bit too precise only because WE CAN, not because we need to.

Honestly, I see it much like bottom-pour v. ladle or PC v. traditional lube. I don't see either option in any of the three examples as being objectively better overall as much as suiting the user.

Either way works and most of us can manage either way - it's more a matter of what little details each of us chooses to favor. I personally do not employ a lot of "technology" at home, especially doing what I do for enjoyment. Technology is what I do for a living and I leave as much of that AT work as I can.

This is not to dismiss the important details of BP/ladle or PC/traditional. There are definitely advantages to either option in all three cases. What's "better" is is specific to a user.

There's a lot I like about PC, but I can't say it's better. I use both and lean more heavily to tumble-lube.

I ladled for many years and struggled with bottom-pour for a while, but now prefer it ALMOST across the board.

I CAN cast the old way, but a PID controller (in my world) is sort of the down and dirty way to control process heating and it's easy enough to implement.

NOW, if you want to be able to do a ramp-soak, like for PC'ing, and store "recipes" for various operations, the little controllers can do that for you, while you finish sweeping the garage, empty the tumbler, run to the can, etc. Those cost a few buck more, but there is still potential to exploit.

I actually make all my students design and build control systems using old-fashioned, hard-wired electro-mechanical devices (including antique pneumatic timers) before they go to the next class and emulate the same using a computer - a PLC. Makes a huge difference in their ability to master the technology when they've mastered the more manual aspects of it. So again - I use both.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
It’s funny what people consider necessary vs what they can live without. I like PIDs because they help me enjoy my hobby. Some people don’t like them and are happier not messing with them, it detracts from their enjoyment of their hobby.

I’ve loaded thousands of rounds of handgun ammo on a single stage press and never felt the need for a progressive. I’ve entertained the idea of a turret press but never a progressive.

Some people love progressives, may actually need them. But I don’t need one to enjoy reloading.

But my reasons for liking PIDs and single stage presses might be exactly opposite someone else’s reasons.

Ain’t it nice to have a choice?
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
To be clear, I’m not disparaging a PID temperature controller. I understand the advantage of being able to direct your attention elsewhere. If you follow aviation at all, there are clearly times when an autopilot can take the workload off a pilot while he/she deals with another problem. The ability to delegate some functions to automation in the short term so that your brain can focus on something far more pressing, can be critical to success.

However, maintaining the temperature in an electric melting pot probably doesn’t require a lot spare brain power.

I may build a PID controller someday, the equipment isn’t expensive, and it might be a fun project. I’m not sure it would improve my enjoyment of the hobby. I like to keep simple things simple.
 

seagiant

Member
To be clear, I’m not disparaging a PID temperature controller. I understand the advantage of being able to direct your attention elsewhere. If you follow aviation at all, there are clearly times when an autopilot can take the workload off a pilot while he/she deals with another problem. The ability to delegate some functions to automation in the short term so that your brain can focus on something far more pressing, can be critical to success.

However, maintaining the temperature in an electric melting pot probably doesn’t require a lot spare brain power.

I may build a PID controller someday, the equipment isn’t expensive, and it might be a fun project. I’m not sure it would improve my enjoyment of the hobby. I like to keep simple things simple.
Hi,
If I can build a PID anybody can!

Once you use one, you will see why they are so well liked!

This Gentleman has a LOT of good info and helped me.


 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Hi,
But...Would that not be related?

If your Lead Temp is more steady and at optimum Temp, won't your Mold?

I would think so?
No. Mould temp is entirely controlled by the rate at which it is filled. Once your alloy is up to a pourable temp, the moulds temp depends on the guy pouring not farting around looking at the fresh castings or stopping to drink a soda, etc. You pour as fast as you can until you start getting good castings, and then you alter your rate of filling the mould to keep the temp where it need to be. If anything, a PID belongs ON THE MOULD, not the pot IMO. But who wants an electronic doohicky hanging off a mould?
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
But who wants an electronic doohicky hanging off a mold ?

Noe offers temp probe drill so there must be a market .

Several chapters have been written.
It varies from visualize pouring heat to hold the mould at 350° for most ww based alloy .
 

seagiant

Member
No. Mould temp is entirely controlled by the rate at which it is filled. Once your alloy is up to a pourable temp, the moulds temp depends on the guy pouring not farting around looking at the fresh castings or stopping to drink a soda, etc. You pour as fast as you can until you start getting good castings, and then you alter your rate of filling the mould to keep the temp where it need to be. If anything, a PID belongs ON THE MOULD, not the pot IMO. But who wants an electronic doohicky hanging off a mould?
Hi,
Well, I do agree about Casting Timing, sort of like feed rate on a Mill or Lathe, but...

Having the PID keep the Lead at a steady temp as the Lead is used HAS to help also, maybe even, very much?

As stated earlier above, depends on the Operators Goal and how fine he wants to draw the line.

NOETEMP004.jpg
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
My mold TC is a screw in type that screws into an 1/8" pipe threaded (NPT) hole. It has a braided cable that plugs into the PID. It's not really in the way when I cast.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
I just stick a bare, welded tip TC through a sprue hole and into a cavity while the mould preheats. Once it hits the temp I want, I pull it out and get to casting.
 

david s

Well-Known Member
Hi,
Well, I do agree about Casting Timing, sort of like feed rate on a Mill or Lathe, but...

Having the PID keep the Lead at a steady temp as the Lead is used HAS to help also, maybe even, very much?

As stated earlier above, depends on the Operators Goal and how fine he wants to draw the line.

View attachment 35499
I have the same NOE temperature probe setup but don't use it often. Most of my NOE moulds are undrilled and I haven't gotten around to drilling them for the probe. The concepts good but the execution leaves a bit to be desired.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
Well if I decide to build one.
I am going to have to go full out.
Need a PID-casting control center. You know, maybe 2 independent PID's in one. One for the pot, the other for the hot plate.
Extra probe to switch from hot plate to toaster oven.
Phone charger, breaker oulets.Flashing LEDs to let me know it's on. Just because they are cool. Plus temperature alarms, blue tooth speaker, bottle opener, rectal thermometer. Well you get the Idea.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
I drilled my molds because I wanted the data. At one point I thought about making some bullet molds and I wanted to be able to cast at a consistent temperature. I also wanted to see the heat fluctuations and compare various mold materials. Once i get started I generally take the TC off.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
a big pot of lead alloy doesn't need a fancy temperature control.
it does all that for you through sheer mass.

the Magma pots also have the ability to have a single spout besides the dual, or a blank so the handle etc. can be removed for a ladle pour pot.
you can put on or take off any of them.