New Accurate Mold Arrived

[Snakeoil]

My new 4-cavity 32-175T mold from Accurate arrived yesterday. To my disappointment, they forgot to include the nose punch I had ordered. I was also surprised to find that the config for the sprue plate is different on the mold than what I expected. Although the ordering page only shows one kind of sprue plate with the choices being standard or trough, it appears that 4-cavity and larger get a sprue plate with a different end by which the sprues are cut. Here is what I mean.

This is what I was expecting. This is what I received.


The first one better lends itself to a bench mounted bracket for opening, which is what I prefer. I find that 4-cavity and larger cannot be opened with a gloved hand, well not my arthritic gloved hand.


I sent an email to Tom last night that was probably too late for him to see. He's been very responsive in the past. I told him about the missing top punch, but also questioned the sprue plate shape. I truly do not understand the basis for that shape. My guess is it is designed to provide a flat surface for striking with a mallet. I'm curious what the holes in the sprue plate are for. I suppose they could be used to mount a handle to facilitate ease of opening. But a handle mounted to the sprue plate could be awkward during casting. They might be locating holes for set-up in the machining operation. I will use them to mount an adapter plate that will emulate the end of my NOE molds so that I can use the same sprue cutter bench bracket to cut the sprues. Making that plate is job one today and then I'll cast up a few bullets. Going to put the mold on the hot plate while I make the adapter and run it thru a few heat cycles to settle in the pins.

I noticed that Tom uses a wavy spring washer to position the sprue plate flat on the mold. First time I've seen this done. I imagine it will help prevent the common galling of the top of the mold over time. My concern however is it could allow the plate to flop around during the bullet drop process. With my adapter bolted to it, it might make it droop a bit and strike the face of the opposite mold half if it swings closed when the mold is open. Will have to watch for that when I start to use it and modify my technique if necessary.

Will hopefully hear from Tom later today. I was surprised to have the 6 week delivery time reduced to 4 weeks. Have been chomping at the bit waiting to try this new bullet.

 

[popper]

All my Accurate molds have the wave washer. Not a problem. I have one with the trough, don't like it as it dribbles into the 'off' hole. Holes maybe for automated caster?

 

[Wasalmonslayer]

I get one of the cheap lee six cavity sprue cutters and install it on there.
It works perfect.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I have both types.

I dont use a gloved hand and havent had issue. But see what your saying.

Yes its my understanding LEE sprue cracker design works on these sprue plates. Altho I haven't tried.

CW

 

[Snakeoil]

Problem solved.

 

[Winelover]

Why do you need a specific top punch for a flat nosed bullet? Just use a flat faced top punch for Lyman/RCBS sizer or Star. I doubt, Tom offers them for Star's. I quit purchasing top punches, when I got my Star and started sizing nose first. All I have are flat top punches in the caliber range I cast for. Even with spitzer, just use a pusher..........can be any flat nose bullet of the same caliber if you nose size. For the LAM, I only size flat nosed pistol bullets.

BTW, Lathesmith (Chris) retired.............not making Dies or punches, anymore.

I too was puzzled, why the design change on sprue plate, on my last Accurate mold. Works fine for my arthritic gloved hand.......when the mold is hot enough.






Top mold is an Accurate 340-201L, with the optional trough...........another variation. Some of his aluminum ones, have the angled sprue plate.

 

[Snakeoil]

Just came up from a casting session. So far, I'm not very happy with the mold. I ran it thru a couple of heat cycles on my hotplate and then started casting with 30:1.

It will not consistently fill out the bases. And I'm not talking rounded corners like a cold mold. I'm talking missing a portion of the base. Looking at the mold, it does not appear to be sufficiently vented. He uses the same pattern as Lee for vent grooves. I compared it to a new Lee I have and the Lee grooves appear to be deeper. The only way I could get it to more consistently fill out the base was by holding it tight to the spout on the RCBS furnace. I've never had to do that with any other mold. I even had his mold give the impression that it filled out and left a nice puddle only to open it and find several of the bullets with incomplete or totally missing base sections.

Why do you need a specific top punch for a flat nosed bullet? Just use a flat faced top punch for Lyman/RCBS sizer or Star.

I prefer to maximize the surface area when pushing the bullet thru the sizer. I want zero damage to the nose. Pushing a narrow nose bullet like this with 30:1 pretty much assures distortion.

Looking at your mold, the vent grooves in the top look deeper than mine. Could be because they are dark. I like the NOE style of venting better. It's horizontal lines, similar to a Lyman. Unfortunately, I have no way to measure the depth of those grooves. A pointed tip on an indicator would just scratch the aluminum and never provide a accurate reading. I may go look at my Last Word indicator, but suspect even that tiny ball tip is way too big. Plus it would never get to the true bottom of the groove which I suspect is a Vee shape.

With my NOE in .30 cal, it drops a perfect bullet first time out and did that from the day I got it. Even the Lee molds have dropped perfect bullets right off the bat. I preheat all my molds before I start casting.

I sent another email to Tom. I hope he's checking his email today. It's a bit frustrating to not be able to call and talk to someone when you have a problem. We'll see what he says. His reputation for quality molds is well known. But this is my first mold from Accurate. Missing nose punch was an inconvenience. I can make one in the interim. Just did not want to. Not not getting it to cast well has added to the frustration.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Good work around!! Works for you what do they say? Necessity is mother of invention!!

 

[Winelover]

Just came up from a casting session. So far, I'm not very happy with the mold. I ran it thru a couple of heat cycles on my hotplate and then started casting with 30:1.

It will not consistently fill out the bases. And I'm not talking rounded corners like a cold mold. I'm talking missing a portion of the base. Looking at the mold, it does not appear to be sufficiently vented. He uses the same pattern as Lee for vent grooves. I compared it to a new Lee I have and the Lee grooves appear to be deeper. The only way I could get it to more consistently fill out the base was by holding it tight to the spout on the RCBS furnace. I've never had to do that with any other mold. I even had his mold give the impression that it filled out and left a nice puddle only to open it and find several of the bullets with incomplete or totally missing base sections.

I prefer to maximize the surface area when pushing the bullet thru the sizer. I want zero damage to the nose. Pushing a narrow nose bullet like this with 30:1 pretty much assures distortion.

Looking at your mold, the vent grooves in the top look deeper than mine. Could be because they are dark. I like the NOE style of venting better. It's horizontal lines, similar to a Lyman. Unfortunately, I have no way to measure the depth of those grooves. A pointed tip on an indicator would just scratch the aluminum and never provide a accurate reading. I may go look at my Last Word indicator, but suspect even that tiny ball tip is way too big. Plus it would never get to the true bottom of the groove which I suspect is a Vee shape.

With my NOE in .30 cal, it drops a perfect bullet first time out and did that from the day I got it. Even the Lee molds have dropped perfect bullets right off the bat. I preheat all my molds before I start casting.

I sent another email to Tom. I hope he's checking his email today. It's a bit frustrating to not be able to call and talk to someone when you have a problem. We'll see what he says. His reputation for quality molds is well known. But this is my first mold from Accurate. Missing nose punch was an inconvenience. I can make one in the interim. Just did not want to. Not not getting it to cast well has added to the frustration.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

Maybe, if your using an in and out sizer, like the Lyman or RCBS. Main reason I went to the Star for rifle bullets>>>nose first, self aligning, without distortion. I don't see how any top punch can exactly match the profile of every bullet mold. You can get size variations, just by changing alloys.

This is the inside venting of my most recent Accurate iron mold. I don't have venting issues with any of Tom's molds. I've used all the different types of material , he offers, for molds. BTW, I converted to ladle casting, just a few years ago.

All molds have their own quirks. Some, for complete fill out, require pressure casting...........but that's a rarity.



Now MP molds are a whole different animal. Biggest complaint is undersized gas checks. Won't be purchasing any more. Same with NOE..............despise his RG design. Nothing belongs on the bottom of a mold.

 

[Snakeoil]

Your vent grooves are much more distinct than mine. You also have more grooves than my mold, yet both are 4 cavity. With the mold cool, I went down and just used my fingernails to inspect the grooves. I can barely feel them. More like scratches than grooves. Here is a shot of the vent grooves and two bullets that are typical of what i was getting on a repeated basis.

 

[Winelover]

The one on the right, is definitely exhibiting pronounced rounded bands>>>>> mold is too cold. Possibly, alloy is also, or nozzle flow is restricted. Aluminum doesn't hold heat, like brass or iron. Resulting in having to cast faster. Personally, aluminum is my least favorite mold material. I learned to cast with RCBS iron molds and that material is still my preference. I own only one Lee mold, a conical for my ROA. Purchased before custom makers were as available as they are today.

 

[Winelover]

Just checked the venting depth on the different materials that Tom offers...........with the fingernail test.

Seems the aluminum has the least depth, brass is middle of the road, iron is deepest.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Its pretty easy to vent @ the mold halves. I have had to do this in more then a few and never had it a issue...

CW

 

[popper]

I had to smoke my last accurate 2 hole, then it cast fine. Smoke wore off and it still does fine.

 

[Ben]

To me, those bullets look like the alloy and / or the mould is too cool.
I say, kick the temp up on both.
Are you certain the mould is totally free of any oils, etc ?
Is the sprue plate loose enough that it can swing of it's own weight.

 

[Jeff H]

That new sprue plate would work for me. I dump bullets with the mould upside down and could easily adapt to a light tap on that protrusion as it presents itself when I invert the mould.

MOST of the newer vent likes are a bit haphazard, or a crap-shoot as to whether one of them terminates where you want it to. I had one mould in the past few years where I had to do the old trick of making a small bevel on the faces of the mould at the top edge to get good base fill-out.

I'm with Ben on oil and/or temps. I tend to cast hotter than many anyway, but the biggest problem I've ever had with a new mould from a reputable maker has been residual oil. Hot-water scrub with Dawn/scouring powder, boiling rinse and let dry before the first heat cycle has been good, but not always complete. I've had to clean a few two or three times to get them to settle in. Not always, but once in a while.

Every new mould seems to be a learning experience for me. A few have made me question whether I have ANY clue as to what I'm doing with a casting pot to begin with.

 

[Ben]

I've had to clean a few two or three times to get them to settle in.

Me too ! !

Ben

 

[Snakeoil]

To me, those bullets look like the alloy and / or the mould is too cool.
I say, kick the temp up on both.
Are you certain the mould is totally free of any oils, etc ?
Is the sprue plate loose enough that it can swing of it's own weight.

That was my thought at first. But I'm using the same setting I always use on that furnace and I check it with a thermometer. It's in the 700F range.

I scrubbed the mold with Dawn dish detergent, twice. It should be clean.

The sprue plate is a little snug. No cannot swing by its own weight. Although, I did start the day with it loose and free swinging. The problem was the slightest movement would cause it to move and I snugged it up. It's not clamped down tight by any means. Just snug enough to stay put when I close it.

Tom has already replied back and said to send the mold back and he will do his best to correct things. I may give it one more try tonight and crank up the temp to see if it makes a difference. The reason I think it is a venting issue is because it casted much better holding it tight to the spout.

 

[Snakeoil]

A few have made me question whether I have ANY clue as to what I'm doing with a casting pot to begin with.

I'm no expert for sure. But I've cast enough bullets to at least think I know what I am doing. Could be I've been just plain lucky over 40 years of casting on and off and the problems have bypassed me. But even with borrowed molds, some which have been abused and molds that I've machined out the gas checks myself, I've never had them fail to fill out. Sure, with a cold mold or alloy, I've gotten rounded edges on plain base bullets. But have a major portion of the base not fill out and there be a big puddle on the sprue plate??

 

[Ben]

I just have not had any luck with bottom pour.
I've used a ladle since 1967.

Ben