Powder coat varieties

[Ian]

I just checked the MSDS on HF red and black and they are indeed both epoxy. I didn't know much about the different powders when I bought my first pound of Polyester TGIC and started putting bullets downrange by the hundreds. I haven't had any issues with coating or shooting them, so I must have gotten lucky. Still planning to do the work to see if Titegroup will eat the urethane and if the urethane powder will shoot well....or eat up a barrel...

 

[62chevy]

I just checked the MSDS on HF red and black and they are indeed both epoxy. I didn't know much about the different powders when I bought my first pound of Polyester TGIC and started putting bullets downrange by the hundreds. I haven't had any issues with coating or shooting them, so I must have gotten lucky. Still planning to do the work to see if Titegroup will eat the urethane and if the urethane powder will shoot well....or eat up a barrel...

If you want to know how TiteGroup is with powder coatings then a very small plastic container with a few grains of powder and one bullet laid in it should do the trick.

 

[KHornet]

Have not gotten into PC bullets, but do have some appreciation for them as they are easy to spot and pick up in the berms.

 

[Ian]

I plan to put some bullets in contact with powder and see what happens, I just have to be careful what container I use because the whole issue is with plastic absorbing nitroglycerin. Wouldn't be a valid test if I used a pill bottle and the bottle sucked up nitrates.

Hey Brad, what kind of containers do you use for nitro tabs?

Last night I stayed up way too late reading Mntgun's six-page thread on CBA...he's getting down consistently under 2 moa at 27-2800 fps using bevel-based, coated cast bullets. Hi Tek and tumbled poly powder coat are the two that are working best for him. He added gas checks for one experiment and it actually shot WORSE. Pretty amazing, he said that 2K fps is the max for plain-base/bevel base 6mm without coating.

 

[Brad]

We keep them in the special glass bottles the manufacturer ships them in. They should never be put in any other container.

I have never really given Hi-tek a work out in rifles beyond some pistol cartridge lever actions. In those rifles it did just fine at any sane velocity.

 

[Ian]

Glass is what I thought. I see people with tiny glass bottles around their necks with their "nitro pills" inside.

 

[Brad]

Many of those are metal. I don't know how long the tabs remain effective once placed in those containers. Considering it is one of the few true "life and death" drugs I wouldn't take a chance?

 

[Maven]

This is from the mayoclinic.org site:

Store the extended-release capsules in a closed container at room temperature, away from heat, moisture, and direct light.

Sublingual tablets should be kept in the original glass bottle. Screw the cap on tightly after each use and store the bottle at room temperature, away from heat, moisture, and direct light.

 

[358156 hp]

Hmmm, Wearing them around your neck would seem to be contraindicated.

Hey! I used a big word!

 

[Brad]

Better yet, you used it correctly!

 

[freebullet]

I just checked the MSDS on HF red and black and they are indeed both epoxy. I didn't know much about the different powders when I bought my first pound of Polyester TGIC and started putting bullets downrange by the hundreds. I haven't had any issues with coating or shooting them, so I must have gotten lucky. Still planning to do the work to see if Titegroup will eat the urethane and if the urethane powder will shoot well....or eat up a barrel...

Interesting, that's opposite of my guess about being epoxy.

The loads I have containing tg & hf powder were stored willy nilly in a ziploc. I didn't notice any issues with them at 1+ yr old.

It won't be long & you'll have a blended powder coat homebrew. I have some 2 part urethane bedliner coating (like home spray linex) I could brush coat some bullets next time I spray it & give it a try.

 

[Ian]

I drug out my old Winchester vibratory case tumbler, cleaned it up, and tried to use it to coat some bullets with the urethane powder. I had serious reservations about the vibratory tumbler idea to begin with, but lots of people seem to have reliable results using one. Didn't work with urethane, so I cleaned it out and tried a second batch of bullets with a Polyester TGIC powder, it still sucks. They get coated, but everywhere the bullets touch each other or the container it gets raked off. Pretty useless. Guess I'll have to go buy some more cool whip, feed it to the fire ants, and carry on.

 

[gman]

That sucks. I get a good coating with the powder I ordered from smoke using a vibratory tumbler. Mine turned out better than the shake method with the air soft bb's.

 

[Ian]

There were plenty enough positive reviews, how-tos, and videos on the subject to finally get me to try it, but I have better luck with the cool whip container and the "inferior" yellow airsoft bbs. The urethane is going to be a spray-only thing, I managed to get a few usable .38 TL bullets the other night, but the coating is too easy to disturb before baking for it to be practical. My hopes had been that the vibratory tumbler would fix that, but not so. The poly powder stuck ok using the tumbler, but had too many slashes, dings, and wiped-off parts to work. When shaking in a container with bbs I don't have this problem nearly so bad.

 

[Maven]

I don't powder coat as I have too much invested in conventional sizing & lubing stuff, but a few years ago someone from Cast Boolits sent me ~20 pc'd Lee .38 cal. SWC's along with some other CB's. I loaded them over 4.4gr. Unique along with an equal no. of Lee 38-SWC-TLs (tumble lubed) for testing in my Mod. 10 (4" heavy bbl.) S & W. Other than a somewhat unpleasant organic odor upon firing, I found no differences in accuracy, but the point of impact changed. No leading with either CB, btw.

 

[yodogsandman]

Haven't read anything about urethane coated bullets. Have you shot any yet? Hope it doesn't make a mess of the bore!

We sometimes have to sand on urethane coated panels at work....it smears when it gets heated much!

 

[Ian]

The urethane definitely has a "cushy" feeling to it, not like pvc tool handle dip, but not like the hard-as-glass polyester. I haven't shot any yet, in fact am a little discouraged to do so due to the difficulty of coating without an ES setup. I've had such good luck so far with poly and ASBBSB that I'm disinclined to mess with ES.

 

[yodogsandman]

ESPC would leave the bases uncoated, TiteGroup wouldn't be any problem then. You're having so much good luck with the ASBBSB method using polyesters and epoxies, I wouldn't bother. I wouldn't want to have to clean up urethane in a suppressor, for sure. ESPC bullets are smoother and prettier but take a lot of handling and preparation time.

I have the Harbor Freight ES set up but, have not used it in over a year. At least since Ben released his BLL formula. BLL is just so much faster to apply and much more accurate, at least with rifle bullets.

I'd like to see where someone swaged some rifle bullets, ESPC'd them as best as they could and then re-swaged them again. Maybe I don't understand the process well enough to even think it could work? Consistency of bullet dimensional size and PC application will be the key to real accuracy with speed, I think.

 

[Paden]

Interesting thread which I'll continue to follow. And tho I'll never father children, reading this makes me appreciate the natural wonder that is bees wax more and more.

 

[Hawk]

Did anyone ever test other powders with PC for corrosion?

I've had a bullet pc'd with the Black Powder from Smoke on the CB forum, sealed in a glass bottle with the old Unique for nearly a year with no interaction between the PC coating and boolit.

Has any other test been run or is it in another thread that I missed?