Powder coating question

L1A1Rocker

Active Member
I was kinda thinking. . .

colorbullets02.jpg



DSC01161.jpg


Not my photos, just some pics pulled off the internet with an image search.
 

SierraHunter

Bullshop jr
SH; if you've mastered using HF paint, you'll love Smoke's powder paints. What is immediately noticeable is how fine the pwd is and how easy it is to get to stick with the shake n bake method.
Not gonna say I've mastered it. But I do have it working well. My next thing is to build some kind of rack to hold up my 235gn 30 cal boat tails so it's not like playing domino's trying to get them into the oven.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Someone has figured out the right color for copper, too. I'm betting those powders are the base-coat, clear coat variety.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
if the blue wasn't in there I would almost think Hi-Tek.
they make gold, black, green and red like that.
but they all look like they have a color base and a clear P/C over it.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
HF paints are epoxy. You want Polyester TGIC-crosslinked powders instead.
Has anybody experimented with the TGIC free powders yet? I found mention of them in my research, they are a Primid cured polyester, so they don't require heat. I'm guessing they are considerably more expensive, but there appears to be some fallout hanging over the TGIC powders because of toxicity? Anyway, I'd be interested in a two-part air-cured version. I'm still waffling on PC, even after all this time.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I was going to try some of the TGIC-free thermoset powders early on but honestly lost interest pretty fast because the TGIC worked so much better than epoxy and Polyurethane. The toxicity is negligible if you are extremely careful not to get the dust airborne or spill it. With the shake method and a good sealed container with silicone gasket on the lid, and some common sense you will have no mess and no free powder dust floating around. Wear a good particle mask anyway in case of an aschitt and keep a real HEPA vac handy. Once it's cured its safer than chee-tos.
 

Kevin Stenberg

Well-Known Member
358156Hp I just went to there site. Purty expensive.
There in another distributor for PC powders on CB. Randy Rat. Very good prices but a limited color selection. Kevin
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
Some are expensive, the RAL color powders like Smokes are pretty competitive. They also have some sale powders at blowout prices, plus they have their own forum. It doesn't seem to cover bullets though.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
How many bullets, say a 45 ACP 230 RN, does a pound coat?
 

gman

Well-Known Member
Wish I had a round count for you Brad but 1# of smoke's powder will do a bunch of those bullets.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Just trying to do some $ math. If a pound will do 2500 bullets and costs 25/pound it adds a penny per bullet. That isn't bad at all, way cheaper than buying gas checks!
 

Ian

Notorious member
Brad, my guess would be at least 10,000, probably closer to 15,000. I've coated about 1,000 .338s, 2,800 30-230s, 3,500 45-230s, and still have about half the pound container left.

I've been paying $15-18/lb for basic colors and as much as $22-23 for stuff like "Kawasaki Green". Plus a couple bucks upcharge for the essential plastic screw-top container and freight charges if you go with PBTB. I consider PC to be VERY cost-effective, especially considering the hundreds of dollars I've spent on bullet lube, lube-sizers, dies, wax, grease, oil, and other related gear. Since you already have the oven and PID, you're going to be out powder cost, a $5 sandwich storage container, a few bucks for Airsoft bbs, and a roll of non-stick foil.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Sometimes we see the upfront cost but not the long run savings. 10-15 K bullets is more than a few sticks of lube.