S&W .38-44 Heavy Duty

[oscarflytyer]

S&W .38-44 Heavy Duty​

Just won one on GB. Been on the list for awhile. I am an Elmer fan and know some of the history of this model. But, interested in practical experience. This one will see 158 SWC and 173 SWC cast. No intent to shoot it loose, but def push it to it's original design limits. Assuming Unique and 2400.

 

[358156 hp]

Here's a start for you. As always, approach the max loads carefully. Someone from "Handloader" magazine sent these to me long, long, ago. The second charts appears to be more conservative. I've shot a lot of 38-44 loads through my heavy 357 guns with great results. Hope it helps!

 

[oscarflytyer]

Thanx. Have HL mags back to ~2010. And LoadData. This is one I have wanted for awhile. Only seen one or maybe two at gun shows. I have 38 molds in 158/173/195 gr. Looking fwd to this one!

 

[RicinYakima]

I owned this 38/44 twice; once in the 1970's but traded it into the LGS for something else, and then bought it back after 10 years. The owner in the middle had it "med-i-lifed" I think the process is call, a hard chrome put on as a vapor. While mechanically excellent, it was an ex-cop gun with little original finish left. While made in 1932, it still shoots very well, but weights a ton. It gets a diet of Keith 173's with 11.0 grains of 2400 and Thompson 155's with 12.5 grains.

 

[Bret4207]

I don't have a 38/44, but 12-13.5 of 2400 and a 358156 seated in 38 brass makes a fine load on the hotter end. I used the 13.5 in gun I never should have. My M28 would be a much better choice for this load than the (IIRC) Colt Cobra I used it in!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Petrol & Powder]

Ric, I like that hard chrome finish. Metalife was one of the names applied to that, but it is also known as hard chrome or industrial chrome. On a working gun, particularly one that has already lost its original finish, it has a lot going for it.
In today's world there are an amazing array of finishes available and some of them have incredible properties, but hard chrome has been around for a long time. Hard chrome offers excellent protection from rust, but it is also very hard, adding resistance to wear. And it wasn't super expensive.

 

[Rick H]

I have always liked Hard Chrome. That HC S&W is a good looking workhorse. I might put wood grips on it but the Pachmyrs will do just fine. (I have to laugh at myself, my L-frame wears rubber grips too) I think any accurate load moving a 155-165gr. SWC at 950-1050 fps will handle most any problem one is likely to need a handgun for.

 

[RicinYakima]

I have always liked Hard Chrome. That HC S&W is a good looking workhorse. I might put wood grips on it but the Pachmyrs will do just fine. (I have to laugh at myself, my L-frame wears rubber grips too) I think any accurate load moving a 155-165gr. SWC at 950-1050 fps will handle most any problem one is likely to need a handgun for.

My old notes say that the 155 Thompson with 12.5 grains of 2400 clocks at 1080 f/s from this revolver, less than what the books report. It also now has Magma wood grips with a grip adaptor. That picture was taken years ago when I wrote an article on the history of 2400 powders and its uses in the 38 special.

 

[CZ93X62]

No experience with the 38/44 per se, but the 357 Magnum is likely my most-fired handgun caliber over the past 45 years. Perusal of the "Handloader" 38/44 data shows that it differs little from the 1990-era SAAMI specs revision (downward) for the 357 Magnum. My practice loads in 357 Magnum (4" 686) duplicate the two factory loads my shop used over the years--

W-W Super-X (158 grain JHP)--Lyman #358156 atop 13.5 grains of 2400, sparked by CCI #500 primers, 1235 FPS.

Federal #357B (125 grain JHP)--Speer 125 grain JHP, 17.5 grains 0f 2400, CCI #500 again. 1425 FPS.

As best I can tell from published data and chronography, these loads are within the current SAAMI specs for 357 Magnum revolvers. Caveat emptor, semper.

 

[Charles Graff]

The first handgun I actually held in my hand was a 38-44 that lived in my Grandfather's sock drawer. I figured out how to unload it and load it back without adult supervision. I memorized every marking and detail of the revolver and looked at the catalog sections of a very old Gun Digest in the library to identify the model.

About 1992, I found the below revolver in an Odessa Texas pawn shop for sale at $125.00. It had a flaking after market nickle plate finish on it. I had it de-nickled and blued. It is a 1947 "transition model", Click on the pic.

 

[Bret4207]

I'll give ya $126.00 right now Charles!!! She's a beaut!

 

[JustJim]

The first 357 I shot was a 38-44 the local sheriff (and grandfather of one of my classmates) had re-chambered back in the late 30s/early 40s. I later carried the same gun a couple times on search parties. He usually had it loaded with 38 HD loads.

I've wanted one ever since, just haven't stumbled across the right deal. Looking forward to seeing what Oscar got (and having less competition in the search!).

That one Ric showed may be the ultimate for a modern user, will have to keep that in mind while shopping.

 

[oscarflytyer]

Jim - one I got has a cpl issues, but should be minor. There were two ending same time. Most I have seen have been N of $1K - this one was a decent amount S of that. one I didn't chase had freckling, etc. One I got has incorrect factory grips (ok with that) and front sight has some buggering, but I think some judicious file/polishing/bluing touchup and will be great. May even be the first one I finally get a Tyler T grip for. Another one that I have looked at for a long time. Looking fwd to this one for sure

 

[Bret4207]

The Tylers are a nice addition and period correct to boot.

 

[CZ93X62]

I've only had one chance at a S&W 38/44, about 12 years ago in Boise, ID in the company of Onceabull at one of his favorite toy emporiums. Finish was OK, lots of honest holster wear on an original nickel-finished 4". Price was on the high side of reasonable for a pre-war example, but we still had kids in college back then, and disposable income for a vanity keepsake seemed upside down at the time. Not one of my Holy Grails, but a nice-shape S&W 38/44 might find room in my safe these days.

 

[JustJim]

The last one I had in hand was a very nice Outdoorsman w/long (8 3/8"?) barrel. Asking was very reasonable. Too reasonable. I gave it a serious look... the barrel had TWO bulges. I walked away, but it still bothers me.

There's an early 5" Model 28 in a nearby pawnshop. Good mechanics, holster-worn finish. Asking is right at $1k. At odd moments I find myself pondering if it would satisfy my desire for an N frame 38.

 

[Petrol & Powder]

There's an early 5" Model 28 in a nearby pawnshop. Good mechanics, holster-worn finish. Asking is right at $1k. At odd moments I find myself pondering if it would satisfy my desire for an N frame 38.

A Model 28 (or 27) is for all practical purposes the evolution of a 38/44 Outdoorsman, but they will never hold the same nostalgic place in history of a 38/44 Outdoorsman. Both great revolvers, but different history.

If I was seeking a nice N-frame 357 mag, I could probably lay down $1k for a nice 5" Model 27 and not be too upset about that afterwards if the gun was unmolested and in excellent condition. But If I really wanted a N-frame 38 Special (a real 38/44 Outdoorsman) I couldn't part with $1K for a Model 27 or 28 and sleep at night. I would always be second guessing myself that I should have waited for a 38/44 to come along.
If you're looking for a particular gun to scratch an itch - it has to be that particular gun, or you'll never be completely satisfied.

I'm not saying that a $1000 for an all-there, all-correct, good condition Model 28 is out of the ballpark, but it would need to be the gun you wanted, not the gun you settled for.

 

[CZ93X62]

When it comes to S&W, never say "Never" and never say always.....but the Model 28 came only with 4" or 6" barrels. The 27 came with 3.5", 4", 5", 6.5", and 8-3/8" barrels over the years and ideations. A 5" M-28 would be a very rare animal (if OEM), or it's a 27, or its a 28 with a 27 barrel. If it is a 5" 27, jump on that critter at $1K. 27 barrels have checkering on the rib tip, 28 barrels have straight fine fluting. It it's a 28 with a 27 barrel, it would be a great shooter (if the barrel cylinder gap is within spec) but the price needs to go significantly downward from $1K.

 

[Petrol & Powder]

I caught that distinction concerning the 5" barrel and model 28 designation by JustJim. That configuration would give me concern that it wasn't original and that's why I commented that the gun would have to be unmolested, a model 27 and in excellent condition, to justify the price.
A model 27 might be equipped with a 5" barrel from the factory but it would be exceedingly rare for a model 28 to leave the factory like that.

Now, I buy guns to shoot, and I'm not always concerned that guns are all original. That being said, if you're paying for a collector's grade all original gun, it needs to be a collector's grade all original gun.

 

[Bret4207]

I have a 4" M28 "Highway Patrolman". Bought it specifically because it was an issue revolver on the job at one time. There was a period where the NYSP went through a lot of different revolvers in something like a 20 year span, long before my time of course. The previous owner must have had a truly large hand, or at least bought grips for such a hand. It wears some gigundous smooth maple jobs. Love the look, but I'm short fingered so they aren't real easy to use. Great gun though. I don't think I have ever actually held a 27. I've seen them in display cases but the sticker shock kept me from even thinking about picking it up. And most had longer barrels, not something I'm really a fan of. 4-5" is good for me, but that's just me. I have seen 38/44's but I've never seen any in the fine condition pictured in this thread. Maybe it's just my area, but there are are lot of poorly cared for guns in the places I've shopped.