Show off a creative Vintage Gun shot

glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
Ian, yes! Time is of the essence. Two of them in that photo are new to me. The Kropatschek and the Swiss Vetterli. Those are the ones that look the worst.

I know it's no excuse but I do live in a VERY low humidity environment.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
Mike, I know you're busy but those rifles need help. The rust is likely far worse below the stock line. PLEASE don't go after them with steel wool and WD-40, take them apart, degrease, and boil or steam the metal vigorously for an hour and card it with 6-ought steel wool and/or a soft carding brush. The red rust will come right off leaving a fine rust blue behind which will closely match the original finish. After carding, soak in kerosene overnight, then let drip-dry, lightly oil, and reassemble.
First I have ever heard of that process. Will log that away for future reference.
 

Ian

Notorious member
First I have ever heard of that process. Will log that away for future reference.

This is how you preserve an antique without corrupting the original finish. That brown "patina" all the collectors fawn about is nothing more than active, red RUST that has lots of grime and oil rubbed into it. Where you screw up antique finishes is by going after rust with mechanical or chemical removal methods that alter the surface of all the metal. Converting the red rust to black rust by boiling in water only corrects areas of corrosion, does nothing to worn bare metal or original remaining finish, and does zero damage to lettering, machine/sanding marks, or sharp edges. What the conversion DOES do is stops the rot and leaves bluing where there was active rust before.

Here's a thread where I outlined the process: https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/how-to-restore-rusty-blued-steel.7323/

Link to a post where I did an old Crescent wrench: https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/found-beside-the-road.7602/post-175393
 
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oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
Mark Twain is remembered best for his lies and exaggerations. You can't be all bad in that company!
Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company!

If the "worst" company (other than you clowns/nut jobs/nefarious ner de wells and degenerates, etc!!!!) I get compared or associated with is Twain - I can and will die a VERY HAPPY man! Damned glad to be here, and I needed this! THANX ALL!
 

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
Note on rust/guns/removal/maintenance. My go to for a neglected gun is Brownells Stainless Steel Sponge and Eez-Ox. Removes/inhibits new rust, and the sponge won't remove bluing like steel wool will. And for general maintenance, everyday wipe down, I use a sheep wool pad (refinishing pad) and Eez-Ox. Works for me, and restored more than one with it.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Mike, I know you're busy but those rifles need help. The rust is likely far worse below the stock line. PLEASE don't go after them with steel wool and WD-40, take them apart, degrease, and boil or steam the metal vigorously for an hour and card it with 6-ought steel wool and/or a soft carding brush. The red rust will come right off leaving a fine rust blue behind which will closely match the original finish. After carding, soak in kerosene overnight, then let drip-dry, lightly oil, and reassemble.
Is the boiling/steam to leach out the acids?

ETA, I see the follow up post now. I thought you were speaking to the fact the guns were fire damaged.
 
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Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Note on rust/guns/removal/maintenance. My go to for a neglected gun is Brownells Stainless Steel Sponge and Eez-Ox. Removes/inhibits new rust, and the sponge won't remove bluing like steel wool will. And for general maintenance, everyday wipe down, I use a sheep wool pad (refinishing pad) and Eez-Ox. Works for me, and restored more than one with it.
How hard/long are you rubbing with 4/0 steel wool to actually remove bluing? I've always found it to be more of a polishing effect than seeing any removal, but that may be the difference in the individual using the steel wool.
 

Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Well I’ve got a Winchester 95 in 30 Army made in 1915. It’s a takedown with the Lyman long side sight #21. Great bore, good shooter, but quite used, or abused. The pictures will tell the story better than I can.
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It’s the second from top for you guys not familiar with anything that isn’t a black semi auto or has a crank on the side. LOL. Couldn’t help myself.
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Previous owner must have been trying to lighten things a bit.
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More weight saving work on this side.

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Install a sling stud then figured it added to much weight?
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I think the knucklehead was trying to save weight to make up for this repair. Or putting in the butt stock sling stud broke off the toe.
But fortunately he kept the bore in good shape.
Thought about having it bored out to a 35 WCF or the mighty 405, but, it’s a good shooter in a good caliber.
Besides I have 35’s, 375’s, & 458’s already. Why alter a gun that is already classical in its current life.
 

Missionary

Well-Known Member
Yes! That is a fine 94 !

That is not a "bad looking 95". And with the "climbing Lyman" you really have a useful rifle in a great cast caliber.
I would be looking for a no good TD barrel unit and rebarrel it to 405... That is a fine cartridge in the 95's. We have a jap 95 in 405. Lots of fun.

We have a Win 1886 TD (1923) in 33 Win. After a few years watching found a TD barrel unit in 45-70. A little work and the set is nice to have and easy to haul to the range or visiting.
 
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Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
I always liked the 86 in the light weight 33 and 45-70. Handy light carbines. Basically the extra light weight takedown rifle. Had a couple of 33’s over the years but never a 45-70
 

Dimner

Named Man
Also . . . a safe is NEVER too big or holds too mu
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This is how I would describe this pic:

Old military rifle, Old military rifle, Old military rifle, Old military rifle, Old military rifle, Old military rifle, Old military rifle, Old military carbine, Old military carbine, Old military carbine, zombie apocalypse shotgun, Old military rifle...
 
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Missionary

Well-Known Member
A shooter with my rifle tastes.. My dad was a .69 ML shooter. But it had to be U.S. He was very partial to 1842 Muskets and 1858 Remington Revolvers. He was Navy but sure liked Infantry Muskets. Never go wrong with a well proven Military rifle / carbine.
 

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
How hard/long are you rubbing with 4/0 steel wool to actually remove bluing? I've always found it to be more of a polishing effect than seeing any removal, but that may be the difference in the individual using the steel wool.

On a very bad rust, a bit. I just know that steel wool does/will/can remove bluing. Using the Stainless Sponge, I have not had that problem. Sure if you just kept going, it would. But it is def less than steel wool.
 

Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Anyone else drooling over Johns half octagon/half mag 94?!!! That's a beaut!
Well that’s a 1901 32 SPL and it maybe a half magazine but it’s called a button magazine.
it has a standard barrel sight which I think someone changed out a Smokeless sight and I just happen to have one to put back on. But I like a full rifle in the 92 and 94’s