Trigger Job on a Yugo SKS ?

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
Do you guys think it's worth the cost to send out the trigger group for a trigger job on a Yugo SKS? The first step of the two stage trigger would be removed and the trigger pull reduced to about 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. Wolfe springs would be installed, reducing the hammer strike to 27 1/2 lbs, down from about 33-36 lbs.

The Wolfe spring kit is $11 and the trigger job is $36, both including shipping.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Can a spare trigger be easily procured if it doesn't work out?

If so, the price is sure enticing.

I would say go for it. Not much money for the one thing that can really improve a guns shootability.
 

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
Yeah, SKS trigger parts or whole trigger groups are real easy to get, if needed. Same specs for all the different variants, too.
 
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freebullet

Guest
I cleaned up/polished my rusky sks trigger for free myself. It was definitely worth it. I didn't change the springs but, did polish them with some jewelers rouge.
 

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
That's impressive that you felt confident enough to do it yourself! I just don't feel that I could do as well as a pro. I guess it's not as simple as just polishing surfaces, angles need to be changed and ground just right. The Wolfe springs are supposed to reduce the trigger pull by about an additional 1 lb after polishing. The Wolfe hammer spring will reduce the rifles "jump" or bounce from the striker hit.
 
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freebullet

Guest
I wouldn't make any claim on mine being as good as a pro and, the price you mentioned is good.
I'm a bit finiky about triggers. I guess that's made me learn more about how to fix them myself when I can. Nothing wrong with having the pro do it or even using drop ins when possible.
 
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freebullet

Guest
Mines more accurate than I can be with opens sights. Still has a bit more overtravel than I care for. Might add an adjustable stop to cure that. I've done/had done on many and it helps me shoot better.

I'm planning to fit one of those bolt covers with a rail to get an optic on it without any permanent mods.
 

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
I'd strongly suggest you don't use that type of scope mount. They rattle all over the place. You think you have it fit just right but, it still rattles. I've almost tried them all! The B-Square mount is no longer available but, was the only one that was OK without mods. It replaced the cover latch with a thru bolt and had set screws in the back that tightened to the cover. It had to be removed to clean the action, though.

The best I've found is a ProMag side mount that's drilled and tapped on the left side of the receiver. It goes over the cover and allows you to still use your iron sights. This thing doesn't move at all and it's made very rugged. You still need to use a short scope so the empties can fly past it.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/467746/promag-sks-picatinny-rail-scope-mount-steel

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEAPERS-UTG...758580?hash=item4af70325f4:g:6ioAAOSwZG9WkcKQ

Other than that, the Tech Sight TS-100 or TS200 aperture sight is great! It mounts similar to the B-Square scope mount. Shot my best groups yet using the TS100 sight. The only difference between the two models is the TS200 is windage adjustable.

http://www.tech-sights.com/sks.htm
 
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freebullet

Guest
Hmmm, I've heard a lot of complaints about the one I mentioned. Not a good sign for my plan.

I really don't want any permanent mods on this one. It's a decent looking specimen. Maybe could change the top wood to something that would take a pistol scope. I dunno.
 
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freebullet

Guest
Now that's interesting. Like a saddle mount on a shotgun almost. It's a bit pricey but, I might just have to try one.

A local friend may have the top cover mount I could at least try, if he can find it. If I could get a scope mounted it would get used more.

Have you sent your trigger to be done or still thinking on it?
 

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
I'm going to do it. Just waiting now for the Wolfe springs to arrive to send everything out together. Decided that at that price, I'd have both of my Yugo triggers done. I notice that when shooting from the bags, I have to really, really concentrate to get off a clean shot. This should cut down on a lot of flyers and tighten things up. I have after market Timney Deluxe triggers on most of my other rifles. Some, I've stoned/polished on my own.

The load I'm using now is the NOE 314-160 Harris design over 21.0 gr Reloader #7 for about 2" groups at 50 yards.
 
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freebullet

Guest
I've been running the lee 155 w/16-18gr of 4227. Need a scope before I do more with it. I have the hm2 Harris & would like to use those too.
My home trigger job shrunk Jax groups by 2.5" back before my cataracts & surgery. I bet you'll do well with a professional job.
 
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freebullet

Guest
How'd the trigger turn out?

I've got my entire sks torn apart/ strewn about for refinishing. I pulled it out for the second time since my eyes were fixed and looked it over good. Found some major issues with the stock I couldn't see before and began fixing everything.

I'm thinking of going with the molot side mount. I don't really want to drill my receiver but, I've had to make some repairs/mods anyway. I would like to retain the ability to use stripper clips. I'm looking at that side mount and probably a short little 3x nikon with a bdc reticle.

I went full retard on my trigger group. It's now adjustable and the best I've ever felt on an sks.
 

yodogsandman

Well-Known Member
The guy said he would take out almost all of the first stage of the pull....it still has at least 1/8" of the first stage.

He said he would reduce the trigger pull to between 2 1/2 to 3 lbs and that seems about right.

He did install both Wolfe springs from the kit.

What I didn't expect was that the second stage is sloppier now. The take up is again about 1/8" and the over travel is horrible. I don't remember having any take up or very little at most after the initial first stage.

First initial shooting test produced a 1"x3 1/2" group at 50 yards using the load above. First try with the new front rest, too.

DO NOT GET YOUR TRIGGER DONE BY THIS GUY! YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!

freebullet, Do you have a photo of the adjustment you put on your trigger? Sounds like I need to go full retard, too!
 
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freebullet

Guest
I don't have one but, it's still out of the gun so I'll take some and share in detail what I did later tonight when I'm home.

When I did mine and realized just how much work it would take to fix it right I wondered how yours turned out. Iirc I removed around .645" of trigger movement from mine. Yep I actually measured it all out to see what was necessary to make it better. I originally did what he did for you minus the springs and found it lacking as well.