Trigger Job on a Yugo SKS ?

[yodogsandman]

I'd describe his work as amateur! I might have to buy a few extra sears and try it myself. Plenty of direction on the net to go by, I guess.

I forgot to mention that it took 3 weeks to get the triggers back from him.

freebullet, I'm sure your work on your trigger would make a great thread! Can't wait to read it!

 

[freebullet]

This is my 54 tula rusky trigger group. At the rear above the trigger you'll find the little aluminum doodad I made.
I'd like to clarify- I'm not a gunsmith nor do I play one on tv. In addition I don't have any precision machining equipment at all.
I made the part by hand with a dremel/various bits, a couple files, and a battery drill.

 

[freebullet]

As you can see I really do not care for sloppy nasty triggers.


So this little hand fitted gizmo is only part of the sks trigger solution.
You can see how that little part goes down between the trigger guard rails to be pinned in. It can't go to deep or it'll hit the trigger and the saftey. It can't be to long or it causes interference with the saftey and the trigger group retainer clip.

You can't adjust out all of the pre travel slop with just this part until you cure another underlying issue. The sear stops that are part of the frame on trigger guard are in the way. They are needed but, much to large and in the way to allow for the very best possible trigger.

 

[freebullet]

What that feller likely did was polish/ shorten the sear & hammer engagement surfaces and put in your new springs. It's better but, not the entire key.

I'm not looking to get into those basics here. If you check out utoob there are many vids about disassembly of the tg. The pins were in omg that's the third punch I broke tight. I hand sanded them down to be light hammer fit. No broken punches necessary now.

If you do want to go full retard as I've done-

Make that little part, pin it in, drill/ tap the holes. I used 1/8" pin to hold the adjuster in. The overtravel screw is 6-32 & 3/4" long. The pre travel slop removal screw is 4-40 &1/2" long.

Then remove the sear file down the sear stops in the tg frame until they look more like mine, close to the sear at full stop but not below the sears face. That will allow you to remove the pre travel slop to the fullest extent with your screw adjustment. The little window on the left side of the tg frame is where you can actually see the trigger leg and sear junction.

Now by doing this part to the sear stops we are really getting somewhere. Where? To the point the saftey interferes with the trigger. The sharp forward edge of the saftey will need filed to clear the trigger in its new resting position farther rearward than the rusky children could manage.

I did not remove the trigger, the disconnect, or the saftey for this process.

Then clean & blue it all so you can see how it wears in for future tunning. I used red loctite on my adjustment screws. I've never had it fail and the bond can be broken at about 500° if removal is necessary. Figured I could remove the whole adjustable unit & touch it in my melt if I need to re-adjust.

As you can see in one pic the I drilled a hole at the rear of the trigger guard assembly. That's because I bedded a pillar through the stock to connect the action & trigger group with/through the stock.
My numbers matching stock had 4 cracks around the barrel lug bolt and was all splintered because someone turned the screw which, is not how it's removed.
To salvage it rather than go plastic/laminate I cleaned it all up and bedded the front and rear with the rear having a pillar bedded through providing a rock solid straight bedded action vs. The splintered, wobbly, & cracked nonsense I'd discovered in it.

The action doesn't wobble or move now. The trigger is nice. The stock will be done soon. Hope to get a scope mounted after its completely done.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

 

[freebullet]

I'll add a couple more here-

In this pic you'll see my index finger holding down the disconnect.
In the next pic you'll see the window and lowered position of the trigger leg to sear interface. I'll bet if you look at any standard sks that gap is WAY bigger and almost 2/3 of the sks trigger slop issues.

 

[yodogsandman]

WOW! Ingenious!

 

[freebullet]

Thank you.
It took some time and determination to get it done. I'll admit the first little aluminum part didn't turn out as well. The design is a bit different. I made a small mistake in making the first one. It could be made usable but, when I had the idea for the second unit as pictured I abandoned the first design.

There are at least 3 different sks trigger groups that I'm aware of. One doesn't have the stops built into the tg frame. It has a little removable part for that function. Another uses a different saftey spring.
If yours is same as mine I'd send you the first one. It needs a bit of dremel milling and threaded. Would be easier to complete my first prototype than start from scratch if you can handle it.

You had mentioned how the overtravel almost seemed worse after the trigger job he did. That tells us he probably shortened the sear to hammer engagement already.
With the sks trigger design it creates more overtravel when you do the standard trigger job because the trigger lets go sooner in the pull after that process thereby creating more rearward movement after the hammer falls.