30-30 311440 mold dimensions question
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Chris
Well-Known Member
Back to putting your theory into practice with my non-existent throat. How about this one, set the drive bands to .311 and it could ride the bore if nose were sized to .302. The large forward drive band is strong and I could crimp into it wherever good fit is using a Lee FCD.
accuratemolds.com
Bullet Design Details | Accurate Molds
accuratemolds.com
Ian
Notorious member
Parallel noses in a levergun are iffy due to lack of camming action. As I mentioned earlier, parallel bore-riding noses in conjuction with a relatively short, tapered cartridge such as the .30-30 is a recipe for crooked bullets.
The 31-170F will fit your rifle with no drama and should shoot well for you. Order it exactly like the drawing states with .310" bands and "plus" tolerance. Lightly crimped in the groove (mouth just tucked flush under the rear end of the nose bearing surface to prevent the bullet telescoping), the bolt should just "snick" closed on a loaded round and not de-bullet.
If you don't like the bullet after you mess with it, I'll happily buy the mould from you for what you paid for it.
The 31-170F will fit your rifle with no drama and should shoot well for you. Order it exactly like the drawing states with .310" bands and "plus" tolerance. Lightly crimped in the groove (mouth just tucked flush under the rear end of the nose bearing surface to prevent the bullet telescoping), the bolt should just "snick" closed on a loaded round and not de-bullet.
If you don't like the bullet after you mess with it, I'll happily buy the mould from you for what you paid for it.
Rally
NC Minnesota
Can't tell you anything about Accurate moulds as I've never had one, but from looking at the shape of the bullet on their website, Ian's pointing to the 311-170F is a good place to start.
When I was looking for the same moulds for my Marlins, I got on the Marlin site and PM'ed Ranch dog and he stated the squarer shorter nose, like the first you listed were made for the Winchesters, and the longer nose like the 311-170F for the Marlins. From that, I ordered the NOE 311-165-RF (RD) in an RG4 Brass, and couldn't be happier, shoots like a dream in all my Marlins sized .311. Mine has the shallow TL design, which I fill full of Ben's Red. I'm running them at 1850 Fps with Reloader 7, also a pointer from Ian.
I am tickled pink with the Dimple Points performance, so ordered another mould in 5 cavity aluminum, NOE SC-311-165-RF, which is for the Winchesters and doesn't shoot well in any of my Marlins! I ordered the second mould thinking I could leave the first RG4 model set up with the dimple point pins and use the second mould for flat points. At the time NOE was taking the listings for the moulds they were out of, off their website and the second mould I ordered was only slightly different in their listing, and evidently I got the last 311-165-RF-(RD), at that time.
To add to the confusion, there have been at least 5 versions of the RD moulds made that I'm aware of, so be careful when ordering one to fit your Marlin.
When I was looking for the same moulds for my Marlins, I got on the Marlin site and PM'ed Ranch dog and he stated the squarer shorter nose, like the first you listed were made for the Winchesters, and the longer nose like the 311-170F for the Marlins. From that, I ordered the NOE 311-165-RF (RD) in an RG4 Brass, and couldn't be happier, shoots like a dream in all my Marlins sized .311. Mine has the shallow TL design, which I fill full of Ben's Red. I'm running them at 1850 Fps with Reloader 7, also a pointer from Ian.
I am tickled pink with the Dimple Points performance, so ordered another mould in 5 cavity aluminum, NOE SC-311-165-RF, which is for the Winchesters and doesn't shoot well in any of my Marlins! I ordered the second mould thinking I could leave the first RG4 model set up with the dimple point pins and use the second mould for flat points. At the time NOE was taking the listings for the moulds they were out of, off their website and the second mould I ordered was only slightly different in their listing, and evidently I got the last 311-165-RF-(RD), at that time.
To add to the confusion, there have been at least 5 versions of the RD moulds made that I'm aware of, so be careful when ordering one to fit your Marlin.
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
I have the NOE 165 RD mold myself. Its a good mold for me. The deep hp
Shoots very well in my blackouts cast in 20:1 @ 1350 preforms remarkably. Oddly it would NOT shoot from my Contender carbine barrel!!
My new to me 1950 Savage 340 seems to like the bullet in cup and HP styles. Also the LEE 170 RD shoots just as nicely.
I do not have the LEE mold. So not finding one for a long time looking. I ordered a Arsenal 311-170 rd. Im hoping to see it soon.
Great information. (As always)
CW
Shoots very well in my blackouts cast in 20:1 @ 1350 preforms remarkably. Oddly it would NOT shoot from my Contender carbine barrel!!
My new to me 1950 Savage 340 seems to like the bullet in cup and HP styles. Also the LEE 170 RD shoots just as nicely.
I do not have the LEE mold. So not finding one for a long time looking. I ordered a Arsenal 311-170 rd. Im hoping to see it soon.
Great information. (As always)
CW
Rally
NC Minnesota
Been there Lamar! Drove 28 miles to check some under ice beaver snares on a seven hour snowmobile line. Got out to put my snowmobile clothes on and realized I’d left my boots at home! I considered just wearing the leather half boots I used to drI’ve there, but experience(Lol) said that wouldn’t be a good idea.
With a base length of 0.60 and 0.5 in the neck, 0.2 meplat and whatever radii of the ogive, no crimp and LG below the neck (like 31-156C?) it will be similar to the FTX I load and shoots well. Going heavier increases the nose length or pushed the GC base into the shoulder area.