32-20 Revolver - Experience/Recommendations Pls

[oscarflytyer]

OK - figured I might as well just start a new thread... I AM going to end up with a 32-20 revolver one way or 'tother! Looking at and bidding on some on GB. Hopefully will end up with a SA - my first love and first choice. But may also get a nice old used but not abused Colt or S&W DA (my FIL had one that is way past being a shooter - would be nice to have same model tho). Or BOTH if prices are right... Seems like the time, as everyone's attention is presently elsewhere!

I will shoot only cast. Magnus has 100 grn and 118 grn commercials if I want/need them to get started, at great prices -and local to me! Would like to go with a Lyman 311008/Ideal3118 115grn mold. Might also get a cheap 2C Lee 100 grn RN mold. Prob Lee dies, but maybe RCBS Cowboy dies. New Starline brass.

So.. all ye who have/shoot/cast/reload for 32-20 revolvers... What do I need to know - other than the Kool Aid stuff that they are hard to load for 'cause bottleneck case/have to lube/etc. Not skeered in that dept, as I already load for 44-40 and it is really not that big a deal, just a tad different.

 

[Brad]

Not a revolver but my 32-20 Marlin gets fed a steady diet of a 120 RNFP over 5 gr of Unique. Plenty fast for me, accurate, and just works.
Watch cylinder throats size, if too small get them opened.

Should be easy to get to shoot well. Great cartridge.

 

[RicinYakima]

PM me your email address and I will send you an article I wrote for the CBA a few years ago, plus an updated one with Ed Harris editing it.

 

[oscarflytyer]

Brad - that combo of 115-120 grn cast bullet and ~5 grns Unique seems like a real sweet spot from my research. Have also had good luck with HP 38 in the old stuff (45 Colt/44 WCF/38 SPC) with cast. Prob try it too. Thanx!

 

[Bret4207]

Personally, I will never part with my Lyman 311316 for the 32-20 or the 358156 for 357. Yeah, the GC is a pain and they're expensive these days, but the darn things shoot SOOOOOOOO GOOOOOD!!!!! Maybe there's a PB design out there that does as well but I haven't found it. If you're getting an older gun make sure your mould drops them in the .314+ area. I had some commercial "32-20" bullets (Lazer something maybe? I forget but they were advertised as "hardcast!!!", like that means anything) that were a disaster at .312 in both a rifle and revolver. The GB Soup Can mould I have is too skinny too. Shoots fantastic in my K-32 though. You know to watch the case necks and make sure the case is all the way into the shell holder with no powder granules throwing things off. Starlines brass is 10x better than Win/Rem. I storngly suggest reading up on Ken Waters 32-20 articles in "Pet Loads". He pretty much nailed it as far as I can see. We can improve things a bit by using better cast options than he did, but his recommendations on powders are dead on.

I have a few boxes of 32-20 jacketed bullets. 85's and 100 gr. Not needed or very darn useful in the 32-20 IMO, be it revolver or rifle. The one place they work is in an old rifle I have where the rifling is more of a suggestion than fact. Takes 10 inch patterns with cast and turns them into 4" groups at 50 yards. Really need to buy a barrel for that Marlin. I did play with taking the 85 gr HP's up into the 2200fps area in a rifle,as in the old "Hi Speed" rounds. Not really useful when I got there. Not really enough bullet and too much drop/drift for large varmints and too much speed for small game. An answer in search of a question.

Oh! And watch your case length. Not only do the 32-20 case sometimes grow, but sometimes they shrink! Don't ask me how or why, but I've seen 3x fired brass that was shorter than unfired brass out of the same bag and had other brass out of the same loading session that grew. No clue what's going on there, but I trimmed it back to the shortest one and that stopped it so far. I think Waters tuned me onto that also.

 

[Brad]

I have a 311316 mould and rarely use it. Mine drops at .311 and doesn't do well n a rifle that wants a .313 bullet.
My go to bullet is the first Lee GB I ever got in on. It was actually an extra Willbird had on hand so I bought it. Works so well I just don't need anything else.

 

[Eutectic]

Saami allows case length of the .32-20 to vary...... 1.315" - .040" Why so much? Who knows. They need updates in a lot of areas IMO. Starline and WW run fairly close to each other around 1.285"...... Rem, Peters and RP are longer at 1.300" - 1.305" Older Western brass I have is also 1.305". Older chambers can vary making fired length differences. For revolvers and crimping a uniform length is needed. I would recommend Starline brass. It is much stronger as well than older draws by either WW or RP.

Pete

 

[oscarflytyer]

OK - sounds like this will be about like the 32-40! Or 45 Colt depending on what gun you are shooting it in! I load 44-40, and also 45 Colt for two diff guns - Uberti clone and Ruger BH. Either way, appreciate ALL the feedback/info/help/advice. Oh, and I have Waters' full Pet Loads book! And Sharpe's book, yet to check for advice there... Don't be shy - keep it coming!

 

[Bret4207]

Phil Sharpe! Quite a book that one.

 

[oscarflytyer]

Update. Gun is purchased (at least first one!). S&W 5" Hand Ejector (think it is similar/close to Glen's "Preacher's Gun!"). Have to look at serial, but guessing late '20s/early '30s. Starline brass and Lee dies and factory crimp on the way ( I like to at least start there with dies) - if it doesn't work out, I will go with Ric's RCBS Cowboy recommendation.

Now for a mold(s). I would prefer PB, so looking at Lyman 3118. Thought I was going to pick up a 311316 on ebay, but went high. I can buy the 311316 and 3118 bullets cast/lube (Western Bullet). May try that before I commit to a mold. Really want to get the gun and determine throats. But then can be a crap shoot getting a mold that drop matches throat size. I figure a 3118 cast with 20:1/30:1 should drop "big" and also obturate to fill the bore... Only time will tell... Will start with Unique and HP38 (unless I find old AL-5 data - of which I have powder!)

And then, keep seeing the Colt Police Positive Specials... Goofed off or would have had one off GB cheap also. Will keep an eye out and maybe get lucky. For some reason this is thrilling me to no end. And unusual, as I typically am not interested unless it is a "thumb bore!"

 

[Dale53]

oscarflytyer;
"The Fouling Shot" (magazine of the Cast Bullet Association) has an excellent article in the November-December 2017 issue (Journal No. 250, on some of the pitfalls of loading the 32/20. The Handloader Magazine has some excellent articles over the years, too.

The 32/20 can be an excellent cartridge. However, it is an OLD cartridge and suffers from the lack of "standards" in chambers, throats, etc. It was produced many years before SAAMI even existed. The brass is thin and easily damaged when loading. However, with some good information in hand, you can minimize the problems and maximize the pleasure of using this cartridge.

I am a fan of the .32 S&W Long and the .32 H&R Magnum. The power levels overlap between these and the .32/20 (and a very useful level of possibilities, to be sure). I deliberately stayed away from the .32/20 over the years just to make my life a bit simpler. However, I have several friends who were NOT daunted by the perceived problems. As a result, I have learned a bit about the solutions to some of the problems and have some good information in my digital files.

Send me your email address by Private Message, and I'll forward you a couple of good articles on getting good results with the various platforms that the 32/20 was produced (both rifles and pistols).

Handled properly, the 32/20 is a very useful and pleasant cartridge to cast, reload, and shoot.

Dale53

 

[pokute]

You can shoot 32 long in the 32-20. The bullet will rattle around in the throat, the gas will escape past it (kind of a farting noise), the bullet will come out at about 300 fps, and will shoot 1" groups at 25 yards that way. At least that's how my 1919 HE worked ;^)

It's very hard on the brass that way, however.

 

[Dale53]

Oscarflytier;
My face is RED! Somehow, I missed Ric’s post above. His article is the exact one I was going to send you. It is a DANDY!

Sorry, Ric,
Dale53

 

[Glen]

http://www.lasc.us/FryxellPreachersGun.htm

 

[oscarflytyer]

Oscarflytier;
My face is RED! Somehow, I missed Ric’s post above. His article is the exact one I was going to send you. It is a DANDY!
Sorry, Ric,
Dale53

http://www.lasc.us/FryxellPreachersGun.htm

LMAO! You Guys are THE BEST!!!!
Dale - yes - Ric has been more than helpful - sent 3 articles! Still appreciate your offer. and disregard my pm!
Glen - Thanx! I already pulled that article from LASC! And I want to compare my serial # to yours when it arrives. Think it is very close!

B/N Ric and Glenn, also why I am looking at the 311316 and 3118 molds. Leaning towards the 3118/311008 non-GC if I can find one. But have found clone molds. I would prefer a vintage one to match the gun. Maybe will get lucky.

 

[Bret4207]

If you're going to push the 32-20, the 311316 is the way to go IME. Maybe the GC makes up for a lack of standardization as mentioned above, but it works great in almost everything and is a dandy very light 30 cal design too.

 

[oscarflytyer]

If you're going to push the 32-20, the 311316 is the way to go IME. Maybe the GC makes up for a lack of standardization as mentioned above, but it works great in almost everything and is a dandy very light 30 cal design too.

Bret - I have less than 0 desire to push it in a revolver. This one, and any vintage 32-20 revolver that accompanies it (old Colt Police Positive hopefully!), will be nothing more than a pure unadulterated FUN gun! Basically a cheap(er to shoot than 22!) CF cast bullet revolver!

I really would PREFER to stay away from a GC bullet. Would like heavier/nothing less than 100 grn. In the 800-950 range. 20/30:1 to WW+2%tin. Prob Unique and done. Cast to throat size. May go my usual route and just start with a cheap Lee and beagle if needed... And hopefully the Lee dies will work.

Waiting on the gun. 500 Starline brass, Lee dies, Lee crimp die and length trimmer arrived. Now need the gun. AND bullets to get started or a mold to cast.

 

[Bret4207]

If you're dead set against the GC, and I understand why completely, then you might look into the custom copies of the 311008. Why not a Lyman? Because a lot of Lymans are going to drop them at .311-.313 and my experience says you will need at least .314. You might be lucky and get a slightly "fat" 008 and a tight Smith. Pretty fair chance of it, but if you get a skinny 008 it'll drive ya nuts. FWIW, stay away from the Lymans with the "U" or "S" prefixes. I have a couple and they run skinny.

 

[oscarflytyer]

"custom copies of the 311008"

Recommendations? NOE? others? No experience to date with any of these.

And I can never remember the size diffs b/n alloys... Pure lead drops the largest and shrinks as you migrate through the alloys towards Linotype? Or do I have that backwards?

 

[Brad]

That is backwards, lead shrinks the most.
An NOE version of the 311008 should drop plenty large. They may even list a 312 or 313 version which will likely drop closer to 315.