Pistolero
Well-Known Member
For seriously tarnished brass, tumbling can take forever, and on the old site there was a very fruitful discusson
of using chemical means to clean the tarnish without risking damaging the brass, and without dangerous and toxic
chemicals, or hard to find stuff. What a lot of us settled on, based on the replacement of nitric acid cleaning of SS
to "passivate" it before final use with citric acid (which is a huge portion of lemonade, you can literally drink it safely)
was to use citric acid. Various sources were discussed from canning suppliers to health food stores and finally
Lemishine, a dishwasher additive powder readily available at grocery stores. I got a huge bunch of new
but tarnished LC brass a while back and tried tumbling a test batch and it wasn't cleaning up real quickly, so I broke
out the Lemishine and cleaned 100 cases to really shiny in about 10 minuts in just enough warm water to cover
and about 1/2-3/4 teaspoon of Lemishine. The neat thing is that you can stick you hands in it, or even spill a bit
here and there with no harm. It reverses the oxidation reaction so it does not remove material. It turns
out that when cartridge brass oxidizes, the copper part of the alloy goes to brown copper oxide (like a penny),
but the zinc part (30%) oxidizes and apparently just goes away. When you reverse the oxidation, you get
a nice pinkish copper sheen to the oxidized parts, VERY thin, tumbles off in 10 minutes with a capful of Nu Finish
car wax in a tumbler full of corncob media. Brass is spectacular when done.
So - now to the "other use". I will bet that pretty much all of us have a host of small gasoline engines around,
and the darned ethanol in the gas causes the carbs to corrode up internally if you leave fuel in it over the winter.
I have gotten quite good at pulling down th e carbs, cleaning out the corrosion and crud and getting them back
running. However, a few times it has taken quite a bit of cleaning, maybe twice or more to get the
carb running correctly. Of course the correct solution is to drain the carb entirely, including the fuel remaining
in the bowl after it "runs out of gas", and/or use Stabil, and/or use no-ethanol gas. But I screw up and forget occasionally.
After trying to start the snowblower a couple weeks back, prepping for snow, it wouldn't light off, even though
I was certain that I ran it out of fuel at the end of last season. I pulled the carb off (real PITA on that one) and
of course it had been left with about 3/4" of fuel remaining in the bowl and the bowl was corroded as was
the main jet. OK, managed to worry out the bass jet and it was plugged solid. Poked it out with wire, cleaned
up everything else, reassembled and it started right away. BUT it really wouldn't stay running for more than 1
minute if I took the choke off all the way. Run fine with 1/4 choke, but that isn't right. So, pulled off the bowl,
pulled the jet and it looked fine. So I was thinking that I may need to drill it out a touch to enrich the mixture.
I used pin gauges to measure the hole at .030", and decided to calculate what size I needed to increase fuel
flow by 10%. I was surprised to know that .0014 increase in diameter would increase the fuel flow by 10%!
This got the gears turning and I wondered how thick the obvious brown tarnish on the jet really was?
Maybe .0014?
Took a cat food can, put in 1/4 tsp of Lemishine and filled with water an put on gas stove to heat. Dropped
the jet in and let it come to a boil, took off heat an put aside to cool for 15 minutes. Jet was sparkling.
Put it back in -- no need for choke, runs great, starts on first pull.
Keep this trick in mind. I have another engine, on my pressure washer that is doing the same trick after
carb cleaning 3 times. The main jet will get a Lemishine boil out in the springtime before house cleaning time.
Bill
of using chemical means to clean the tarnish without risking damaging the brass, and without dangerous and toxic
chemicals, or hard to find stuff. What a lot of us settled on, based on the replacement of nitric acid cleaning of SS
to "passivate" it before final use with citric acid (which is a huge portion of lemonade, you can literally drink it safely)
was to use citric acid. Various sources were discussed from canning suppliers to health food stores and finally
Lemishine, a dishwasher additive powder readily available at grocery stores. I got a huge bunch of new
but tarnished LC brass a while back and tried tumbling a test batch and it wasn't cleaning up real quickly, so I broke
out the Lemishine and cleaned 100 cases to really shiny in about 10 minuts in just enough warm water to cover
and about 1/2-3/4 teaspoon of Lemishine. The neat thing is that you can stick you hands in it, or even spill a bit
here and there with no harm. It reverses the oxidation reaction so it does not remove material. It turns
out that when cartridge brass oxidizes, the copper part of the alloy goes to brown copper oxide (like a penny),
but the zinc part (30%) oxidizes and apparently just goes away. When you reverse the oxidation, you get
a nice pinkish copper sheen to the oxidized parts, VERY thin, tumbles off in 10 minutes with a capful of Nu Finish
car wax in a tumbler full of corncob media. Brass is spectacular when done.
So - now to the "other use". I will bet that pretty much all of us have a host of small gasoline engines around,
and the darned ethanol in the gas causes the carbs to corrode up internally if you leave fuel in it over the winter.
I have gotten quite good at pulling down th e carbs, cleaning out the corrosion and crud and getting them back
running. However, a few times it has taken quite a bit of cleaning, maybe twice or more to get the
carb running correctly. Of course the correct solution is to drain the carb entirely, including the fuel remaining
in the bowl after it "runs out of gas", and/or use Stabil, and/or use no-ethanol gas. But I screw up and forget occasionally.
After trying to start the snowblower a couple weeks back, prepping for snow, it wouldn't light off, even though
I was certain that I ran it out of fuel at the end of last season. I pulled the carb off (real PITA on that one) and
of course it had been left with about 3/4" of fuel remaining in the bowl and the bowl was corroded as was
the main jet. OK, managed to worry out the bass jet and it was plugged solid. Poked it out with wire, cleaned
up everything else, reassembled and it started right away. BUT it really wouldn't stay running for more than 1
minute if I took the choke off all the way. Run fine with 1/4 choke, but that isn't right. So, pulled off the bowl,
pulled the jet and it looked fine. So I was thinking that I may need to drill it out a touch to enrich the mixture.
I used pin gauges to measure the hole at .030", and decided to calculate what size I needed to increase fuel
flow by 10%. I was surprised to know that .0014 increase in diameter would increase the fuel flow by 10%!
This got the gears turning and I wondered how thick the obvious brown tarnish on the jet really was?
Maybe .0014?
Took a cat food can, put in 1/4 tsp of Lemishine and filled with water an put on gas stove to heat. Dropped
the jet in and let it come to a boil, took off heat an put aside to cool for 15 minutes. Jet was sparkling.
Put it back in -- no need for choke, runs great, starts on first pull.
Keep this trick in mind. I have another engine, on my pressure washer that is doing the same trick after
carb cleaning 3 times. The main jet will get a Lemishine boil out in the springtime before house cleaning time.
Bill
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